The Steps To Body Work and Paint Prep

[dan2286]

I wasn't planning on using lacquer paint, I was wondering if it could be painted over the old paint which I believed used lacquer as a clear coat. What ever was used for the clear coat has all faded off.

Here is a pic of pretty much what the hole car looks like,

 

[350_85cutty]

lacquer paint is single stage, no clear or hardener involed, just some good ol' lacquer and paint lol....as long as the paints not lacquer checked, meaning the finish has lil cracks in it, usually all lacquer jobs have this on them, mainly on the Hood, Trunk, and Roofs, mostly where the sun beat down on them the most, in that case, like i did, you gotta take it to bare metal, get all that lacquer checked paint off...no good if you paint or primer over that, it will eventually lift...then you epoxy the bare metal like i said b4....if your not seeing any checked paint, you can DA the whole car in 180, then follow with 320, then shoot your primer. The epoxy is a thick primer, so epoxied right over after i hit the whole car with 180, IMO that gives it a harder bite, than with 320, but most ppl like to 320 before they prime...so yes, you can epoxy prime over the existing paint

 

[Caballero]

cool thread, I'm going to start painting some of my cars including my Caballero

 

[79malibu350]

in the late 80's they did develop a clear system for laquer, i actually just used the last of what the old man had to paint a racing lawn mower candy apple red. you'll know thats what you've got if you start sanding on you car and the top coat gets really powdery and white, and smells like an old box of crayons. that crap was nasty. and if your car does have laquer paint on it, and you start sanding and it looks like its not the original, most guys i know would always recommend stripping it down to bare metal and starting all over. its not worth the potential adhesion problems.

 

[Silent viewer]

you shouldnt have to strip the laquer as long as you use the 2k/epoxy primer. stripping its ideal if you are going for a show finish but we have sanded the laquer down so its all smooth than shot the epoxy over it and that will prevent the laquer from screwing with the new paint. the suggested kustom shop exopy and eastwood is a good cheap primer to use and it actually seals the car so you dont have to worry about it sucking in moisture.

wet sanding bondo? i am not sure about that, it is pretty much fiberglass resin but i would disagree with wet sanding... i could be wrong on that one but i wouldnt suggest it

 

[79malibu350]

you NEVER want to wetsand bondo. just like someone said i didnt look back at the name but it doesn't seal water out, if it gets wet thats game over as far as rust prevention is concerned.

 

[MrHernandez]

Another helpful tip.....15-20 minutes before you pull the car in to paint spray the floor and walls with a hose, dont have to drench it just get it wet, helps keep dust down :wink:

 

[tc1959]

40 to 50 $100 dollar bills should make it look show room fresh again :wink:

 

[cutty651]

thanks for posting this article it is very motivating to me i am new to this forum and i have a 1981 cutlass calais with t-tops and i took off the vinyl top and replaced it with chrome trim from a non vinyl parts cutlass i got and was just wondering if you new how the clips that hold the trim on are put back in since their are no rivits to hold the clips in what do i use and i was wondering what is the best paint gun setup for a first timer and air compressor thank you please help.

 

[Wildmani]

Great info! This has me toying with the idea of prepping my car for paint myself. I have a few questions though.
1) I have a decent sized compressor and when I bought it it came with a spray gun. I thought I read somewhere that you need to have an air dryer for it though, is this true? I don't plan on doing the paint myself, just the prep. Or would I be better using rattle can primer?
2) I have one hole in the 1/4 panel (that I know of), stupid question, but it's obviously better to have a new panel welded in rather than filling it right? I'm no welder so can I cut out the spot, prime around it, and have the body shop weld in a panel?
3) I'd like to do this over the winter so it can be ready for a spring or summer visit to the body shop. My garage is unheated, how cold is too cold to use filler, primer, etc? (I live in Canada by the way lol!)

Thanks.