Under dash wiring. Please look.

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bigjoenvegas

Master Mechanic
Dec 2, 2009
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Las Vegas, NV
Ok, so I pulled my dash and while I am waiting to get another one, I need to fix the wiring. Here are some pictures of what I have found. I have no horn, dome or turn signals. I do have brake lights, running lights and hazards. The hazards keep flashing though. The hazard button did break off on the column and so did the turn signal arm, so I do need to get a new one. There is also a thick red wire (constant hot) spliced into a purple wire on the column and a ground hook up on the firewall. Also, there are a few connections just hanging. It's really getting at me! The guy had speaker wire hooked up for the electrical! What a moron ( me and the wifey same maroon)! Anyways, here are a few pictures for everyone. Please help me out if you can. Thanks. Sorry but I am not the greatest at electrical but I am mechanically inclined. I guess Lol.
 

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This is what the other purple wire is conected to. Should I just remove the orange wire and pig tail and connect the purples together? What was this connection for?
 

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Why not just get another harness? Probably be much easier to do that than probably end up having never ending electrical problems down the road.

I have one that I am pretty sure is all intact that you can have for the cost of shipping.
 
Looks like it was for a starter kill relay that an alarm uses, not all too uncommon with alarm installs. Where that purple wire is cut, is there another heavy gauge wire that goes to that black plug that's connected to another purple wire? If it is then you should be able to splice the purple wire back together... or... if you think you'll be putting an alarm back in, just plug a regular SPDT relay in (common, maybe a few bucks) and it should start right up.

If the hazard blinkers stay going then that switch is probably stuck in the on position (pushed in). Most GM cars with that type of steering column (most anything from the '80s/early '90s) will have the same push/pull hazard switch, and you can go to a junkyard for the replacement black parts and screw (there is a small philips screw that holds the switch in place). If the internal switch isn't broken, you may be able to just thread the new screw in and pull the switch to the off position.

For the blinkers, is it just the lever on the outside that's broken, or are the actual internals of the switch broken? The stalk on the outside can be replaced without taking apart the upper portion of the column, but if the internals do need replacing you will need a lock collar tool to get access to the internals (you can rent one at Autozone).
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http://www.carcraft.com/howto/56459/index.html
 
find yourself a cutlass electrical manual.they're all over the internet.i have a electrical and chassis manual.they are the best investment i have made
 
The connection with the orange wire is conected to the purple wire going into the loom and I have the red from the engine bay connected to the purple at the column.
 
bigjoenvegas said:
Really! That would be sweet! Just bolt it up to the firewall in place of the other one? My area code is 89146. Pm me.

I will send you a pm when I get it out and I will send some pics of it.
 
I agree with Doober. The purple is the starter wire and should be reconnected. Is the red hot? With the key in start position? If so maybe there was an issue with the ignition switch or something and it's jury-rigged to get around the problem. Where does the red wire lead to? Battery? Starter? A new harness is nice but the book is better.
 
Yes, if the red wire is run to the engine compartment they likely didn't know what they were doing and just ran a completely separate wire from the original starter wire. That purple should go to the junction block that goes through the firewall (directly behind the fuse panel), then over to the starter.
 
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