TSP225230-114-3B

[Dinosport]

Anybody using this cam. 225/230 629/615 114lsa. Thats the cam recommended to me by texas speed. Just curious if anybody has any experience with it, idle, power etc. Its on sale for 100bucks off right now on the texas speed site.
Any info would be appreciated

 

[vanrah]

Greetings Dino & all; Ya didn't say how many cubes you have or your heads (flow), so It's hard to give an OPinion. But with that duration it won't be the sweetest idler. Obviously the OE converter won't work, if you're an auto trans. And Maybe I should mention valve spring & lifter roller life! Except 10-12,000 miles for the valve springs. You'll be twisting this to 6500 with ease, the springs will give their life for your pleasure. Also keep in mind that you will be loading the lifter roller beyond the street oils capably to carry to the load. After you have opened the engine, use a break in oil, to help rollers live, syn is too slippery & won't carry the tiny grit away + you will get extra ZDDP (zinc). If noting more to cleanse the engine for any tiny grit that can start roller damage that won't show up for miles down the road. Example my good buddy has an Ls 6 (yes a ZO6) that spent a month away from home being modified by a performance house LP & they put in a cam with a smitch more duration & lift, recommending Mobil 1: 15-50. This took place back in 2004 when said oil had more ZDDP. Well that set up lasted 22,000 miles, roller & lobe damage & junk springs. It seems Mobil 1: 15 -50 is TOo heavy for the Ls oiling system? And not enough ZDDP to carry the increased loads! So after the break in oil try Driven LS30 by Joe Gibbs or some other Hi zinc hot rod oil. Some guys are running Shell Rotilla syn 10-30, it's cheep, But It isn't blended for gasoline engines & the shear doesn't like RPM, it tends to foam. And double check your valve train geometry (push rod length). Good luck & have Fun, I hope I helped, Ol'e Bob

 

[Dinosport]

Greetings Dino & all; Ya didn't say how many cubes you have or your heads (flow), so It's hard to give an OPinion. But with that duration it won't be the sweetest idler. Obviously the OE converter won't work, if you're an auto trans. And Maybe I should mention valve spring & lifter roller life! Except 10-12,000 miles for the valve springs. You'll be twisting this to 6500 with ease, the springs will give their life for your pleasure. Also keep in mind that you will be loading the lifter roller beyond the street oils capably to carry to the load. After you have opened the engine, use a break in oil, to help rollers live, syn is too slippery & won't carry the tiny grit away + you will get extra ZDDP (zinc). If noting more to cleanse the engine for any tiny grit that can start roller damage that won't show up for miles down the road. Example my good buddy has an Ls 6 (yes a ZO6) that spent a month away from home being modified by a performance house LP & they put in a cam with a smitch more duration & lift, recommending Mobil 1: 15-50. This took place back in 2004 when said oil had more ZDDP. Well that set up lasted 22,000 miles, roller & lobe damage & junk springs. It seems Mobil 1: 15 -50 is TOo heavy for the Ls oiling system? And not enough ZDDP to carry the increased loads! So after the break in oil try Driven LS30 by Joe Gibbs or some other Hi zinc hot rod oil. Some guys are running Shell Rotilla syn 10-30, it's cheep, But It isn't blended for gasoline engines & the shear doesn't like RPM, it tends to foam. And double check your valve train geometry (push rod length). Good luck & have Fun, I hope I helped, Ol'e Bob

Thanks for info. Good things to know. The motor is an LY6, 6.0 ltr with 823 heads. I'll be running a 700R4 with a roughly 2300 stall according to whom I got the set up from. I'm not concerned if it has a slightly choppy idle. Texas speed did make me a list including push rods, valve springs, and some other stuff to go along with it. As for idle if it's a little choppy I will probably like that. The car will be mostly a street car. Cruise with the kids for icecream. A few burnouts when with the boys. Maybe 1/4 mile run or 2 at best, for fun.

 

[Texas82GP]

Greetings Dino & all; Ya didn't say how many cubes you have or your heads (flow), so It's hard to give an OPinion

Great post. He's working on a GEN IV 6.0 ("LS" Vortec truck engine). He plans to remove the VVT and run a 700R4 behind it. I can't remember if he's stated his intentions on converter or gear. He has several threads going.

