Alternator Need New Bearings? Maybe Save Money By Ditching The GM Box.

69hurstolds

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Jan 2, 2006
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You know me. If I get the urge to rebuild a component on the car, it's going to be genuine GM parts if at all possible.

However, we all know GM didn't actually make very many parts for their cars in house. Body components, sure. But lift the hood. You think GM built that alternator? Ok, technically ACDelco did, who was owned by GM at the time, but you know what I mean. Still, even Delco farmed out some of the stuff on their parts, mainly stuff like bearings and fasteners.

In this case, you have a 12SI type of alternator (In the event you weren't aware, the SI = Systems Integrated. Fancy way to say the regulator is internal to the alternator.) The main two types of alternators used in our cars were, generally, the 10SI and 12SI alternators. The 10SI came in various outputs over the years and maxed out at 63 amps, and 12SI came around for the 83 model year. It had better cooling inlet ports in the back and the metal/plastic exhaust fan in the front. They also came in varying amp output ratings similar to the 10SI, but mostly G-bodies used 12SI with 78 amp rating. Interestingly, the later recommended replacement alternator for the 78 amp version was the highest rated 94 amp one as early as 1990.

Which I said all that to say this. I have some "new" Delco rebuilt alternators (like starters and ECM boxes, 99% of the alternators were rebuilt and rarely sold new for our cars over the counter back then). Still, nothing beats Delco electrical junk for GM cars. I got the alternators from the local dealership when still available, and they look all pretty and new, etc.

But then I got to thinking, I've got the original unit still on the 85. Checked the date code on it. My car was built in mid-February of '85. I was surprised to see the alternator's date code as 5A31. This translates to 1985, January 31 (Thursday). So they apparently were cranking out alternators just prior to getting the cars built during that time frame.

Anyway, I started scoping out parts to rebuild the original alternator with Delco parts. I had managed to scrape some up over the years, but figured I'd just put on a "new" Delco unit and call it a day. But even though you couldn't see the date on it without a mirror, I like the idea of keeping as many parts original to the car if I can make them appear and function as new again. So I got new rectifiers and diodes, resistor, capacitor, brushes, etc., to basically make the alternator like new again. And naturally, all the parts have been discontinued from GM.

Most of the parts I found were pretty cheap. A few bucks here, a few bucks there. One thing I did find kinda pricey, however, was the front shaft bearing. Cheapest I could find was $25. GM p/n 908419. WTF?? So I look closely at the bearing itself and see a number on it. It's an NTN bearing 6203LU. Aha! There we go.

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ACDelco # is Z99503-6. Lessee if we can find out what's what on that. Oh, look, it crosses over to Timken 6203-2RS. (2RS = 2 rubber seals)

Interestingly enough, you can buy a 2 pack of this very bearing for 11 and change at Amazon. 40mm dia. x 17mm ID, x 12mm thick. Not sure where it is made though. China? Just beware. Nothing's like it used to be.

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Or, you could buy the NTN (Japan version, later made in Taiwan, probably want the Japan version) bearing and have the SAME bearing they put in the Delco box. Oh, and it's cheap too. $12.95 plus tax on ebay.

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As far as the rear bearing, you can see the cap on the rear of the alternator housing.

Delco # MNJ711, or GM p/n 9441879. I found my bearing for like 6 bucks shipped, so I just got the GM one. But....

you can get them for fairly cheap if you know what to look for.

2098512 is the equivalent MoPar part number.

Also, Breman Bearing Company made them as well, under p/n BA613, or CNH11S1511.

And of course, the Delco is a Timken number, MNJ711. (0.936-0.937" diameter, 0.66-0.68" in length, bore diameter for shaft end 0.6694-0.6699")

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Good luck parts hunting!
 
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Bonnewagon

Lost in the Labyrinth
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That is great info. Often I can remove/regrease a bearing. If not, then identifying and sourcing one becomes necessary. But as you pointed out, GM and others usually use a generic bearing that is easy to find if you bother to do a search. I have changed regulators, diode bridges, and brushes but anything more than that and it is off to my re-builder.
 

69hurstolds

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Jan 2, 2006
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Alternators are some of the EASIEST of the electrical components to work on and put new guts in, but that's just my opinion. Just a few small sockets, can't recall offhand all the sizes, but I think 1/4" is one of them, a 15/16" wretnch, an allen key for holding the end of the shaft, a flat blade, and keeping junk clean is about all you need. Ok, you may want to torque the nut on the end of the shaft to what, about 50 lbs/ft. But that's up to you.

Before you do ANYTHING...note the clock position of the regulator. Match mark the casing halves if you can't remember. Clocking is looking at the rear of the alternator with the threaded hole at the 12 o'clock position. The regulator plug is either in the 9, 12, or 3 o'clock. You can change it if you wish, but if you want it to be the same, note it before you start.

