To restore or not to restore?

[fsjcherokee]

Hello, I joined up as I recently acquired a 1981 Olds Cutlass supreme. (My first car BTW) and thought it had potential. Upon further inspection this thing is rough. I have done cars this bad before but they usually end up being worth a bit more than our G bodies are bringing. The good is it has a newly overhauled 403 with a thm400 built with stall convertor an shift kit. It was a vinyl top car and I have since eliminated that to expose the rust in the roof. Its fixable/doable. I am just not sure how to proceed. Anyone of you in the Central Indiana area?

 

[Injectedcutty]

I'm in Louisville....i had the roof skin replaced on my 87 cutlass several years ago after removing the vinyl and finding significant rust. Very common issue with the vinyl cars. I recommend hitting the yards in search of a good donor hardtop car. With some basic measuring, cutting wheels or similar tools, and a welder it's very doable over a day or two. If done right nobody will ever notice after bodywork and paint.

 

[fsjcherokee]

Thats what I am running into. After the great "purge" when scrap was high most of our yards especially the ones with older inventory got sacked. I forgot to mention the front suspension looks like someone drove it off road after loosenig the bolts. The PS lower control arm bolt is hanging out and bent down?

 

[Injectedcutty]

Thats what I am running into. After the great "purge" when scrap was high most of our yards especially the ones with older inventory got sacked. I forgot to mention the front suspension looks like someone drove it off road after loosenig the bolts. The PS lower control arm bolt is hanging out and bent down?

Dang, maybe some other members here might have an idea on a roof. I forgot to ask, what is your final goal for the cutlass? Would it be worth doing the necessary metal work and suspension repairs ( that sucks btw) for the end result.
In regards to the roof, factory vinyl cars had garbage factory bondo where the roof and sail panel meet where as factory hardtop cars that were converted had lead for the seam. Luckily, my cutlass was a factory hardtop car that had the vinyl installed afterwards...it makes it easier when putting a new skin on, have to melt the old lead out and weld the seam back together.
I would replace all the control arm bolts to be safe and next time I'm in a local yard i will keep my eyes peeled for a top.
Scott

 

[fsjcherokee]

I don't expect or want a showroom car. I was wanting a decent street car for my neck of the woods. But I just don't want to end up throwing a bunch of money into something that really isn't worth it. Or maybe it is. Looking at sourcing fiberglass doors to eliminate the weight and mine are bad. As it stand besides the front suspension, I will need both doors, PS floor pan, and DS rear quarter. The area on the roof is about 12"x12" and can be more than likely cut out and a new piece of metal and weld it in .

 

[Injectedcutty]

I don't expect or want a showroom car. I was wanting a decent street car for my neck of the woods. But I just don't want to end up throwing a bunch of money into something that really isn't worth it. Or maybe it is. Looking at sourcing fiberglass doors to eliminate the weight and mine are bad. As it stand besides the front suspension, I will need both doors, PS floor pan, and DS rear quarter. The area on the roof is about 12"x12" and can be more than likely cut out and a new piece of metal and weld it in .

That's not to bad then metal wise. I wish mine was that simple...minus my doors being good, i needed both rockers, both quarters, roof, rear frame repair from rust, ds front floor pan. Agreed on the street car quality appearance in the paint dept. Gotta do what your budget will allow for sure, i completely understand that part....hence while I'm 4-1/2 years in on mine geesh! Keep us all posted.

 

[Texas82GP]

That's not to bad then metal wise. I wish mine was that simple...minus my doors being good, i needed both rockers, both quarters, roof, rear frame repair from rust, ds front floor pan. Agreed on the street car quality appearance in the paint dept. Gotta do what your budget will allow for sure, i completely understand that part....hence while I'm 4-1/2 years in on mine geesh! Keep us all posted.

I can't believe the rust you guys have to contend with up north. Down here that would be a parts car. I'm glad you saved it from the crusher.

 

[Injectedcutty]

I can't believe the rust you guys have to contend with up north. Down here that would be a parts car. I'm glad you saved it from the crusher.

I'm in KY but i believe my cutlass was originally from Michigan and spent enough time there to start the process. I bought it from my neighbors in 2001 and they had it for several years but it was garage kept until i got it....no garage and my daily driver from 01 till 06 or so. However, it's been in a garage since winter of '11 so it was outside for 10 years which reeked havoc on it....I did enjoy playing around in the snow with a 400hp sbc though lol!

 

[565bbchevy]

Looking at sourcing fiberglass doors to eliminate the weight and mine are bad, I will need both doors, .

Fiberglass doors for a Gbody are race only items that are not designed to hold a glass window since you use Lexan windows on those and if you could run them you would need some sort of roll bar since you would have no crash protection at all from a side impact.
They sell new reproduction doors but they are not cheap but you are getting a door that has never had rust or repairs on it.
They also sell new bottoms to repair the doors which is what I will be doing on my Regal.

 

[fsjcherokee]

Thanks to all of you for your input. I guess my biggest weakness was running across an 81 cutlass. Like I mentioned initially it as my very first driving car my mom bought it new. I of course trashed it being 16 and stupid. You always seem to run across 84 and up cars but seem to never see and 81. Plus the fresh 403/thm400 but I broke my own rule and let nostalgia overshadow common sense. Anyway this seems like the place to start in terms of parts. Besides the yards anyone have suggestions on parts ie quarters, doors, etc. I have seen complete front suspension kits out there for a surprisingly reasonable price under $500 like all of you just trying to get the best bang for the buck.