Here is my write up on a Small Block Chevy engine swap in a Cutlass and header selection.
When I first stuck the motor in the car, I opted for a cheap set of Jegs branded shorty headers for a G body or F body car, part number 30053- the note I missed is that is says ‘made for cars that originally came with a V8’ – I know that the frame between a v-6 and a v-8 should be the same, only the motor mounts need to be moved to accept a chevy v-8 however, the headers both hit the frame rails, so Maybe I am mistaken. These headers are meant to be a replacement for a set of stock manifolds and should work with a factory y-pipe with some modifications – they are NOT a direct bolt up, so do not think that you will have an hour or two job putting these in-
Installation: when they originally went in, they were tight… You do not have much room around the frame, block, dipstick tube (I have a passenger side dipstick motor), and steering. I scratched my headers up putting them in… I really didn’t care if they got scratched. IF you decide to use these with a true dual exhaust, the drivers side header needs some creative piping to make the 90 degree bend at the bottom. I was unhappy with how it came out. I had to make my own by making a 30 degree cut in a pipe, swiveling it to make a 60 degree bend, then making another 15 degree cut, swiveling it and welding it to complete the 90 degree bend in less than 4” – it was ugly, did not flow well, and made it hard to get the flange bolts in. Another note, the gaskets they supply are pretty crappy. If you go with these headers, do yourself a favor and get the MR gasket rectangle port header gaskets (I bought them from Auto Zone- I can get the PN) and MR. Gasket Collector gaskets- anyway, I was not happy with these..
Do yourself a favor, save up for a set of FlowTech Afterburner headers. They cost about $205 from summit, and the shipping was free because they were over $100. (Still get the MR gasket rectangle port header gaskets (I bought them from Auto Zone- I can get the PN) and MR. Gasket Collector gaskets). The headers are the balls! It took me longer to get the old headers ff the car than to install the new ones! They both slid in from the top, and I only had to clearance one tiny section where the pass side pipe just touched the upper control arm. Otherwise, the easiest install I have ever done- the fit of the headers could not have been any better. I also opted this time around to put some flex joints in my exhaust to try to keep the header flanges straight, and hopefully reduce the chance of blowing out a collector gasket. This was a pretty nice add IMO, the flex joints were about $27 a piece from Auto Zone (had to go to 2 stores to get them in one day lol) – so here are some install pics and clearance areas with these headers. I have to say, as soon as I started the car, it ran better. These headers have larger primary tubes, and the extra scavenging effect of the headers is worth the money. I haven’t put any miles on it yet, but I will let you know how the drivability is. Now to get my transmission fixed…
When I first stuck the motor in the car, I opted for a cheap set of Jegs branded shorty headers for a G body or F body car, part number 30053- the note I missed is that is says ‘made for cars that originally came with a V8’ – I know that the frame between a v-6 and a v-8 should be the same, only the motor mounts need to be moved to accept a chevy v-8 however, the headers both hit the frame rails, so Maybe I am mistaken. These headers are meant to be a replacement for a set of stock manifolds and should work with a factory y-pipe with some modifications – they are NOT a direct bolt up, so do not think that you will have an hour or two job putting these in-
Installation: when they originally went in, they were tight… You do not have much room around the frame, block, dipstick tube (I have a passenger side dipstick motor), and steering. I scratched my headers up putting them in… I really didn’t care if they got scratched. IF you decide to use these with a true dual exhaust, the drivers side header needs some creative piping to make the 90 degree bend at the bottom. I was unhappy with how it came out. I had to make my own by making a 30 degree cut in a pipe, swiveling it to make a 60 degree bend, then making another 15 degree cut, swiveling it and welding it to complete the 90 degree bend in less than 4” – it was ugly, did not flow well, and made it hard to get the flange bolts in. Another note, the gaskets they supply are pretty crappy. If you go with these headers, do yourself a favor and get the MR gasket rectangle port header gaskets (I bought them from Auto Zone- I can get the PN) and MR. Gasket Collector gaskets- anyway, I was not happy with these..
Do yourself a favor, save up for a set of FlowTech Afterburner headers. They cost about $205 from summit, and the shipping was free because they were over $100. (Still get the MR gasket rectangle port header gaskets (I bought them from Auto Zone- I can get the PN) and MR. Gasket Collector gaskets). The headers are the balls! It took me longer to get the old headers ff the car than to install the new ones! They both slid in from the top, and I only had to clearance one tiny section where the pass side pipe just touched the upper control arm. Otherwise, the easiest install I have ever done- the fit of the headers could not have been any better. I also opted this time around to put some flex joints in my exhaust to try to keep the header flanges straight, and hopefully reduce the chance of blowing out a collector gasket. This was a pretty nice add IMO, the flex joints were about $27 a piece from Auto Zone (had to go to 2 stores to get them in one day lol) – so here are some install pics and clearance areas with these headers. I have to say, as soon as I started the car, it ran better. These headers have larger primary tubes, and the extra scavenging effect of the headers is worth the money. I haven’t put any miles on it yet, but I will let you know how the drivability is. Now to get my transmission fixed…
