BUILD THREAD 84 Regal back half/caged/mini tubbed lq4/4l80e build
- Thread starter Roblq84
- Start date
When I seen you mentioned that it was seeing speed at idle, not moving I was going to mention that you probably have the input shaft speed and vehicle speed sensors swapped.
FWIW, I live on Drag Lites - I have three sets (recently grabbed another set) for street tires, drag radials, and slicks. You should have no concern about their safety as long as you have proper wheel bolt engagement.
Regarding the breaking up, you need to review a datalog, but my 1st guess would be fuel pressure is nosing over. I seen you're using a Corvette style fuel filter/regulator with the return in in it. Ummm, I usually refer to those as 'damn Corvette filter'. I've remote tuned two cars with those and they create issues with Holley for most any motor is boosted or a fair amount hotter than stock. I'm not saying that is your issue, but I'm confident that it's not helping you.
I assumed a 2wd pullout would have already been ready to go, and by the grime on it, and not freshly cleaned, i never would have guessed it was switched or some one messed with it, I definitely overlooked it. I thought it was just the fitech speedo calibration needed adjustment, but I’m also not that familiar with 4l80 until doing lots of research and reading and it finally clicked staring at my ceiling keeping me up at night 🤣
And yeah, they are nice, super light, but the back rims are overkill for me anyway, they’re like 15 inch wide, plus with New Jersey potholes they’re just going to get destroyed or bent at some point anyway, I got them used, the bolt holes may be wallowed out from years of abuse
Thanks again!
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I don’t think I was clear. Both sensors and sensor connectors are the same, one is towards the front of the trans and the VSS is towards the rear. I’m curious if the FiTech datalogs input shaft speed?
Holley does and it’s extremely handy for determining converter slip %. The input shaft speed divided by rpm is converter slip %. It makes it simple to see where the converter is grabbing and where it isn’t.
Holley does and it’s extremely handy for determining converter slip %. The input shaft speed divided by rpm is converter slip %. It makes it simple to see where the converter is grabbing and where it isn’t.
I understand completely, my bad, I reworded my previous post lol, to clarify what I meant by “threw me off” as in seeing the sensor in the trans and assuming it was the way it’s supposed to be since it had a 2wd tail shaft housing, not in regards to what you said about checking the sensors, you are more than helpful and I appreciate the input completely, sorry for the misunderstanding
the fitech only uses the VSS plug at the rear, it was just a one off issue with the trans I purchased, it had to have been 4wd and had the vss in the transfer case and they switched the tail housing and left the rear vss sensor with the dummy plug, or it was always in a 2wd vehicle, and some one at some point switched the sensor and dummy plug locations. 🤷🏻♂️ story of my life is finding and fixing things people messed with lol
This is the only settings it gives me regarding torque converter specifically
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Do yourself a favor and set the unlock speed 4-5mph below lockup speed to stop shuttle shifts when you’re trying to drive right at the converter lockup speed. Ask me how I know about this.
And you’ll want the converter unlocking somewhere in the area of 50% TPS. This will help the car accelerate and ‘get up’ on the converter. For a boosted application that needs to be a bunch lower. But my experience has found somewhere between 45-65% TPS is about right. This setting depends on vehicle weight, hp, cam, etc. But basically, when you want it to get up and go, unlocking the converter will help immensely.
And you’ll want the converter unlocking somewhere in the area of 50% TPS. This will help the car accelerate and ‘get up’ on the converter. For a boosted application that needs to be a bunch lower. But my experience has found somewhere between 45-65% TPS is about right. This setting depends on vehicle weight, hp, cam, etc. But basically, when you want it to get up and go, unlocking the converter will help immensely.
Ok, i will definitely adjust it! Thanks for the tip! Makes total sense 🙏✍🏻
Doubt anything is hurt. Regarding your issues :
Use GM manifold gaskets with orange high temp silicone between the gasket and the header. You’ll need to retighten the bolts after a heat cycle port two. Throw those that came with the headers in the garbage. Torque the bolts to 18-20ft
Cheap fans suck. Been down that trail. The Dorman fans you bought will resolve that.
Those plug wires you had are good wires. But they can’t touch anything ever. The heat sleeve cannot lay on the header or it will melt the wire like the photo you attached.
Those style intake gaskets are a pain to get sealed. There are aftermarket gaskets that can be used in unison with those gaskets that are guaranteed to seal.
Use GM manifold gaskets with orange high temp silicone between the gasket and the header. You’ll need to retighten the bolts after a heat cycle port two. Throw those that came with the headers in the garbage. Torque the bolts to 18-20ft
Cheap fans suck. Been down that trail. The Dorman fans you bought will resolve that.
Those plug wires you had are good wires. But they can’t touch anything ever. The heat sleeve cannot lay on the header or it will melt the wire like the photo you attached.
Those style intake gaskets are a pain to get sealed. There are aftermarket gaskets that can be used in unison with those gaskets that are guaranteed to seal.
The weld draglites are perfectly fine for street use. I had them on a few cars and the weld Pro stars.
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