Vacuum Pump Brake Bleeding

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pontiacgp

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Mar 31, 2006
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Kitchener, Ontario
ripley's believe it or not time.....I have never bled brakes with a vacuum pump, tried it yesterday and got lots of air but little fluid so I went online and and found two methods to stop air sneaking past the threads on the bleeders. One is with grease and the other with teflon tape. Which method do you guys use?

thanks
 
I quit using my vacuum bleeder pump. I just use the reservoir that came with it, now. Crack the bleeder, let it drip/gravity bleed into the jug a while (until the tube is submerged), raise the jug above the bleeder screw and hang it in the wheelwell, slowly push the pedal down 3-4 times, and close the bleeder.
 
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I have been using the one man "Club" manual brake bleeding system for many years, pump it a few times then put the club between the seat and brake peddle with it in locked position and let it ratchet down with the brake peddle on the last pump and it will lock the pedal down and after bleeding just turn the key to release and do the same thing for the next corner but top off your fluid first.
1571070053620.png
 
Steve,
I've used the vacuum pump method for years, but believe it or not, I've been using speed bleeders lately. The bleeders have a coating on the threads that allegedly help eliminate air getting past the threads....sort of acting like Teflon tape. I've actually found that method to be quite effective. I just use a length of hose into a small container. I get in the car and pump the pedal myself. . No muss, no fuss.

I sometimes use the Mity-vac on occasion. Sometimes it works okay, sometimes not as well.
I've always wanted to make (and try) a pressure bleeder using a small garden sprayer. It seems like a good method.
 
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2 person, pump up, hold, open bleeder, floor, close bleeder repeat.

or I use this

sea_tp6903.v2.jpg
 
Anyone else try the reverse bleeder from napa?

Did a complete rebuild of the brake system on my 1980 cutlass with all new lines and master cyl. Pedal is firm and stops nicely.
 
Anyone else try the reverse bleeder from napa?

Did a complete rebuild of the brake system on my 1980 cutlass with all new lines and master cyl. Pedal is firm and stops nicely.
Description?
 
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Here is a pic of the box. This tool attaches to a bottle of brake fluid and pushes the fluid from the bleeder screw to the master cylinder.

Just like other methods to bleed brakes, start at the furthest bleeder screw from the master cylinder and work toward closest.
51nUvV1jjNL._AC_SY400_MSAWEBPEXP_.jpg
 
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Steve,
I've used the vacuum pump method for years, but believe it or not, I've been using speed bleeders lately. The bleeders have a coating on the threads that allegedly help eliminate air getting past the threads....sort of acting like Teflon tape. I've actually found that method to be quite effective. I just use a length of hose into a small container. I get in the car and pump the pedal myself. . No muss, no fuss.

I sometimes use the Mity-vac on occasion. Sometimes it works okay, sometimes not as well.
I've always wanted to make (and try) a pressure bleeder using a small garden sprayer. It seems like a good method.

I bought some speed bleeders for the calipers but couldn't find them for the wheel cylinders. One of the speed bleeders stripped so easily I thought it was made out of plastic. The speed beeders are hard to find and are $22 so I'm going to see if they will replace the stripped one. With the Milty-vc I tried the teflon tape which was useless but the grease seemed to help. Then my grandson showed up and he pumped the brakes
 
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thanks for all the replies, Teflon tape was useless but the grease seemed to work. Fully thing was when I installed the manual master after I blench bleed I gravity bleed all the brakes and the brake fluid flowed out of each bleeder but now the rear brakes would not gravity bleed and I was on my own so I thought I would give the vacuum bleeding a try for the first and last time
 
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