A Fabricobbler's Guide to the Turbo Buick Galaxy- Cutlass Rehash
- Thread starter 81cutlass
- Start date
No, I have Moser 30 splines in it now because it has a 30 spline carrier. This bent axle is a moser 30 spline, really surprised to see it's bent as severely as it is on the center. Tempted to give them a call and ask because I would not expect an aftermarket axle to do that.
I need to determine if 1 axle or the pair is a better value. Since I have these shafts now in my Cutlass and 2+2, if I end up with 1 spare it's probably not a bad call.
Bought new axle shafts and that solved my wiggly rotor issue. Buttoned up the brake lines and filled the rear with some 80/90
Replaced bushings in the control arms and installed the rear in the car.
I need to get the speedometer gear swapped and trans filter on and the trans can go back in the car.
Replaced bushings in the control arms and installed the rear in the car.
I need to get the speedometer gear swapped and trans filter on and the trans can go back in the car.
Swapped speedometer gears, between the 2 2004rs I had I was able to make a set that will work for a 3.73 gear
Installed trans filter
Calibrated dipstick, this is a th350 bop stick and it was 1.75" too short. Oil level should be 1/4" above the pan rail.
Installed rear and sway bar
Installed trans
Installed trans filter
Calibrated dipstick, this is a th350 bop stick and it was 1.75" too short. Oil level should be 1/4" above the pan rail.
Installed rear and sway bar
Installed trans
More diddly squat update.
Replaced the combo rubber/steel trans cooler lines dad and I built 15 years ago with some gm steel bent set I pulled outta the 2+2. The rubber hoses were too long for the 2004r as they were for the th350 I originally had in the car. Spent too much time cleaning off the goo that was stuck on but they fit much nicer and farther from the downpipe.
Put in the cross member, finished up torquing the bellhousing bolts and installed the driveshaft. Driveshaft was bought a few years back on marketplace locally out of a mcss that had a th350 and a SBC on spray so it was already the right length and 1350 u joints with a good yoke.
Slowly but surely the parts hoard is thinning out and the car is getting close to getting on the ground
Replaced the combo rubber/steel trans cooler lines dad and I built 15 years ago with some gm steel bent set I pulled outta the 2+2. The rubber hoses were too long for the 2004r as they were for the th350 I originally had in the car. Spent too much time cleaning off the goo that was stuck on but they fit much nicer and farther from the downpipe.
Put in the cross member, finished up torquing the bellhousing bolts and installed the driveshaft. Driveshaft was bought a few years back on marketplace locally out of a mcss that had a th350 and a SBC on spray so it was already the right length and 1350 u joints with a good yoke.
Slowly but surely the parts hoard is thinning out and the car is getting close to getting on the ground
Well I've been plugging away and got the car started Sunday. The wheels didn't turn but I ran out of trans fluid, the level was low, so I chocked that up to low level.
Added another few qts last night and it's full, but the wheels still don't spin.
I have great line pressure, 110psi at idle in Park and boosts up to 280psi in manual 1st, 2nd, or in any gear when the TV cable is pulled. Cooler lines got warm, pan got warm, it's definitely making flow and pressure
The trans definitely isn't 'locked up' as it did spin the wheels after it warmed up for a minute or so, I gave the engine some RPM and saw probably 40mph on the speedometer but it doesn't feel like it's firmly in gear. When I let it coast back to a stop and I moved the shifter through a few different gears and then went back to OD, it refused to turn the tires again.
It doesn't matter what gear it's in, Reverse, OD, D, manual 1 or 2, it won't go into gear, pretty disappointed.
I spent some time looking at the failure diagnosis and there isn't an obvious solution for making great line pressure but having zero gears. It boosts line pressure going into reverse and manual 1 and 2, so I feel like the gear selector is doing it's thing to send boost signal to the pressure control valves in the pump. If it wasn't boosting in gears it would be a good case for something in the gear selector being wrong. If it made little to no pressure at any time it would be a case for a significant internal leak.
If it worked in some gears but not others, it might be a case for a mechanical issue in the trans itself, but literally non of the internal components are used simultaneously for manual 1, OD, and reverse.
It's almost if the valve body internally is preventing flow to the clutch apply pistons. It could be an internal leak, but I feel if there was a significant enough leak that it wouldn't go into any gear, it wouldn't make line pressure.
I need to call Husek and pick his brain... Not what I wanted to deal with.
