Tools needed:
Pulley puller/installer. This can be the Kent Moore/GM tools, or a kit you can "borrow" from Auto Zone, etc.
1. Plain old 18mm impact socket for the two pump retaining bolts (or regular sockets, but you really need to put it in a vise if using a regular socket). The threads are M10 x 1.5 just for reference.
2. A 1" impact socket for the high pressure fitting
3. Small diameter punch set
4. Medium flat blade screwdriver
5. Deadblow or solid soft-faced hammer (you may need to whack stuff to get it to give up)
6. Seal remover/installer. You can buy the GM tools, or improvise to get the shaft seal out. Could be a screwdriver to remove and a socket/deadblow to tap it in. Ain't nothing but a lip seal.
7. TWO semi-large C-clamps- may be needed to hold back pump cover compressed against spring pressure to install retainer ring.
OPTIONAL:
Socket to fit main pump bore for shaft sleeve bearing. If you buy some aftermarket kits, you might get a new bearing. If you replace it, it's a split bearing and will need driving out and driving in. If you damage the end, you can use a small file to dress any damage to the end of the bearing once installed.
Parts needed:
1. Rebuild kit. GM p/n 7848522. Does NOT come with a new shaft sleeve bearing, but does come with all the seals and a new disc magnet (#25 in drawing below). This is the kit I got.
-OR-
2. Gates aftermarket rebuild kit p/n 350390. Comes with all the seals PLUS a new bearing, but no magnet that I can tell. I included this because if your shaft sleeve bearing needs replaced, there's no GM p/n for it. It's only available with a new housing (#4) unless you get one of these kits. I'm almost convinced all the Edelman and Gates, etc., kits are made by the same place, just put in a different name box or part number. Your old magnet should still be ok once cleaned up. Mine had a little bit of goo on it.
Not a big deal, but mostly, the power steering units when you finally work the pump reservoir off the pump itself (that O-ring doesn't want to give it up easily), there's a huge C-clip style retaining ring on the back pump cover, and the open section is placed somewhere around the 10-11, or 1-2 o'clock position by the factory when it was manufactured. Similar to the way the end cover is attached on the steering gear. There's a hole in the top of the pump above the ring so you can insert a small diameter punch into it to push down/out on the retainer ring. You then can take a screwdriver and get behind the end of the ring and work it out. Be kind, when replacing, put it back in a similar position so in case it ever comes apart again, it'll be easier for the next guy, if the next guy isn't you.
WELLLLLLllllll..........not this time. The gap is around the 6 o'clock position, meaning I have to jack around sliding that ring nearly half way around just to get it where the ring will come out properly. Not a deal breaker, but it's just another friggin' PITA thing about this stupid pump.
There are at least two ways to skin the cat to get the reservoir off the pump. You can remove the 1" high pressure fitting and pressure relief shuttle valve and spring, and then loosen the two 18mm bolts about 1/2 way out. An impact makes super quick work of this. Take a plastic faced hammer and you can whack the bolts while holding the reservoir. With luck, you can get the big O-ring seal to give way and the pump will loosen coming out the front. Back the bolts out as needed and keep tapping to get the pump loose.
2nd way: There's some flats on the snout of the pump you can put in the vise. DON'T CLAMP THE SHAFT!!! This is the method I used. Then, take all the bolts and fittings off the back. Use a deadblow hammer (or soft faced stout hammer) and tap around the front face of the reservoir to pop the reservoir loose. Don't go crazy, but it might be a bit stuck and take a little more than soft persuasion. Make sure to have a little catch pan underneath to catch any residual fluid, because there will be some.
Pulley puller/installer. This can be the Kent Moore/GM tools, or a kit you can "borrow" from Auto Zone, etc.
1. Plain old 18mm impact socket for the two pump retaining bolts (or regular sockets, but you really need to put it in a vise if using a regular socket). The threads are M10 x 1.5 just for reference.
2. A 1" impact socket for the high pressure fitting
3. Small diameter punch set
4. Medium flat blade screwdriver
5. Deadblow or solid soft-faced hammer (you may need to whack stuff to get it to give up)
6. Seal remover/installer. You can buy the GM tools, or improvise to get the shaft seal out. Could be a screwdriver to remove and a socket/deadblow to tap it in. Ain't nothing but a lip seal.
7. TWO semi-large C-clamps- may be needed to hold back pump cover compressed against spring pressure to install retainer ring.
OPTIONAL:
Socket to fit main pump bore for shaft sleeve bearing. If you buy some aftermarket kits, you might get a new bearing. If you replace it, it's a split bearing and will need driving out and driving in. If you damage the end, you can use a small file to dress any damage to the end of the bearing once installed.
Parts needed:
1. Rebuild kit. GM p/n 7848522. Does NOT come with a new shaft sleeve bearing, but does come with all the seals and a new disc magnet (#25 in drawing below). This is the kit I got.
-OR-
2. Gates aftermarket rebuild kit p/n 350390. Comes with all the seals PLUS a new bearing, but no magnet that I can tell. I included this because if your shaft sleeve bearing needs replaced, there's no GM p/n for it. It's only available with a new housing (#4) unless you get one of these kits. I'm almost convinced all the Edelman and Gates, etc., kits are made by the same place, just put in a different name box or part number. Your old magnet should still be ok once cleaned up. Mine had a little bit of goo on it.
Not a big deal, but mostly, the power steering units when you finally work the pump reservoir off the pump itself (that O-ring doesn't want to give it up easily), there's a huge C-clip style retaining ring on the back pump cover, and the open section is placed somewhere around the 10-11, or 1-2 o'clock position by the factory when it was manufactured. Similar to the way the end cover is attached on the steering gear. There's a hole in the top of the pump above the ring so you can insert a small diameter punch into it to push down/out on the retainer ring. You then can take a screwdriver and get behind the end of the ring and work it out. Be kind, when replacing, put it back in a similar position so in case it ever comes apart again, it'll be easier for the next guy, if the next guy isn't you.
WELLLLLLllllll..........not this time. The gap is around the 6 o'clock position, meaning I have to jack around sliding that ring nearly half way around just to get it where the ring will come out properly. Not a deal breaker, but it's just another friggin' PITA thing about this stupid pump.
There are at least two ways to skin the cat to get the reservoir off the pump. You can remove the 1" high pressure fitting and pressure relief shuttle valve and spring, and then loosen the two 18mm bolts about 1/2 way out. An impact makes super quick work of this. Take a plastic faced hammer and you can whack the bolts while holding the reservoir. With luck, you can get the big O-ring seal to give way and the pump will loosen coming out the front. Back the bolts out as needed and keep tapping to get the pump loose.
2nd way: There's some flats on the snout of the pump you can put in the vise. DON'T CLAMP THE SHAFT!!! This is the method I used. Then, take all the bolts and fittings off the back. Use a deadblow hammer (or soft faced stout hammer) and tap around the front face of the reservoir to pop the reservoir loose. Don't go crazy, but it might be a bit stuck and take a little more than soft persuasion. Make sure to have a little catch pan underneath to catch any residual fluid, because there will be some.
