- Dec 1, 2014
Before you do much else with this we need some clearer info to offer better recommendations. Let start with some car info. Was this car built with a 200-4R? Is that the stock carb and what is it exactly? Is the cable bracket you have now the stock bracket?mines the second pic ..and my cable and bracket are stock Im guessing .
Now onto the next set of questions : why are you trying to adjust this, is there a shifting/performance issue? What is going on with the current cable with the stop on it? Can you remove the cable from the carb and grab a photo or two of the area where it mounts on the carb stud?
Here are some 200-4R basics and most of these apply to a 700-R4 as well relating to line pressure, TV cable and the actual throttle valve. The purpose of the throttle valve cable is to provide a link from your right foot to the transmission so that the transmission oil pump can provide enough 'line pressure' to meet the demand of the engine's torque based on throttle position. Correct carb TV cable bracket geometry is critical to the longevity of the clutches, servo and TC. The geometry is factory tuned via where the cable mounts - this is the reason for asking you what carb and are any of the components stock on your current setup.TV cable adjustment has nothing to do with tuning shift points or feel for a stock setup - repeat NOTHING. Shift points and firmness are tuned inside the transmission. There is a factory adjustment procedure that works absolutely perfectly if you have a factory build and components including TC, transmission, brackets and cable, and relatively mild or stock motor. The factory made 200's for the mildest V8's in grocery getter 2 doors, 4 doors and wagons as well for the hottest street cars of the mid to late 80's - GNX. The 85 and newer Monte SS, 442 and GNX transmissions were tuned for performance and were built to handle more than double of the grocery getter transmission because they had to warranty them.
Setting the cable via the factory setting procedure should yield correct results if you car meets the criteria I listed above. Let's say it doesn't, which occurs frequently on 30+ year old transmissions. The next step in identifying an issue is with a line pressure gauge. On the driver side front of the transmission midway up the side about 6" back from the bellhousing mounting area there is an 1/8" NPT plug. The factory used a hex headed plug. Remove that plug and install a hydraulic line rated at 300+ psi and attach a gauge rated at a minimum of 300 psi. The hose needs to be long enough to reach inside the car or long enough to tape the gauge to the windshield. From there line pressure needs to be checked in every gear at idle and recorded. And also while driving and recorded at cruise speed, mild tip in to accelerate from a stop and at WOT. There is documentation in ATSG manuals that are easily found and purchased as well as on the interwebs indicating where these pressures should be for stock t200's. Once the line pressures are checked, the next step of the diagnostics can take place. Of course most of this is completely unnecessary if some basic inspections fail - such as fluid looks like motor oil and smells like a campfire, oil running out of the front seal when put in gear, extremely delayed gear accessing, or slipping when driving.
Please answer my questions and we'll get you headed in the right direction