To header or not to header that is the question?

[Woodswagon1]

Sunday my newly purchased 85 cutlass will see the light of day for the first time in 11 years. One of my millwrights is helping me get her back together in his shop and I'm looking for info as to what I should do with the headers. The original builder had already transplanted the 455 to its new home and had removed it in 02 for a total rebuild .30 over mild cam headers etc. but ended up joining the marines in and never moved back to put her back together. He removed the inner fender wells and im asuming this was to make room for the headers wich im not too sure if i want to go down that road just looking for thoughts, advise opinions on which direction I should go headers or stock manifolds and thoughts of running without fender wells to accommodate headers. I'm getting anxious for Sunday after confirming today that the ground has dried up enough to get a truck and trailer down to the barn, It's been years since I mashed my right foot down and played the stacks out the back!!!!

 

[DoubleV]

If you're looking to squeez every ounce of HP out of your build, then yeah, you'll need headers. American Racing now makes a set of stainless headers ( $$$ ) for your application. They will fit the best for sure. Any other headers may or may not give you a headache getting them to fit. I wouldn't want a set of headers that force you to make comprimises, like the headers that wrap around the frame and interfere with your turning.

If you want alot less hassle, I'd go with a set of W/Z manifolds. If I were you and I couldn't afford the AR headers, I'd go with the W/Z manifolds. It's not like your car's going to be slow without headers right?

 

[FirstClass 383]

If you're looking to squeez every ounce of HP out of your build, then yeah, you'll need headers. American Racing now makes a set of stainless headers ( $$$ ) for your application. They will fit the best for sure. Any other headers may or may not give you a headache getting them to fit. I wouldn't want a set of headers that force you to make comprimises, like the headers that wrap around the frame and interfere with your turning.

If you want alot less hassle, I'd go with a set of W/Z manifolds. If I were you and I couldn't afford the AR headers, I'd go with the W/Z manifolds. It's not like your car's going to be slow without headers right?

I concur get out of the barn and on the pc and do some cking around. I would not want something flying up and possibly break something or damage something for not have wheel wells, just because of a set of headers, things have change SO much in 11 years my friend, post some pics of this beauty

 

[olds307 and 403]

You have 3 choices as far as headers go. The Hooker that wrap around the frame, supposedly fit good, you can use a full size starter but wrap around the frame. Limited steering and narrow tires up front. Dick Miller's are next and supposedly fit well, inside the frame but need his mini starter. Ceramic coated are getting close to the price of the last option. Everyone who has American Racing headers loves them, they fit with minor mods they tell you about, stainless construction, and have given track proven gains over cheap headers. The bad news is $1000+ a set. With the WZ repro manifolds being much cheaper than any header and will last nearly forever is a good thing. That is nice advantage using the 455 over the 350 or 403 is decent manifolds but still expect a 25 hp/tq loss compared to headers.

 

[oldsofb]

I jumped on a pair of the Kooks headers for 455 G-Body's. If they are still offered, that would be an option. For me there is no question......Headers!

 

[Woodswagon1]

Thanks for the info guys. Def not trying to squeeze anything outa her I'm sure she's got plenty of bag the way she sits. Tried to post a pic and vid earlier but they seem to have gone somewhere .....out........there........... Here's my third attempt, maybe also look at the manifold it's got a w stamped in it are these just stock or the w/z that was mentioned?

 

[DoubleV]

Here's my third attempt, maybe also look at the manifold it's got a w stamped in it are these just stock or the w/z that was mentioned?

The W is the drivers side manifold which you have. The Z is the passenger side manifold of the set. If you have the matching Z manifold, you're good to go.

 

[Woodswagon1]

Here's a dirty girl pic

 

[Woodswagon1]

Well I'll know tomorrow when we go north to get her if the passenger side has a z stamped in it. This time tomorrow she'll be in the light of day headed down the road to where she'll be pieced back to gather and life breathed into it again.

 

[Woodswagon1]

Here's a pic from today