Well since the 700r4 that was mounted to the olds 350 that's in my 442 is gone, it is now time to start doing the manual swap. The main reason I'm posting this is because I need some help, Id like to know what the easiest clutch pedal assembly to use is. That is really the main thing, but id also like to hear anything you guys would like to suggest if you have experience in this swap. Such as pilot bearings on an olds 350 crank, any machining that should be done, bolt patterns and mounting of the shifter. Thanks for your help guys.
t-56 swap help
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If using an gen 1 small block. You need a t56 out of an lt1 f-body. Ls1 t56 wont work. You need an adapter so the chevy bolt pattern of the trans will fit the olds motor. You also need a cross-member, and a converter box to get the cable speedo to work. I have only seen one coversion, and they used the pedals and hydros out of a lt1 f-body. You can get the cross-member and adapter from crossmembers.com , and speedo adapter from dakotadigital.com
Thanks for your help, the Speedo converter was something else i was wondering, as for the adapter plate,i made one a couple years ago when i first mounted the 700r4 to it so I'm sure i could do one for the t56. Also i made a custom crossmember that i can cut out and adjust accordingly to the t56. Thanks again.
If you use an aftermarket bellhousing you can use either an LT1 or LS1 trans, the LS1 trans being the preferred because of the longer input shaft.
On my conversion I used the hydraulic setup out of an LS1 F-body with an aftermarket hydraulic throwout bearing. For a clutch pedal I bought one from John Bzdel that is designed to bolt to the stock auto pedal assembly after trimming down the brake pedal pad and has the correct geometry to work with the LS1 hydraulics.
I ended up removing the stock braided line from the LS1 hydraulic master cylinder and built my own from -3 or -4AN line and fittings with a special adapter fitting from Earls to fit into the LS1 hydraulic cylinder.
As far as drilling for a pilot bearing/bushing you'll have to determine whether or not your stock Olds crank was already drilled for a manual transmission. If it was then you're set. If not then there are adapter bearings out there that fit into the torque converter recess in the crank and you either drill the crank out for clearance of the input shaft or you cut the input shaft.
In my case I was rebuilding the engine at the same time and had the crank machined for a regular bearing/bushing.
So far the setup works really well.
On my conversion I used the hydraulic setup out of an LS1 F-body with an aftermarket hydraulic throwout bearing. For a clutch pedal I bought one from John Bzdel that is designed to bolt to the stock auto pedal assembly after trimming down the brake pedal pad and has the correct geometry to work with the LS1 hydraulics.
I ended up removing the stock braided line from the LS1 hydraulic master cylinder and built my own from -3 or -4AN line and fittings with a special adapter fitting from Earls to fit into the LS1 hydraulic cylinder.
As far as drilling for a pilot bearing/bushing you'll have to determine whether or not your stock Olds crank was already drilled for a manual transmission. If it was then you're set. If not then there are adapter bearings out there that fit into the torque converter recess in the crank and you either drill the crank out for clearance of the input shaft or you cut the input shaft.
In my case I was rebuilding the engine at the same time and had the crank machined for a regular bearing/bushing.
So far the setup works really well.
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