Ok appreciate the good information I’ll just have my driveshaft shorten about 1.5”’s
Wagon 8.5 swap
- Thread starter blackbuck350
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I just went through this. A shop might tell you that its going to cost you the same amount to shorten the existing driveshaft as build a new one. The issue if they shorten the one you have is that they are going to need one new yoke and are likely not going to try to balance it with the existing U joints since they don't know the condition (and most of the shake is due to runout) so expect them to put new U joints in too.
A new 48.5" long 1350 driveshaft was $400 for me at a local driveline shop that did a lot of truck stuff. It seemed outrageous but I checked and parts alone were $180. By the time you add in tax and 2 or 3 hours of labor to build it, thats where you end up. Granted you might not need a heavy duty 1350 series part, but just FYI.
Another good bet is to look on car-part or salvage yards for vehicles that have the correct length driveshaft. Heck, I just searched and a mustang shaft is the right length and $300 new which might be a tough price to beat locally.
You can go this route too, it's cheap, but its not balanced.
www.speedwaymotors.com
A new 48.5" long 1350 driveshaft was $400 for me at a local driveline shop that did a lot of truck stuff. It seemed outrageous but I checked and parts alone were $180. By the time you add in tax and 2 or 3 hours of labor to build it, thats where you end up. Granted you might not need a heavy duty 1350 series part, but just FYI.
Another good bet is to look on car-part or salvage yards for vehicles that have the correct length driveshaft. Heck, I just searched and a mustang shaft is the right length and $300 new which might be a tough price to beat locally.
You can go this route too, it's cheap, but its not balanced.
Speedway 52-1/2 Inch 1310-Series Drive Shaft & U-Joints Kit
Kit Includes: (2) Speedway 1310 Series Chevy to Chevy U-Joint (1) Speedway 1310-Series Steel Drive Shaft Speedway 1310 Series Chevy to Chevy U-Joint High quality, heat treated forged steel replacement U-joints. Comes with outside retaining clips and can be greased. Yoke U-Joint Series: 1310 Yoke...
www.speedwaymotors.com
If I go with the one from speedway will it need to be balanced?I just went through this. A shop might tell you that its going to cost you the same amount to shorten the existing driveshaft as build a new one. The issue if they shorten the one you have is that they are going to need one new yoke and are likely not going to try to balance it with the existing U joints since they don't know the condition (and most of the shake is due to runout) so expect them to put new U joints in too.
A new 48.5" long 1350 driveshaft was $400 for me at a local driveline shop that did a lot of truck stuff. It seemed outrageous but I checked and parts alone were $180. By the time you add in tax and 2 or 3 hours of labor to build it, thats where you end up. Granted you might not need a heavy duty 1350 series part, but just FYI.
Another good bet is to look on car-part or salvage yards for vehicles that have the correct length driveshaft. Heck, I just searched and a mustang shaft is the right length and $300 new which might be a tough price to beat locally.
You can go this route too, it's cheap, but its not balanced.
Speedway 52-1/2 Inch 1310-Series Drive Shaft & U-Joints Kit
Kit Includes: (2) Speedway 1310 Series Chevy to Chevy U-Joint (1) Speedway 1310-Series Steel Drive Shaft Speedway 1310 Series Chevy to Chevy U-Joint High quality, heat treated forged steel replacement U-joints. Comes with outside retaining clips and can be greased. Yoke U-Joint Series: 1310 Yoke...
All driveshafts need to be balanced - every time.
If you have a reputable driveshaft builder, they will shorten a used shaft MUCH cheaper than you can buy a complete. All of the yokes will be reused if they are in re-usable condition as well as the tube. The yokes are cut off from the old shaft with a lathe type cutter.
Trust me on this part, DON'T GUESS at the length! You have your old shaft and the rear installed. You need to have the weight of the car supported on the rear axle and lower A-arm or front tires. Now climb under and stick your current driveshaft's transmission yoke into the trans as far as it can go (bottom it out)*note-the rear u-joint of the driveshaft will be setting on the ground; then line up the caps on the yoke on the diff and transmission yoke. Now measure from center of u-joint on trans yoke to center of where the rear u-joint would be on the diff yoke and deduct 1". This is the length needed for your driveshaft.
If your u-joints and yokes are good, this should be $150 or less. But most likely your U-joints will, and should, be replaced.
If you have a reputable driveshaft builder, they will shorten a used shaft MUCH cheaper than you can buy a complete. All of the yokes will be reused if they are in re-usable condition as well as the tube. The yokes are cut off from the old shaft with a lathe type cutter.
Trust me on this part, DON'T GUESS at the length! You have your old shaft and the rear installed. You need to have the weight of the car supported on the rear axle and lower A-arm or front tires. Now climb under and stick your current driveshaft's transmission yoke into the trans as far as it can go (bottom it out)*note-the rear u-joint of the driveshaft will be setting on the ground; then line up the caps on the yoke on the diff and transmission yoke. Now measure from center of u-joint on trans yoke to center of where the rear u-joint would be on the diff yoke and deduct 1". This is the length needed for your driveshaft.
If your u-joints and yokes are good, this should be $150 or less. But most likely your U-joints will, and should, be replaced.
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