In the meantime, why not drive it and enjoy it in it's current state while you accumulate the necessary parts and funds for your intended upgrades.
Thoughts on Restomod Sequence
- Thread starter CaliWagon83
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That helps a lot. I think you have realistic expectations given your budget. It sounds like the vast majority of what you're doing is replacing old parts with new. None of what you've listed really requires special tools or equipment.
Here's how I'd approach it if I were in your situation:
1. Get it roadworthy in it's current configuration and put some miles on it. You'll quickly discover what you do and don't like about it. I'd probably want to put 1000 miles on it before I set any plans in stone.
2. Make a sequential build (to do) list while simultaneously making a parts list.
3. Order everything you think you'll need at once. It sucks to get 75% through a build and either run out of money or find out something is discontinued.
3.5. Maybe a storage shed in the back or side yard might be a good idea before parts start to be delivered. Don't worry, once the car is done you'll find plenty of other things to fill it up with.
4. Peel the body off the frame, strip it of all parts, send it out for whatever reinforcements you have planned. I'd probably forgo the powder coating and just have it painted with chassis black. Then install all your new parts and set the body back down.
5. This will probably take the longest. All the loose ends and little things before its driveable.
6. Enjoy.
Driven has laid it out pretty well, my exception to that is the powder coating. It really isn't that much more than painting it, at least in my area.
Either way, you'll really want to have it either blasted or dipped, so same money there. To do it right, everything will need to come off, so same effort there. A GOOD paint system for the chassis (NOT rattle can) will cost very near what coating a clean bare frame will when you look at all the materials. I have seen talk of having the frame galvanized (inside and out) after dipping, which would be nice to ensure no problems with corrosion from the inside out.
Wagon frames have different rear body mounts / access holes than sedans/coupes, but do share the same basic shape and wheelbase.
Either way, you'll really want to have it either blasted or dipped, so same money there. To do it right, everything will need to come off, so same effort there. A GOOD paint system for the chassis (NOT rattle can) will cost very near what coating a clean bare frame will when you look at all the materials. I have seen talk of having the frame galvanized (inside and out) after dipping, which would be nice to ensure no problems with corrosion from the inside out.
Wagon frames have different rear body mounts / access holes than sedans/coupes, but do share the same basic shape and wheelbase.
Thanks for your guys' thoughts. Once I get it down here, I may be leaning on you guys for some basic tech tips. Here's what I'm figuring I'm going to need for sure:
- Oil & filter change after first fire/shakedown (duh!)
- New plugs
- Carburetor rebuild
- Fuel pump (maybe)
- Radiator flush
- TH200 Transmission rebuild (was even a little sketchy last time it ran)
- Change rear diff fluid
- New battery
- Re-grease wheel bearings (maybe)
- Suspension bushings
- Brake pads/shoes (maybe)
You might get lucky with a battery and fluid services -- probably a carb rebuild too. If you're doing all new suspension and replacing the transmission, I'm not sure I'd waste the time and money on the old stuff. The exception would be if it's completely unsafe, obviously. Maybe you just want the practice🤣.
I've never had a budget like yours though.
I've never had a budget like yours though.
Well, who knows how long it's going to be before I've got the full budget to go whole hog with the restomod, so I'm not opposed to dropping about $2k to get it to the point where I can go to weekend cruise-ins and drive to the grocery store.
I think you'll be surprised how little it needs. Change the fluids, check the brakes and lines, then drive the wheels off it. Oh, and check the voltage too.
Change fluids/filters, check brakes including flex hoses, and drive it. I WOULD NOT spend money on rebuilding a TH200. They work OK for a driver, but no sense in putting rebuild money into one.
Although, being an '83, it's far more likely that it's a TH250, should only have a TH200 if it was a California 4.3 diesel car.
Although, being an '83, it's far more likely that it's a TH250, should only have a TH200 if it was a California 4.3 diesel car.
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It's a 231 2-bbl. Pretty sure it's a TH200. Might just change fluid and put a new trans filter in it and see if that does the trick.
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