Added another few qts last night and it's full, but the wheels still don't spin.
I have great line pressure, 110psi at idle in Park and boosts up to 280psi in manual 1st, 2nd, or in any gear when the TV cable is pulled. Cooler lines got warm, pan got warm, it's definitely making flow and pressure
The trans definitely isn't 'locked up' as it did spin the wheels after it warmed up for a minute or so, I gave the engine some RPM and saw probably 40mph on the speedometer but it doesn't feel like it's firmly in gear. When I let it coast back to a stop and I moved the shifter through a few different gears and then went back to OD, it refused to turn the tires again.
It doesn't matter what gear it's in, Reverse, OD, D, manual 1 or 2, it won't go into gear, pretty disappointed.
I spent some time looking at the failure diagnosis and there isn't an obvious solution for making great line pressure but having zero gears. It boosts line pressure going into reverse and manual 1 and 2, so I feel like the gear selector is doing it's thing to send boost signal to the pressure control valves in the pump. If it wasn't boosting in gears it would be a good case for something in the gear selector being wrong. If it made little to no pressure at any time it would be a case for a significant internal leak.
If it worked in some gears but not others, it might be a case for a mechanical issue in the trans itself, but literally non of the internal components are used simultaneously for manual 1, OD, and reverse.
It's almost if the valve body internally is preventing flow to the clutch apply pistons. It could be an internal leak, but I feel if there was a significant enough leak that it wouldn't go into any gear, it wouldn't make line pressure.
I need to call Husek and pick his brain... Not what I wanted to deal with.
I installed a 700/4L60 which did almost the exact same thing and we never did figure it out. I had the guy that rebuilt it come check everything under the sun and even removed the valve body with it still in the truck to no avail. I then removed the transmission and he disassembled the thing right in my driveway before we reversed the process and tried again. In the end I got a refund.
Hopefully you guys can figure it out and get yours rolling, I'm interested to see what's going on in there. Good luck.
Well after soul searching (and searching my email inbox)
I was delivered the wrong converter.
Not sure if I wasn't clear to the sales guy, he didn't understand, fat fingers, IDK, but they built a 30 spline converter. I need a 27 spline. I didn't look at the invoice in detail enough to see that it said 30. Price was good, the stall was good, I assumed everything else was good.
2004R and pre 86 era 700r4 had 27 spline stuff
86-97 700r4/4l60e used 30 spline 297mm stuff
98+ 4l60e used 30 spline 300mm stuff
I got a 86-97 700r4 unit. It will physically go on a 27 spline unit, the stator shaft just sit inside the mating spline on the converter and allows the pump to spin without turning the input shaft on the trans.
I got lucky and found a thread online of someone that had a (what they assumed) was a 30 spline 88 era 700r4 in a f body. They bought a new converter and swapped it out and the car stopped moving. Turns out in the past someone had put a 83-85 era trans in that car and physically a 30 spline converter will fit right over the 27 spline unit, it just won't move.
So I'll see what the converter company does. They offer free re-stalls in the first year, maybe it's just considered a re-stall if they can swap the piece out internally?
Here's hoping.
I was delivered the wrong converter.
Not sure if I wasn't clear to the sales guy, he didn't understand, fat fingers, IDK, but they built a 30 spline converter. I need a 27 spline. I didn't look at the invoice in detail enough to see that it said 30. Price was good, the stall was good, I assumed everything else was good.
2004R and pre 86 era 700r4 had 27 spline stuff
86-97 700r4/4l60e used 30 spline 297mm stuff
98+ 4l60e used 30 spline 300mm stuff
I got a 86-97 700r4 unit. It will physically go on a 27 spline unit, the stator shaft just sit inside the mating spline on the converter and allows the pump to spin without turning the input shaft on the trans.
I got lucky and found a thread online of someone that had a (what they assumed) was a 30 spline 88 era 700r4 in a f body. They bought a new converter and swapped it out and the car stopped moving. Turns out in the past someone had put a 83-85 era trans in that car and physically a 30 spline converter will fit right over the 27 spline unit, it just won't move.
So I'll see what the converter company does. They offer free re-stalls in the first year, maybe it's just considered a re-stall if they can swap the piece out internally?
Here's hoping.
I'm so glad you figured that out man, solving that puzzle has got to feel good. I never would've thought to check that in a million years since it physically fit the input. Kudos to you!
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