Im seriously thinking about getting one, reading plugs properly has become somewhat of a hasle and time consuming, especially with todays fuel, its not the same as when we used to run leaded..... anyone currently using one and was it hard finding the correct mounting location with the tight room under malibus for the oxygen sensor?
The one im interested in - https://www.aemelectronics.com/prod...ies-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge
This will be for setting up my ZZ4 long block crate engine thats currently topped with a Holley 650(0-80783C) vacuum secondary 4150 style carburator. At the moment, im going by seat of the pants feel(butt dyno), since holley carbs are set at sea level @ 70degrees, im currently at 650ft above and 20degrees warmer here in TX, now 30degrees warmer, no thanks to this 100degree heat wave currently, so i went down just one jet size from stock in the primary and secondary side(67/73 to 66/72) and using the plain vac secondary spring for now. This is nothing more than just a conserative street tune, i havent done any WOT tests yet just to keep the engine safe, i wanted to see how it runs on the street as well as on the highway doing the posted speed limit. The GM recomended ac delco "mr43lts" plugs look great, the 10degree initial timing mark on the ground strap is where its supposed to be(tip above center electrode), the total timing mark comes later(idealy at the arch location) after a WOT run, the center porcelan is white(clean), the entire flat ring at the bottom of the threads that surrounds the center porcelan is a semi dark tan color, all good signs of not too rich and not too lean, like in between, from what i've read and seen online. Im using a 9.5HG power valve in place of the stock 6.5HG power valve, the lower numbered PV just wasnt opening for enrichment when the engine needed it too that made the engine somewhat sluggish and that lack of power feeling. If ya'll wondering how i came to using the current PV, i took my 60mph highway cruising speed vacuum reading of 15HG, divided that by two(7.5HG), then added two(9.5HG), found that info in other HiPerf car/engine forums, the holley method is incorrect(vacuum at idle in nuetral with stick shift or in drive with an automatic and divide by two), probably fine if you are using a much more agressive camshaft or otherwise near or at WOT all the time, mine is not(208/221@112ls). This alternate method has worked out perfect for me, now the highway throttle response is much better as the light cruising on the street, but overall, if feels great, with my foot barely on the pedal, i found myself doing 70mph quite easily now, almost effortless and secondaries hasnt begun to barely open yet, according to my RPM and holley's chart for the secondary springs.
Use the AFR guage to tune for jetting, and the vacuum guage for power valve tuning, both go hand in hand for those that are not ready for fuel injection or choose not too(like me), because we all know that is cheating and taking the easy way out. 😛
Thanks
The one im interested in - https://www.aemelectronics.com/prod...ies-wideband-uego-afr-sensor-controller-gauge
This will be for setting up my ZZ4 long block crate engine thats currently topped with a Holley 650(0-80783C) vacuum secondary 4150 style carburator. At the moment, im going by seat of the pants feel(butt dyno), since holley carbs are set at sea level @ 70degrees, im currently at 650ft above and 20degrees warmer here in TX, now 30degrees warmer, no thanks to this 100degree heat wave currently, so i went down just one jet size from stock in the primary and secondary side(67/73 to 66/72) and using the plain vac secondary spring for now. This is nothing more than just a conserative street tune, i havent done any WOT tests yet just to keep the engine safe, i wanted to see how it runs on the street as well as on the highway doing the posted speed limit. The GM recomended ac delco "mr43lts" plugs look great, the 10degree initial timing mark on the ground strap is where its supposed to be(tip above center electrode), the total timing mark comes later(idealy at the arch location) after a WOT run, the center porcelan is white(clean), the entire flat ring at the bottom of the threads that surrounds the center porcelan is a semi dark tan color, all good signs of not too rich and not too lean, like in between, from what i've read and seen online. Im using a 9.5HG power valve in place of the stock 6.5HG power valve, the lower numbered PV just wasnt opening for enrichment when the engine needed it too that made the engine somewhat sluggish and that lack of power feeling. If ya'll wondering how i came to using the current PV, i took my 60mph highway cruising speed vacuum reading of 15HG, divided that by two(7.5HG), then added two(9.5HG), found that info in other HiPerf car/engine forums, the holley method is incorrect(vacuum at idle in nuetral with stick shift or in drive with an automatic and divide by two), probably fine if you are using a much more agressive camshaft or otherwise near or at WOT all the time, mine is not(208/221@112ls). This alternate method has worked out perfect for me, now the highway throttle response is much better as the light cruising on the street, but overall, if feels great, with my foot barely on the pedal, i found myself doing 70mph quite easily now, almost effortless and secondaries hasnt begun to barely open yet, according to my RPM and holley's chart for the secondary springs.
Use the AFR guage to tune for jetting, and the vacuum guage for power valve tuning, both go hand in hand for those that are not ready for fuel injection or choose not too(like me), because we all know that is cheating and taking the easy way out. 😛
Thanks
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