Totally rookie question...

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khan0165

Royal Smart Person
Jul 14, 2008
1,617
16
38
Ontario, Canada
my 750cfm works fine... the 650cfm before couldn't feed the motor, even with big jets and other modifications. I suppose it wasn't bad doddling around town, but the motor would fall flat at the top end. That being said, Ottawa climate and altitude is different from others...

My car has a full interior. And asside from the 90's Blazer/Jimmy front buckets, all factory appolstry too.

When I race, I pull out the passenger seats, the spare tire/jack, and if I'm up to it... the hood and exhaust. You will save over 150lbs from that.
And if the rearend's not hooking off the launch, I throw one of my tires back in the trunk.
 

kornball426

Royal Smart Person
May 29, 2009
1,439
286
83
Philadelphia, PA.
I always read that you should go with vacuum secondaries on a automatic car and according to Holley on cars weighing over 3100lbs. But the car is responsive with the 750 dbl pumper... So I don't see any reason to change it.
 

stomis

Master Mechanic
May 14, 2010
403
0
0
Brick NJ
JBreu said:
Here is my combo:


388 stroker block built for 93 pump gas....

all forged lower end
eddy performer rpm cam : 234/244 ad.duration (488/510 lift) flat tappet
dart pro 1- aluminum heads 200 cc 2.02/1.94 valves
performer rpm air gap intake
eddy 750 carb (old) dynoed at 514 hp at 6800 rpm...I now have a holley 750 DP
700-r4 transmission 1800-2000 stall
4.10 gears

I ran a best of 12.57 @109 mph................

with the th-400 last year and eddy carb (with a bog off the line issue) and a 3000 converter w/3.73 gears my best was a 13.39 @103.

Both times weere with nitto drag radials.........however with the 13.39 time I had high tire pressure ( still hooked though)

With yout set up as is ..........low 13's to high 12's I'd say..... JMO though 8)

Yeah but I think we all know with a correct stall converter your car is gonna bust 11s eventually. And I hate to salt the wounds but a 200r4 or th350 would really help too...

kornball426 said:
Thanks for the opinions everyone.

Since the heads are said to flow 20% more than vortec's and their crate motor with less cam and less compression is advertised to make 420 (obviously that's crank, but false advertising is illegal... So you decided), and I know advertised not real world. But still, I would venture to guess it's more than 425 horsepower. :p I forgot to mention it's got 1.6:1 Comp roller rockers, and I'm not sure because like I said I haven't had the motor apart, but it's supposed to have a roller cam and lifters. It's also supposed to have a forged 4130 Eagle crank. How do I verify what the crank is? Since I've got the motor out, It will be easy to check.

In all honesty, I don't see where 500lbs could be removed without a TON of money being spent. There's nothing in the trunk, no spare or jack, no carpet or padding. There's nothing but essentials in the interior, carpet, stock seats manual everything nothing power, basic stereo nothing fancy. Under the hood pretty much everything is aluminum that can be aluminum. I guess I could put a manual steering box and save 10 or 15 lbs and lose some parasitic drag from the power steering pump which is probably worth a couple HP/TQ and get an aluminum water pump (which is planned) and lose another 10 lbs. The car has a stock GM starter on it that weighs a ton, but it's going back on until I need a starter and I'll replace it with a mini starter probably worth 5lbs? Other than going to fiberglass body panels, I don't see what could be removed to lose weight. I see maybe 100 lbs weight loss being simple, before it gets down to light weight seats and a stripped interior with fiberglass panels and lexan glass. I'd be down with the lexan glass but that stuff is expensive and not DOT legal, and I want to keep the full interior. I'd consider removing the rear seats... They're such a tight fit that I doubt anyone but a small child could sit back there comfortably anyway.

I already thought about the carb being a bit big, but I looked at the Holley website and they have a chart for power level, max RPM, and cubic inches... And the carb I have is in the high end range of what they recommend.