My opinion is that it is too much cam for me. We went with the GM LS Hotcam in my brother's 78 Z28 LS swap. I know guys will howl at that but we had several reasons. One, I had a relationship with a Chevrolet parts department here in town so we got the kit including the matching valve springs for a very good deal. Second, we wanted the car to run and sound healthy but wanted good idling manners when the clutch is pushed in and the A/C is running. We're in Houston so the A/C will be running. Third, I'm not completely comfortable with the aggressive lobe profiles and high amounts of lift of these custom ground aftermarket cams. How long the valve springs can survive .629 lift is a concern for me. My brother and I are not interested in changing valve springs in 30-40k miles. With the Hotcam and the matching springs (LS6 yellow), we know we have an engineered combination that should run 100k+ miles with no issues.

Oh, the specs on the Hotcam are 219/228 .525/.525 on a 112 LSA.

I know it was designed for cathedral port heads and we are leaving power on the table. However, the car sounds and.runs great. His car was never a max effort build. When my brother has it on the floor in 2nd gear it is a little scary in the passenger seat. It is more than enough power for a 245mm wide tire.

I hope this will give some good perspective. I would trade some lift, some duration and some peak HP for better manners, better low end torque and better reliability. Here are a couple of pics of my brother's car for fun. I'm proud of it. Some of my best work went into this car. Best regards, Jared.

 

[Dinosport]

Thanks Teaxs82GP. My car isnt a max effort either, 400 at the wheels is kind of my goal, But its mostly for bragging rights, I would probably never use that much power, or maybe I will? Theres a honda around here that gets on my nerves from time to time. lol. It would probably take me somewhere from 5 to 10 yrs to put 30k on it. I cant take it to work, and so for a few errands on saturday and an occasional 2hr ride to NY is about all the car will see, Then itll sit all winter.
Now as far as cams go according to Texas Speed that cam should retain stock like manners? Glad I asked. Ill have to call them back and make sure they can verify that.
Thanks Again Guys

 

[Texas82GP]

My butt dyno says my brother's setup makes 400-450 hp with the cam, headers, LS3 intake and 3" X-pipe exhaust. Maybe with the 114 LSA that Texas Speed cam will have good manners. Maybe I'm a little stodgy. It just looks big for the street, expecially for an automatic. Hopefully others will chime in. I just wanted to give you my perspective.

 

[Dinosport]

Thanks Texas82GP Im going to try to call them later today and see what they say about that cam.
I dont mind a little choppy idle as long as it runs good and has decent street manners, especially since most of the time ill be with the wife and kids.
I was hoping to save 100bucks since its on sale right now too. But first to make sure its what I want or I didnt really save anything

 

[vanrah]

Greetings Guys; DinoSport I see that you are considering running a 700 R-4? I learner a few things along the way about 700's that may help you make your decision? 700's hate making shifts at 6500 Rpm on the Governor & vacuum single automatically. This was 17 years ago I went through this experience, things may have changed since then? I know that their's a bunch of stronger parts available now. But the automatic shift issue still remains problem manic. Hence why so many guys run a 4L60 or 65E now days, you set shift points with a computer. Their's a few other inherit reasons the 700 doesn't like shifting at 6500 & above. With modern parts, shifts below 6500 & less than 450 Lbs Ft of Torque you may have a good experience with a 700. If you exceed those parameters you will more than likely have an experience similar to mine. An expensive engineering lesson for one summer of overdrive!
Back to your cam, due to my limited Ls experience (Ls-2 & Ls-6 only), I wonder if that truck intake will be able to flow the cams specs? The Heads may be OK, but I'd do a pocket port & match, skin cut + a good valve job to be sure? Mr Texas mentioned the Hot Cam from GM.

specs on the Hotcam are 219/228 .525/.525 on a 112 LSA

This would be much happier with the 700 as your max shift points would be under 6500 Rpm. And the intake & heads won't be as big of issue. But I would still fresh'in the heads! Take care, Ol'e Bob

 

[Dinosport]

Thanks Vanrah. Trans wise options for me for now is the 700r4 or a 200c. The 700 has been gone through. I don't know what was done to it. But I guess I'll give it a shot and see how it goes. I really wanted a 200R4 but the 700 came to me for 200bucks with B&M converter and all.

 

[Opie Knievel]

Thanks Vanrah. Trans wise options for me for now is the 700r4 or a 200c. The 700 has been gone through. I don't know what was done to it. But I guess I'll give it a shot and see how it goes. I really wanted a 200R4 but the 700 came to me for 200bucks with B&M converter and all.

Whatever you do, don't waste your time or money on a 200C. I've never had good luck out of a 700R4 but I know a lot of people have.