Vacuum question

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Do you have a gauge on your vacuum canister so you can read the stored vacuum?
And also make sure your check valve at the canister and at the master cylinder are both holding vacuum.
Everything is brand new only a few hundred miles on the parts, so I'd assume they are fine. Does advancing the timing make more idle vacuum ? I think my only solution is the electric vacuum pump I've been dealing with this issue for a while.
 
Just now seeing this....as Jared said I'm running an electric vacuum pump that i have mounted on the trunk ledge. I have a 3/8" vacuum line running straight to the booster as the pump doesn't require an engine vacuum source.
The unit i have is a CVR brand with summits name on it which saved a few bucks....it's compact, self contained with the relay and valve built in to prevent unnecessary wiring. It will maintain at least 18" of vacuum and shut off at 22"....i have it wired to a toggle switch so that i control the power.
No joke....after adding this pump my 355sbc powered cutlass with a choppy cam stopped better than my 07 mazda 6 daily driver!!!!
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Meant to mention....i have the vacuum line tucked along the driver side rail and it just hooks into the booster port as to keep it somewhat hidden. The pump can be mounted in the engine compartment if you have the real estate and don't mind it being there. However, i put alot of time into tidying up my bay and didn't want anything in there other than the engine and only the necessary wiring to run the efi.
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I have a 3/8" vacuum line running straight to the booster as the pump doesn't require an engine vacuum source, I have it wired to a toggle switch so that I control the power.
I am curious what you feel is the advantage to why you set this up this way since the directions for this say it goes inline for the vacuum source (so it can sense low vacuum) and turns on automatically when it goes below 15 lbs so it would need power constantly to function correctly.
So I am guessing you turn your toggle switch on when you start your car.
 
I am curious what you feel is the advantage to why you set this up this way since the directions for this say it goes inline for the vacuum source (so it can sense low vacuum) and turns on automatically when it goes below 15 lbs so it would need power constantly to function correctly.
So I am guessing you turn your toggle switch on when you start your car.
Correct. If I am just running the car in the driveway or garage letting it warm up or adjusring anything i leave it off. If i know im gonna hit the road then i just turn it on via the switch and it operates accordingly and will run until 22" is met, then it shuts itself off and cycles based on demand required by the booster.
I'm debating on wiring it to the brake switch when i get my new motor back in as that's easy to do. Just as a personal preference i like having the pump and my fans powered through a lighted switch as i constantly monitor gauges and such and can just flick em on or off at will.
 
I'm debating on wiring it to the brake switch when i get my new motor back in as that's easy to do.
I could be wrong but I would be worried about doing that since I can't imagine it could build up pressure fast enough in a panic stop, if your current set up works for you I would probably leave it.
 
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I could be wrong but I would be worried about doing that since I can't imagine it could build up pressure fast enough in a panic stop, if your current set up works for you I would probably leave it.
And that my friend is the main reason I haven't wired it inline with the brake switch! I actually have that fear in the event of a panic stop it not building vacuum quick enough.
However, i am contemplating on putting a resevoir can somewhere so it can store the vacuum. I had one years back thinking it would fix the issue the OP is having, but it didn't do squat! I've gotta buddy with the older style electric pump and he has a can inline for extra measure that way there is a little amount stored before te pump activates.
Good point brought up...hope the OP will figure out a solution because i recall the low vacuum crappy brakes via the lopey cam and it's scary sh*t to hit the brakes and nothing happen!
 
I tried the canister first and left it in place and once the engines and cams got larger I added my pulley driven vacuum pump and even though I don't need the canister with the constant 28" of vacuum that it pulls it does give me an extra reserve of vacuum.
 
And that my friend is the main reason I haven't wired it inline with the brake switch! I actually have that fear in the event of a panic stop it not building vacuum quick enough.
However, i am contemplating on putting a resevoir can somewhere so it can store the vacuum. I had one years back thinking it would fix the issue the OP is having, but it didn't do squat! I've gotta buddy with the older style electric pump and he has a can inline for extra measure that way there is a little amount stored before te pump activates.
Good point brought up...hope the OP will figure out a solution because i recall the low vacuum crappy brakes via the lopey cam and it's scary sh*t to hit the brakes and nothing happen!
Yeah does your pump also look like this one that jegs sticker is on?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performa...4&cadevice=m&gclid=CJvqvYX_gdECFQO2wAod2hEAog

I'm thinking about getting this one since it's on sale?
 
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