Make sure you get any residual fluid out of your calipers before doing the dot5.1.
I think that rear should hold up fine until you decide to change it up.
I think that rear should hold up fine until you decide to change it up.
BUILD THREAD 84 Regal back half/caged/mini tubbed lq4/4l80e build
- Thread starter Roblq84
- Start date
Calipers and lines are all brand new, and have never been filled, but 5.1 is compatible with DOT 3 and 4. DOT 5 is the one you cannot mix since it’s silicon based and doesn’t mix with glycol based.
The gears are toast, extremely worn but will
Get the car moving around the block and a few test drives lol I would say the backlash is like 1/8th inch lol 🫢
I did read about the 5.1 but got it mixed up with the 5. Thanks for setting me straight.
1/8th inch !!! Holy crap. Lol
Started to piece together some body work the past 2 weeks,
Painted the tail light bezels, headlight bezels, grill, found a used header panel, got bumper fillers, and temporarily attached the bumper and mounts, I almost forgot what the car looked like.
I had a rebuilt 4l80, removed the pan, checked it all out, got the -6an banjo fittings for the cooler lines since they are better for clearence, I have a stock cross member I may modify to fit, or go with the hooker, not sure yet.
Painted the tail light bezels, headlight bezels, grill, found a used header panel, got bumper fillers, and temporarily attached the bumper and mounts, I almost forgot what the car looked like.
I had a rebuilt 4l80, removed the pan, checked it all out, got the -6an banjo fittings for the cooler lines since they are better for clearence, I have a stock cross member I may modify to fit, or go with the hooker, not sure yet.
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Read an article about those banjo fittings and how they can reduce flow. Just an FYI. Many use 90 degree fittings and hammer a little clearance to the tunnel.
I was thinking the same thing, I’ve read every page about them, and am most likely going to try to clock the bolt hole to the hole in the fitting to maybe help flow, but I can’t find anywhere that says it really hinders it, a smooth 90 would be ideal, but once I fit the trans up ill Know for sure how much clearance there actually will be 😁👍🏻
It's been awhile for me but I know one of the fittings (rear i believe) has to be a longer internal tube for proper lubrication. There are many threads out there about the restriction from banjo fittings but the one I'm looking for was specifically by an expert trans builder. May have been a magazine article 🤔
Yup, rear fitting is longer, and needs to protrude into the case, and is also the return (cooled) side, front is short and the cooler feed (hot) line
I originally had lower radiator hose gates 22373, it kind of fit, but could have been better, there was definately tension on it pulling, and was contacting the idler arm badly, the radiator outlet and thermostat outlet are both 1.5 inches
I swapped it for dayco 71321, it’s a 1.5-1.75 inlet outlet, I cut off 2.5 inches at the 1.75 end, which was right before the expansion to 1.75, which kept it 1.5 it fits perfect, clears the idler arm and frame with no contact
Popped the trans in to see how fitment is, may need to alter the driver side jegs header since it contacts the lower control arm mounting point a bit, and getting ideas for the cross member, contemplating on altering the original or just going with the hooker black heart g body ls swap, that one will also help with the dual exhaust
I swapped it for dayco 71321, it’s a 1.5-1.75 inlet outlet, I cut off 2.5 inches at the 1.75 end, which was right before the expansion to 1.75, which kept it 1.5 it fits perfect, clears the idler arm and frame with no contact
Popped the trans in to see how fitment is, may need to alter the driver side jegs header since it contacts the lower control arm mounting point a bit, and getting ideas for the cross member, contemplating on altering the original or just going with the hooker black heart g body ls swap, that one will also help with the dual exhaust
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Updates!
My circle D converter came in, went with the 245mm pro single disc billet, 3800-4000 stall, 1/8 head space, installed transmission, body mounted dipstick, acdelco dex6, arp bell housing bolts, AN-6 cooler lines to the radiator, will eventually add in an external. For the crossmember, I ended up using the Amazon one that recently came out, it’s a double hump, this thing is extremely beefy, but it fit flawless. I used the energy suspension 3.1108g trans mount, with the rubber cut flush, and not using the preload plate, it also helped lower the driveshaft angle down. I ran into clearence issues on the passenger side header hitting the frame using jegs g body ls swaps, so busted out the BFH and did some clearence work, everything lines up and sits straight with no needless stress on the tail shaft housing. I purchased a cheap 5.3 cold air intake kit, and flipped it around to the driver side using a longer 4 inch silicon elbow (there were mounting brackets I cut off, will smooth them out and repaint it) I had a custom steel 3.5 inch driveshaft made, came out to about 49 inches with 7/8 inch travel play and a spicer yoke, for the 12 bolt, I needed a conversion u joint, 1350 series in driveshaft end, and 1330 end for the pinion flange. Getting the tires swapped out tomorrow, just need to weld a shifter mounting plate inside, and install it , run the headlights, tuck some wires, and should be ready for its first test drive soon!
My circle D converter came in, went with the 245mm pro single disc billet, 3800-4000 stall, 1/8 head space, installed transmission, body mounted dipstick, acdelco dex6, arp bell housing bolts, AN-6 cooler lines to the radiator, will eventually add in an external. For the crossmember, I ended up using the Amazon one that recently came out, it’s a double hump, this thing is extremely beefy, but it fit flawless. I used the energy suspension 3.1108g trans mount, with the rubber cut flush, and not using the preload plate, it also helped lower the driveshaft angle down. I ran into clearence issues on the passenger side header hitting the frame using jegs g body ls swaps, so busted out the BFH and did some clearence work, everything lines up and sits straight with no needless stress on the tail shaft housing. I purchased a cheap 5.3 cold air intake kit, and flipped it around to the driver side using a longer 4 inch silicon elbow (there were mounting brackets I cut off, will smooth them out and repaint it) I had a custom steel 3.5 inch driveshaft made, came out to about 49 inches with 7/8 inch travel play and a spicer yoke, for the 12 bolt, I needed a conversion u joint, 1350 series in driveshaft end, and 1330 end for the pinion flange. Getting the tires swapped out tomorrow, just need to weld a shifter mounting plate inside, and install it , run the headlights, tuck some wires, and should be ready for its first test drive soon!
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