Well my 86 now holds fluid and stops what's next?

[Lazarus]

Well intake gasket is holding. Still has a leak on the rad. Either its a low level sensor or a aftermarket part. Has a rubber stopper with a hoseclamp just under the neck above the trans lines.

Brakes work great. But the front end bottoms out and smashes into the pavement under full lock up. So I take it new springs are in order as well as shocks. Seems like It rides higher on the passenger side. So hopefully a saggy spring.

Now onto performance holy crap this thing sucks!! My 79 Electra coupe with a buick 350 was twice the car. Fixed the vacuum leaks took it out and mashed it probably around 35 mph "speedometer is shot" and it took literally 10-15 seconds to kick down. Then all kinda cool exhaust sounds and not one dam bit of speed increase.

Haven't pulled the plugs.wires are cheap Napa jobs but don't look that bad. Cap and rotor look ok. Not sure if it would help at all. Carb has been run what looks like years without any air cleaner. But today it was 9 degrees and it took 4 pumps and half throttle to start fired instantly and kicked down to idle in 15 seconds with no problems. Doesn't seem like the carb or plugs are culprits. Now if them vac lines are not properly attached would it cause the dog like behavior? Does sound like sh*t at full throttle. Like its trying to get up and go but is falling flat on its face. Seriously a Yugo could smoke this P.O.S
350 crate maybe in order.

 

[Lazarus]

Seriously 8 year old on a huffy bmx bike could seriously take me on the 1/8 mile drag

 

[olds307 and 403]

What motor, 3.8?

 

[Lazarus]

Sorry keep forgetting to put that in there. 307. Tried adjusting the TV cable button is froze up. Hate to throw away money on a new cable. But wide open on the carb there's no slack. Gotta get my wife out and hold it for me. Maybe carpet is holding it up. Main issue is that half of the sensors are not hooked up. Half sure the vac lines are correct. No air pump nor cats. 3" open pipes with headers so no 02 sensor. Just a mess. That being said my former toy Datsun was the same way. No performance decrease but just ate fuel. Since it kept in closed loop. Kinda lost Guessing I need all the emissions equipment working to get a good baseline on what the car has? No check engine lights and the car doesn't misfire or stalls? I really don't have any clue.

 

[drogg1]

Well if there's no O2, then the computer is probably confused as hell. Having sensors disconnected also confuses it. It controls both the idle and off-idle mixture of the carb (not WOT though) as well as the timing in the distributor. Based on what you're saying, I'm guessing the timing may not be being advanced by the computer which would cause it to revert to the constant base timing all the time and the car will run like sh*t without this advance.

The easiest fix to this may just be sticking in a non computer controlled distributor ( as well as a carburetor) and timing it appropriately. This is what most people end up doing as it may be simpler than getting the computer controlled stuff to work right without emissions, O2 sensors, etc.

This is just a guess and could be just a part of the problem.

 

[Lazarus]

Ok now I have the tubular aftermarket headers. On the passenger side there is 3 disconnected clips. One being blood red off hand. I'll snap some photos. Now could I simply drill and weld in a threaded price that accepts the 02 down on the collector? Or since its true duel do I need a crossover pipe to get a proper readout on both banks. Also what sensors are needed. Like I said I know imports and you have the throttle position, 02, head temp, coolant temp and mass airflow? Am I missing anything.
I have a Donor 400/th400 I want to keep the car on the 307. So I can do the suspension , interior, and paint and still take the wife and kid for Ice cream or a cruise night but it's not even enjoyable to ride in currently. May just throw in the towel and do the swap. Either way its a $800.00 car from deep in the ghetto. Literally it was involved in a shooting. Then left abandoned in a vacant lot. Lol sadly every inch of the car looks new underneath it so like Charlie browns Christmas tree. It needs me lmfao. Off topic but least everyone knows what I'm working with.

 

[Lazarus]

Well good news is my buddy mechanic is giving me the golden stickers. So long as I'm under 5000 miles I can have it waived year after year. Here in PA. So I'm going to remove the computer controls. What Would I need far as distributor and carborator? Like to maintain a electric choke?

 

[drogg1]

It may be kind of tough to figure out how to get it running well with the emissions and computer control unless you are willing to dig into the wiring diagrams. Here's a helpful link for wiring diagrams:

http://www.maliburacing.com/wiring.html

If you're going to remove the computer controlled stuff, you will need a a non-computer controlled distrbutor, likely with vacuum advance for a street driven car. I am not too familiar with Olds motors, but I imagine any stock distributor for a small block Olds would work. For the carb, I always recommend a Quadrajet for the best drivability and performance in a street car. However, any small Edelbrock or Holley with vacuum secondaries should work fine. You can get any of these with an electric choke.

 

[88hurstolds]

307s are not quick unless they have a 3.73 rear behind them...

 

[Lazarus]

Well since the emissions controls are so far chopped up anyway. Plus down the road I would do the engine swap removing it all anyways. Makes sense to convert it over. Plus with the waiver I should be legal. Just hate trying to find a shady garage for stickers. Got my buddy but he constantly is telling me he is going to quit. Wish They let us in with the street rods. The rear end is definitely not the issue yet. Thinking more and more the crusty carb and the computer is not letting the distributor advance.