What manual trans??

[DRIVEN]

You could used the same adapter that is used to bolt a 700-R4 to a BOP. There are 2 versions of the MY6. One had the odd bolt pattern at the bellhousing like in hurst1979olds' link. There is a version that had the standard GM placement. I've owned both so I know they exist. There is also a cast iron as well as an aluminum cased version. They are easy to rebuild and I think the parts kits run less than $150.
I've also seen guys use Chrysler A833s with an adapter to fit a GM bellhousing. The adapters used to be sold on ebay. Not sure if they still are.
There was a version of the Toploader 3-speed used in some Pontiacs in the late '60s. If you can find that BOP bellhousing you could use the overdrive version of Ford's Toploader 4-speed. You would have to have a driveline made though.

 

[hurst1979olds]

You could used the same adapter that is used to bolt a 700-R4 to a BOP.

Wouldnt that mess up your pilot bushing? I was going to suggest that but I honestly didnt know if it was possible.

There is a version that had the standard GM placement.

That is good to know. I will have to remember that. I like the idea of this trans. Sure beats muncie prices.

 

[DRIVEN]

You could used the same adapter that is used to bolt a 700-R4 to a BOP.

Wouldnt that mess up your pilot bushing? I was going to suggest that but I honestly didnt know if it was possible.

Maybe. Depends on how thick the adapter is. It's not a combination I've personally tried but I think it would probably work.

There is a version that had the standard GM placement.

That is good to know. I will have to remember that. I like the idea of this trans. Sure beats muncie prices.

I've really been happy with it. Not ideal for the track but it shifts nice, has pretty reasonable gear spreads, and I'd probably have to try hard to break it. I think they're a good match with a torquey engine. Best advice I can give is to get EVERYTHING. One more thing; I think the front bearing retainer (where it goes through the hole in the bellhousing) has the larger truck-sized diameter. I'd have to go out and measure to be sure. I think there's enough material that you could turn it down in a lathe to make it work on a "car" bellhousing. I'll look into it and post what I find.

 

[hurst1979olds]

I just remebered The starter on the Chevy bell is on passenger side and olds on the drivers, i don't think the adapter willbwork in this application.. I don't think the Chevy bell would work and would have to find a trans with the standard pattern and use a BOP bell.

 

[DRIVEN]

Why didn't I think of that?

 

[FE3X CLONE]

This might help you out some. I had posted this in my build thread a good while back for someone else. Part numbers, rough costs, etc.

This is all for an Olds engine with a T-56 in a G-body.

Transmission:
Manufacturer: Borg Warner/ General Motors
Model: 1996 T-56
Part No.: Unknown
Dealer: N/A
Cost: $700.00 +/-

Bellhousing:
Manufacturer: McLeod
Model: SFI approved Blowproof Modular line
Part No.: 8710-15
Dealer: Summit Racing Equipment http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-8710-15/
Cost: $441.99

Note: Due to the shorter input shaft of the LT1 style T-56, this kit is necessary as it also comes with a special pilot bushing that helps support the input shaft in the crank.

Flywheel:
Manufacturer: Oldsmobile
Part No.: Unknown
Cost: $100.00+/-

Clutch:
Manufacturer: Centerforce
Model: DFX, SFI approved
Part No.: 01148552
Dealer: Summit Racing Equipment http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-01148552/
Cost: $325.95

Note: This part number is for a Chevelle however it fits an Oldsmobile just fine.

Flywheel bolts:
Manufacturer: ARP
Model: Pro Series
Part No.: 200-2802
Dealer: Summit Racing Equipment http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-200-2802/
Cost: $13.84

Pressure Plate bolts:
Manufacturer: ARP
Model: Pro Series
Part No.: 230-2202
Dealer: Summit Racing Equipment http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-230-2202/
Cost: $25.95


Hydraulic Throw-out bearing:
Manufacturer: Weir Hot Rod Products
Model: Unknown
Part No.: Unknown
Cost: $150.00 +/-

Note: This T/O bearing was bought with a Weir Hot Rod Products bellhousing "kit" however I wanted an SFI approved steel bellhousing and decided to sell the WHRP bellhousing. I kept the T/O bearing but due to the difference in bellhousings needed to make a spacer that fit between the transmission face and T/O bearing.

Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder:
Manufacturer: General Motors
Model: N/A
Part No.: 12570277
Dealer: GMPartsdirect.com
Cost: $139.18

Note: The main body of the clutch and master cylinder are used however the braided line is discarded for an aftermarket line that doesn't have the funky quick disconnect fitting on it. An adapter fitting is available from Earl's Plumbing to join the braided stainless steel line to the GM clutch cylinder.

Clutch Pedal:
Manufacturer: John Bzdel
Model: N/A
Part No: Unknown
Dealer: John Bzdel http://www.ls7montess.com
Cost: $150.00+/-

Note: This is a clutch pedal with geometry designed to mate properly with the above LS1 clutch master cylinder. It bolts directly onto the stock automatic pedal assembly and requires that the stock brake pedal be trimmed down for clearance. It is also required to fabricate a positive stop as well as a bracket for the neutral safety switch.

Neutral Safety Switch:
Manufacturer: General Motors
Model: N/A
Part No.: Unknown
Dealer: Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, O'reily's, etc.
Cost: $7.00 +/-

Note: This is a NSS from a 3rd generation ('82-'92) GM F-body.

Transmission Crossmember:
Manufacturer: 'Iceman'
Model: T-56 dual hump
Part No.: Unknown
Dealer: 'Iceman'
Cost: $150.00+/-

Transmission Yoke:
Manufacturer: Strange Engineering
Model: N/A
Part No.: Depends on application
Dealer: Summit Racing Equipment
Cost: $50.00+/-

Note: The T-56 takes the same transmission yoke as a TH-2004R, TH-350, etc. I didn't include a part number or model as it depends on what size U-joints your running. In my case I have the 1350 series.

 

[84dragcutlass]

That's a good list, very helpful

 

[DRIVEN]

FE3X, Do you know if there is a mechanical speedo conversion for the T56 or will an electric speedo or Cable X be necessary?

 

[FE3X CLONE]

I haven't looked into the speedo issue too much since I was using an electronic speedo but I do know that if they don't make a specific T-56 mechanical speedo conversion that you can get a an adapter box that will convert the electronic signal to mechanical.

http://www.abbott-tach.com/cablex.htm

But for the price, you'd probably be better off just converting to an electronic speedo.

Also, double check some of the info I posted above before ordering anything. I did notice that it appears McLeod may not make that Bellhousing any longer. They do still list one for a T-56 behind an Olds/Pontiac however it is for an LS1 style T-56 and NOT they LT1 T-56.
The LT1 T-56 (like I have) uses a shorter input shaft than the late LS1 style. The LS1 T-56 would be the best option to use anyway because it's input shaft is of the same length (or closer to it anyway) as the older manual transmissions like the Muncie.

 

[85GPLef41]

i've read nothing but issues witht the cable x box.. I decided to go this route once i get started with the swap:
http://www.t56cablespeedometer.com/ more reasonable then most places ie speedscene etc etc besides Dan is a very helpful and answered all my newbie ?? without issues, also will be using the John Bzedel pedal for my swap who also is very helpful