Yeah, when I want to do a cheapie paint job I usually use white. The last two I did cost me $300 and $500, both done with PPG's shitty OMNI Acrylic urethane single stage paint. My AMC required a few panels and cost me $300, while my beater Nissan work truck required a new tailight ( $25 on Ebay), new window seals ( $150 on the net), a set of door strikers, 2k primer, etc and cost me $400-500. Both cars had their jambs done ( the truck was done in it's factory QM-1 Cloud White, but I hate overspray and half painted stickers in the jambs). The truck was painted with the bumpers, door windows, weatherstripping, tailights, turn signals, grille, and mirrors removed and the tailgate and hood were both done off the car since it allowed me to eliminate any masking lines. Both were just beater jobs, so the truck only took about 70 hours of prep; the AMC took longer because I had to weld in a few patch panels. The Olds was too far gone to do quickly and be able to live with it, and required 13 or 14 patches to be welded in, most of them in the roof. The windshield was also shot, and it leaked water, the back window rattled because it came unglued, the driver's door suffered from metal fatigue and rust and was replaced,The driver's hinge was worn out where it held it open and slammed on my ankles, the passenger's side door was rusty and scarred from a road rage incident, the trunk lid was banged up, the hood was rusted out from the inside, the header panel was cracked, back bumper rusted out, etc. I also had rust in the floor in the driver's side foot well and ground it down and then acid etched it followed by a fiberglass job I am not proud of. However, I can see through it and it has not rusted under it again. It was just badly pitted and had only a few pinholes. I also eliminated the Landau top and changed the quarter windows as well as using All-Metal to fill in the seams where the top had been. I'll also clarify that I do not use a lot of filler thickness unless absolutely necessary and have only one area more that 1/8 in thick. It was my old, beat up pizza delivery car with 240k miles when I started the bodywork. As such, I skimmed large areas rather than fixing individual minor blemishes as it tends to come out more uniformly if you do that. Many of these places have filler so thin you can see through it when I am finished sanding it. It's arrow straight where it is finished, but the paint I laid on 3 years ago went bad with a peeling clear coat. I spent an extra $300 for the Diamont this time over the cheaper Omni I used last time. It's cheaper to buy better now than do it again a short time later. I also had this problem with the Mustang Convertible I did for a friend at around the same time-the inexpensive paint didn't turn out to be cheaper.
Oh, on the AE86 Corolla, there are two names for it in Japan depending on the bodystyle, just like the S13 is either a Silvia or 180sx depending on the body. One is called the Trueno and the other the Sprinter. I forget which is which, but I do know the GTS model in the US had the 4AGE DOHC 1.6 liter 4. This is the same engine used in both the Corolla FX/16 and the Mk 1 MR2. The MR2 was interestingly available with a factory Eaton supercharger that had a computer controlled clutch that could switch it on and off-Mad Max style! I have no idea how it gets it's airflow with it disengaged, but it is a cool little factoid. Another factoid no one cares about is that the slang term for the AE-86 is Hatchi-Roku, the Japanese words for the number 86. Also, for such a popular drift car, I find it funny that it has a live axle and not an IRS as most import enthusiasts tend to turn their noses up at a live axle.
