Transmission Options

[Rgpmalibu]

Hi Gang,

I have a '78 Malibu with a stock '04 5.3L Vortec and a 4L60e transmission. I bought them as a pullout. I would like to cam the engine, something not too aggressive like the Texas Speed Low Lift 208/214, .550/.550, 112 LSA Camshaft. I'm worried about the transmission being able to handle it. Actually, I'm worried about the transmission handling the engine as is with a 3.70 rear end. I've been listening to your conversations about transmissions, and the general consensus seems to be to go with a 4L80 and don't look back. I don't want to modify the trans tunnel, so I probably won't go that route, but is there a transmission that you might recommend, maybe like a Gearstar 4L60, or something similar, that will hold up? I don't want to drag race, I'm not a super aggressive driver, I don't do burnouts. But I'm afraid I'm going to have a 1-2 shift one day that destroys what I have. Maybe I'm just being paranoid, but the way I hear people talk, the stock 4L60 just wasn't cut out to handle any added horsepower. Just looking for opinions here to add to the information that I have already collected.

Thanks!!
Rob

 

[L92 OLDS]

I’ve been listening to your conversations about transmissions, and the general consensus seems to be to go with a 4L80 and don't look back. I don't want to modify the trans tunnel, so I probably won't go that route.

Thanks!!
Rob

The 4L80 will fit a G body without modifying the tunnel no problem. It is a bulletproof solution and you won’t be worried about it down the road

 

[81cutlass]

A 4l60e is fine especially for a smaller displacement LS car that will get a cam and headers at most. If I did an LS swap for the point of being a cruiser I'd stay 60e if it was bolted to my engine that I bought. However, if you plan to ever put boost or nitrous or go with a stroked 6.0 with good heads or something then it really becomes weak.

Ultimately a 60e is just a 700r4 which was designed to give anemic 4.3 S10 blazers and 305 Suburban's enough torque to pull boats out of the ramp at the lake.

I've noticed at least that a 2WD 4l60e is worth the same (or more) than a 2wd 4l80e, at least in the northern states were 2wd silverados and suburbans are rare.

You still need a driveshaft, crossmember and cooler hoses either way and as above noted, the 80e's fit like stock. It's really no extra work or cost to put in an 80e if you are doing a swap. Only savings on a 60e is some efficiency, maybe ~10hp?

 

[64nailhead]

4L80 or 200-4R - take your pick. If you want the ECM to control the transmission, then 80E. If you want a non-electronic transmission, then a 200-4R.

The 200-4R will be a $2500 adventure, give or take. The 80E can be very cheap other than a performance converter. If you can live with a stock converter, then they are less than $250.

 

[Texas82GP]

If you are going to baby it, the 4L60E should hold up for 100,000 miles. That's all my brother got out of his in his 02 Sierra that he bought new. This is and was a completely stock truck with a 5.3 and a 3.73. No antics. He doesn't drive it like that.

I built the 4L60E behind my mild cammed 5.3 in my truck twice. I put a lot of expensive parts in it (billet input shaft and drum assembly, sun shell, blah, blah, blah). It wouldn't hold up. It's good money after bad in my opinion. I do drive with my foot in the gas and I do sometimes pass at full throttle. The 4L60E was the only part of the truck that couldn't take it. I don't tow.

If you are going to baby it, it should hold until it's worn out. Still, they are marginal at best for 300 HP, in my experience.

 

[motorheadmike]

4L60E is sufficient for your needs. I had a 4L60E behind the HCI LS1 in my wagon and it worked fine... and that was after many years in my wife's old LS1 Camaro.

I just added a Sonnax shift kit, boost valves, and a billet servo and converter when it went into the wagon.

However, if you are planning on big boy power: 4L80E.

 

[81cutlass]

60e's are kinda a dice roll. Some wear out early under non abuse or light abuse conditions (like Jared mentioned) and some are like the energizer bunny in stock or lightly modified vehicles.

My 280k mile 04 5.3 Rainier has an OEM 60e. I just pulled it last fall to change the rear main seal and it had never been out. I changed the fluid at 190k and 270k and that's it. It's towed cars probably 3000 miles and towed utility trailers maybe 10k miles during my ownership. However it's always felt slushy and I have been concerned the trans is going to die for all of those 100k miles I've driven it lol.

My 180k mile 97 3800 firebird got a blower, cam and headers at 130k miles and ended up getting into the mid 12's on a stock OEM V6 60e and always shifted fine.

But a lot of people cook them at much earlier intervals.

 

[L92 OLDS]

If you ever plan on selling your car, telling a potential buyer that your car has a 4L60 is a big negative. As you know they don’t have a good reputation. If you choose a 4L80 on the other hand it will increase the value of your car. Why take the risk when cost is about the same? It’s a no brainer for me…..

 

[Texas82GP]

You already have the 60E so you could roll the dice with it. I wouldn't put any big money into it. Time is precious to me so I want to do a big job like that once and move on to other projects. My 96 Roadmaster has a 4L60E in it. I'll keep it in that car as I'm keeping that car stock. Otherwise, I don't intend to own another 4L60E.

 

[motorheadmike]

Bone stock with a tick of tuning:

60E baby!