Just posting as little update on car. Frame is cleaned. Welded front to back. Boxed frame and reinforced shock towers. Painted in por15. Just started frontend install with all new brake lined
Thanks for the reply and totally agree with u. With my budget tubular control arms are on hold for awhile. I just toke stock arms and installed energy suspension bushings. I got 2 in blazer drop spindles with moog 5660 coils. Blazer front brake upgrade. Umi front sway bar. Rear umi 2 in drop coils and umi rear control arms. I'll see how car handles with this setup cus it's only a cruiser.Looking great so far!
As for the springs and suspension, You NEED to talk to the boys at UMI. You say you want Pro-Touring and I see you are modifying the frame to stiffen it up.
I also see you've already renewed the Control Arms, BUT... consider new tubular upper control arms at least for Caster adjust-ability 6-8* and longer ball joints to correct the Camber swing. Probably the best handling mods you can do besides springs and sway bars.
What would to recommend for rims 17 or 18. Hard to find go pics of malibu's with 17 or 18s .of And the alignment I was hoping for -1 camber and 6 on casterI'm sure it'll handle fine with your current set up.
One of my favorite jobs to do at my shop are wheel alignments. Especially on older car & trucks. Changing the Caster from 1-2 degrees to 5-8 in my opinion makes a huge difference for a "Highway Cruzer" Makes the car way more stable in a straight line at higher speeds (70mph +)
On a wide, lower profile tire like on a 17" or 18" rim will wear faster on the inside edges with Neg Camber. If just a cruiser, keep it as close to 0 Camber or -0.25 at most, and lots of Caster.What would to recommend for rims 17 or 18. Hard to find go pics of malibu's with 17 or 18s .of And the alignment I was hoping for -1 camber and 6 on caster
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