Exhaust manifold question

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Insubordination

Apprentice
Jan 13, 2012
72
1
8
Norway
Hello good community.

This time I have a problem concering my exhaust manifold on the passenger side on my Olds 350 engine.

On the flange of the manifold - the one that connects to the pipe heading back and out - I seem to have one "extra" cast iron flange thingy. I can't seem to locate this in my service manual when studying the exhaust system, and I most certainly have a leak from there.

Here, pictures speak better etc:

Looking down from top. It is connected to the manifold with one stud that doesn't seem to be removable, hence it's swiveled out of alignment in this picture:

imag0075x.jpg


From the underside of the car. Here the stud is more visible:

imag0076t.jpg


imag0077af.jpg


It's not showing up in the manual, and I'm fairly certain the leak comes from the flat part where the manifold meets this extra thing.

Is it supposed to be there? Do I use two doughnut gaskets here - one on top and one on bottom? No idea if the manifolds are original. Old diesel car, converted to a gasoline engine. Manifolds might be from diesel car. It's a crossover system.

Thanks in advance.
 
That's a ..... ?? Its was used to keep heat in the motor during start ups/ warm ups. Yours looks like to be disconnected /modified for better exhaust flow. And yes there's a flat gasket that's supposed to be there.
 
Blue Knight said:
That's a ..... ?? Its was used to keep heat in the motor during start ups/ warm ups. Yours looks like to be disconnected /modified for better exhaust flow. And yes there's a flat gasket that's supposed to be there.

Ah, thank you. So in other words, it's not needed and can be removed? Don't know if I'm able to be because of that stud though.
 
Blue Knight said:
No you don't "need" it but the only way to get rid of it is to run headers. I've never seen a half doughnut gasket.

Half a doughnut? The gasket seems to fit the manifold perfect when I turn it out of the way.

EDIT: Better pictures. Just removed the manifold from the car.

In place:
imag0080fo.jpg


Swiveled out:
imag0081tp.jpg
 
Never seen one of those. I have seen some with the heat riser valve. Eliminate that piece and use a donut, it is necessary. Of course headers are an even better idea, those manifolds suck along with the awful cross over setup.
 
The Hedman full length and shorties supposedly fit. The shorties need minor mods. The Flowtech full length supposedly point the collectors at the floor boards. I bought 3 sets of Sanderson headers. The set on my 88 Cutlass Classic fit nicely, put the passenger side in from the top. The driver's side fit easily from underneath. Cleared everything but I used the taller B body motor mounts. They are around $300 uncoated and will need custom down pipes. Other guys with G bodies have fit fine with the 307 clam shell mounts. Double V had 3 different sets, all had issues. The American Racing headers are a $1000 but Stainless steel, fit properly and superior quality.
 
That is a heat riser valve, it looks like it has been gutted. The butterfly and linkage have been removed, the hole for the linkage was probably welded shut. There should be a flat gasket that goes between the valve and the manifold, and the pipe should go up against the valve. Should have a three bolt flange on the pipe, and you need the three studs with springs to mount the pipe. Correct me if I am wrong anyone?
 
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