what year is my engine?

[beermonkey9417]

well those books you brought up looked so good i went and bought them. now i just gotta wait till they arrive in the mail. i know the basics of engines and how they work and sometimes dont, but i think i need to read up on alot i apparently dont know. well thanx to all you people who've helped me figure out my engine is the best of the crap. i also bought a book on how to build hp on a budget. so im thinkin alot of junkyard work, but thats ok, i like gettin dirty. it would be nice if i could find a good non ccc engine in the pick in pull, but i gotta do some learnin first.

 

[beeterolds]

and the point of your post is?!?!?!?!? whatcha trying figure out there buddy ?

 

[beermonkey9417]

im not sure eather, i think i was drunk and bored. the post was in the begining to find out what year my engine was made to find out what i needed to "go fast". now i know my engine wont "go fast" so now that i know, im just ranting i think.

 

[beermonkey9417]

well since im going to replace the upper gaskets and take my heads off i was thinkin about porting and polishing my own heads. i got a dremil and im pritty good with it. then after that i can take it to get a valve job. i also wanna get some 1.6 rockers with a roller tip and most likely ill have to replace my pushrods. while i have my heads off how would i go about checking the valve springs to see if there good? i wanna have the engine running better than the stock 200 hp. and what about trading in the timing chain for a timing gear, would that get rid of the timing going out of whack from chain stretch? oh and i did have a question about the headers: i need some new ones because i found holes in them when i seafoamed my engine. what are my options?

 

[Doober]

You shouldn't have to replace pushrods with roller rockers, if it's a stock or near-stock rebuild you'll be fine with the original pushrods, just roll them on a flat surface to make sure they're true (straight), and replace any that aren't or have broken/galled tips.

A gear drive will be somewhat noisy and will probably hold timing a bit longer than a timing chain, but you also have the option of a double/true roller chain that's a little more robust than a standard timing chain.

Far as porting, best option would probably be to just take out the casting flash & smooth the ports a little... if you're doing that it may be a good idea to gasket-match them to the intake gaskets as well, should help the engine run a little better (little/no turbulence going into the intake port).

 

[beermonkey9417]

yeah thats what i was thinking, just get rid of all the lil bumps

 

[beermonkey9417]

well i got new 416 heads and got them bolted on and the new headers aswell. all i need sofar is to get is some 1.6 roller rockers, push rods and clean and rebuild my carb and distributor. whew! i hope to get rid of a 3rd car im trying to sell. speaking of which, can i post in the for sale/wanted part a non gbody? cuz i realy need this car gone...

 

[custom442]

Re:

beermonkey - invest 30$ in new pushrods for whichever build you go with.

And did I read this right, you have a 307. & you're lookin for a 383 kit? Do you already have your 350? I have the same eagle cast kit in mine, they're rated up to 500-550 hp, but you'll need a good quality block if you want to push it that much.

 

[beermonkey9417]

as soon as the satty is sold, i got a whoole shopping list for parts for the engine and almost everything else. push rods, rockers, distributer rebuild kit, bushings, suspention, and MAYBE rims and tires. and its still a sbc 307, no 350 anytime soon.

 

[phantom]

Don't get too crazy grinding on your heads you can actually make them worse if you don't kno the correct locations to grind. Pick your self up a book and concentrate on doing a good bowl port job. Start from the bottom
Make sure the cylinders arn't out of round and out of taper spec. if so have then bore and TP honed. Then hardend=ed rod bolts recon the rods and and and and