How does your car weight that much? Where/ when did you weigh it?
 

kornball426

Royal Smart Person
May 29, 2009
1,439
286
83
Philadelphia, PA.
Well I assume, because I read that some weigh up to 3,800 lbs. I just looked it up though, a base model 74 with a 6 cylinder the curb weight as equipped from the factory... Was supposed to be about 3,285 lbs, and then about 3,540 for a base model with a "V8" I'm guessing Poncho 350. A loaded 455 T/A is supposed to weigh 3,655. So that's what I'm basing my guess off of. I'm just guessing that it's somewhere in that ballpark. It started out as a 6cyl car, so it should presumably have weighed 3,285 lbs to start with... A chevy 250ci L6 weighs 440lbs according to the charts I have. I don't know the exact weight of my engine, but probably about 520-540 lbs with aluminum heads, intake, and headers. I don't know what the trunk carpet, jack, and spare weigh but don't think it would weigh much more than 40 or 50lbs combined. 100 lbs more for the motor, and 40lbs less from the trunk (very rough estimate). On a bare bones nothing but essentials base model car, that should be 3,340 lbs no fluids.

Now I don't know the difference in weight between Pontiac rally wheels, and Weld Draglites, and the difference in weight between a 8.5 ten bolt, and a 7.5 ten bolt. So that's not taken into account, but I'm willing to guess that on the low side it weighs between 3,300 and 3,500 lbs. :mrgreen:

(I lowered the range a hundred lbs... but it still seems close to my guess. :p )
 

stomis

Master Mechanic
May 14, 2010
403
0
0
Brick NJ
kornball426 said:
Well I assume, because I read that some weigh up to 3,800 lbs. I just looked it up though, a base model 74 with a 6 cylinder the curb weight as equipped from the factory... Was supposed to be about 3,285 lbs, and then about 3,540 for a base model with a "V8" I'm guessing Poncho 350. A loaded 455 T/A is supposed to weigh 3,655. So that's what I'm basing my guess off of. I'm just guessing that it's somewhere in that ballpark. It started out as a 6cyl car, so it should presumably have weighed 3,285 lbs to start with... A chevy 250ci L6 weighs 440lbs according to the charts I have. I don't know the exact weight of my engine, but probably about 520-540 lbs with aluminum heads, intake, and headers. I don't know what the trunk carpet, jack, and spare weigh but don't think it would weigh much more than 40 or 50lbs combined. 100 lbs more for the motor, and 40lbs less from the trunk (very rough estimate). On a bare bones nothing but essentials base model car, that should be 3,340 lbs no fluids.

Now I don't know the difference in weight between Pontiac rally wheels, and Weld Draglites, and the difference in weight between a 8.5 ten bolt, and a 7.5 ten bolt. So that's not taken into account, but I'm willing to guess that on the low side it weighs between 3,300 and 3,500 lbs. :mrgreen:

(I lowered the range a hundred lbs... but it still seems close to my guess. :p )


As the old adage goes "The only way to know for sure is to run it"

Theres loads of guys that try to think optimistically, me being one of them, and often times get disappointed. In the same token theres people on here that think conservatively about ET estimations because they dont want to disappoint.

Either way that motor should be able to break twelves dialed in and maybe even creep on 12.6's or 12.7's but I really doubt your gonna run the low end of the 12's. The edelbrock RPMs just simply have too much room for improvement to expect excellent times out of them without busting out the die grinder.
 

kornball426

Royal Smart Person
May 29, 2009
1,439
286
83
Philadelphia, PA.
I'll run it once it's put back together... I wanted to get my engine back in today before work, but that's not gonna happen. Guess it'll have to wait until tomorrow or Wednesday. I need a second set of hands to get it lined up, which isn't available.

Then I need to sort out the brakes so I can at least drive it up and down the street a few times before they salt the roads. I only got to drive the car once since I bought it, it's killing me. :lol: Then I need to fix that hole in the floor, then it should be good to pass inspection. Then after I do a tune up and have the carb dialed in by a buddy of mine who's like a carb guru, I'll find out how it runs.
 
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