The front bearing takes a bit of time to get out. You take the 15/16" nut off the shaft (don't lose it, it has a weird thread size, 0.668-20), remove the pulley, collars and fan parts. KEEP THEM IN ORDER! You can then carefully separate the drive end half of the casing from the stator and rotor and junk. Only 4 through-bolts. Once you slide the front half of the casing off, save any remaining collars and know where they go. Then flip the front casing over and remove the 3 bearing retainer bolts out and set the retainer aside. Then press the front bearing out, and put new bearing in. Easy Peasy. The front bearings on the 10SI and 12SI are pre-greased, sealed up, and do not require lubrication.

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From what I understand about the smaller slip ring end bearing, you press it out from the rear (after disassembly, of course). And then install it from the rear according to the CSM, steps 20 and 21. Weird, but it works. I guess they don't want you pressing on the edges of the roller bearing when removing it so you don't distort it and fugg up the bore. I'm not worried about the 15SI, that sucker didn't come on G-bodies. If you use a GM slip ring end bearing, they come pre-lubricated too, so keep them protected when messing with them to ensure they don't get dirt in them as they're not blessed with a rubber seal like the front bearings.

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69hurstolds

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A word or two about these one-wire, self-exciting alternators...why? On a street car, they have no real, practical purpose or need. It's ok to use on street rods, racers, and custom setups, but for a stock rebuild, don't waste your time converting. More headaches than what its worth. But, but, but...it's cleaner, and less wiring. I say, so what? How often do you run wiring to/from the alternator? I haven't touched my alternator in years. Plus, it's a parasitic drain if you don't have a battery disconnect.


Another point about alternator rebuilding...

IF, say, you have a nice alternator that needs a rebuild, but you want to rebuild it with Delco quality parts. Where can you get them? Sure, you can do what I've done, buy stuff from the dealerships 20-30 years ago and wherever I can scrounge up USA-made Delco parts, from swap meets, ebay, etc. It can always get a bit pricey that way, but at least you KNOW what's going in the alternator. Or, especially if you're doing a 10SI, you can go to rockauto.com or whatever, buy a reman ACDelco reman 10SI (whatever amp rating you need), for around 40-50 bucks and swap all the guts over to yours if you really want to keep your orginal casing for date codes and what not. Depends on how serious you are about saving your original and your restoration goals. Of course, if correct numbers don't mean jack to you, then just buy the correct replacement for your car and swap it in and be on your way. This info is intended for someone that's serious about alternator restoration, not just swapping out a bad for a good one. The 12SI can be done the same way, but normally, 12SI alternators are more expensive than the 10SI sometimes almost twice as much.

BUT. (A big but here) Be careful about doing the swap stuff. If you just need a nice new casing for your American-made Delco alternator, that's cool. But with the other stuff? You KNOW if you see this sticker below on your new alternator, it could be a bad sign. Glad they admit to it, but still. You just don't know what you're getting inside. Swear to goodness, it's real. Just be aware. That's why I always look for OLD SCHOOL ACDelco "made in USA" stuff whenever possible. Not that I'm flag waving here, it's just that the older, American-made Delco stuff is far and away higher quality, hands down. It just is.

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You'd rather see this:

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Additionally, 10SI alternators are easy to spot when you open the hood. They have a metal fan that looks like the alternators that came on your mom's 1972 98. Original 12SI alternators came with the big, round thermoplastic "turbo" fans mated with a thin metal plate on the front, usually with spangled galvanizing on the plate. I don't believe they made all metal fans for the 12SI, but some people have claimed it. Funny all the black part is plastic on the ones I've had. I've never torn one apart to see for sure, but I have seen warped fan faces before. The 12SI needs more cooling, so that's why they used the higher efficiency exhaust fan. On the back, the air inlet holes are larger than the 10SI.

Anyway, as you can see by the pic below, the 12SI fans where mounted, kind of have a ring "seal" of sorts to help keep more air going through the fan blades. If you like, you can swap a 12SI load end half onto your 10SI and you can use the round fan. It'll fit. Just make sure you use any appropriate spacer collars as needed. 10SI is next to it on the right for comparison. Note, there's no ring for the fan on the 10SI. BTW, if you're going to do an "amp upgrade" to any of these, pick the 12SI because of better cooling and higher starting amp capability. It has a better stator/rotor for higher output as well as a higher amp capacity rectifier. The 10SI was limited in factory output capacity because of not having those features. Remember, more amps = more heat.

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Another thing to note, real ACDelco alternators have the Delco brand cast into the back of the slip ring back half. Chinesium replacements do not.

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