carb problems on 83 Hurst Olds

[sonseeker]

I HAVE HAD IT OVER TO A VERY REPUTABLE CARB SHOP IN THE Flint Mi area, AREA 4 TIMES AND THEY STILL CAN'T GET IT RIGHT! tHEY HAVE REBUILT THE CARB,CHANGED ALL THE ELECTRONIC GIZMO'S TO THE TUNE OF $450 AND STILL GIVES ME FITS.
wAS HARD TO START THEY FIXED THAT I SUPPOSE. pROBLEMS AFTER IT WARMS UP,SEEMS TO BE DUMPING TOO MUCH FUEL. sOUNDS LIKE IT HAS A WICKED CAM THEN STALLS. iF I COME TO A RED LIGHT I HAVE TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL TO STAY RUNNING. aLSO DIESELS WHEN SHUTTING DOWN. aNY IDEAS I AM AT MY WITHS END. tHANKS IN ADVANCE. OOps sorry about the caps!

 

[dudeface]

83 hurst are infamous for bad running...................computer controlled before all the bugs were out. basically thats the main reason so many 83 hursts engines do not remain stock. of all the g bodys..........this would be the car to keep factory, being numbers matching cars

my buddy, who is a frakkin mechanical genious, as well as a cutlass fanatic has an 83 hurst olds, and has done the rounds on his 83 to narrow down the rough run and other 83 hurst engine issues. he did hours of research, and his final conclusion, these cars had computer control issues, that cannot be 100% fixed. I would get a code reader and then you will probably have at least half a dozen codes to fix (no code reader? jump two pins on the computer conection harness, and your engine light will morse code you problem codes)the problems seemed to send im in a loop, telling him to replace this sensor, then another, and then back to the first he just replaced. although my friend never completely solved the problem, O2 and other sesnsers will most likely need to be replaced, and i believe he had to make it run a bit rich to overcome the combined senser/computer control issue. baically he told me he would like to find the computer out of an 85 442, he figures that by 85 they had the computers issuse mostly solved.
the other option is aftermarket carbs ........................or swapping motors. thats why most 83s get powertrain mods

hope this was some help

peace

 

[DoubleV]

What's your dwell at idle in gear? What about TPS voltage at idle? Timing? Did you check for vacuum leaks? Are you sure the O2 sensor is good?

Do you happen to know how many turns out the idle mixture screws are? What about the idle air bleed?

Try this simple test; while it's running, umplug the MC solenoid from the carb. Does the idle smooth out considerably with it unplugged? If so, your engine wants a richer idle mixture.

 

[sonseeker]

Thanks for all the suggestions. What carb would be a good replacement,i hate to do it but i am not a mechanic,but i can replace a carb.

 

[DoubleV]

Thanks for all the suggestions. What carb would be a good replacement,i hate to do it but i am not a mechanic,but i can replace a carb.

So you're not even going to try and fix your car properly? You're giving up already without doing a thing? What's next, you're going to but a Chevy engine in it? If you want to own an older car you're going to have to be able to do and understand at least some basic stuff about how your car works and/or have a competent mechanic. You need a chassis service manual.

If you want a non CCC carb, you're going to need a non CCC distributor and a way to lock up your torque converter. Since you admit you're not mechanically inclined, you're most likely going to just butcher up a rare classic by screwing with it in this way. Just fix it the way it should be fixed.

 

[sonseeker]

I did my research when i took it to the guys that supposedly knew how to do the work on the carb! They tried 4 times and still can't get it right.I have tried finding smeone else in the area and everyone refers me back to them! so i just called them ad made yet another appointment for Fri a.m. If they can't fix it this time? Note i called the local Olds chapter president and he aslso endorsed this place,says they have worked on all the one's he knows of!

 

[RITTER]

It sounds to me like there is more of a timing issue and possibly some vacuum leaks :idea:

 

[DoubleV]

I did my research when i took it to the guys that supposedly knew how to do the work on the carb! They tried 4 times and still can't get it right.I have tried finding smeone else in the area and everyone refers me back to them! so i just called them ad made yet another appointment for Fri a.m. If they can't fix it this time? Note i called the local Olds chapter president and he aslso endorsed this place,says they have worked on all the one's he knows of!

I have done my fair share of things wrong in the past on various cars, but I gotta say anyone who really knows how to rebuild a carb should be able to do it right the first time...second time tops. Any more than that, they don't know what they're doing. Go somewhere else. What exactly did they do to the carb the second, third, and forth time they didn't do the first time anyway?

Sounds like it's very possible the rebuild on the carb may not even be the problem. What did you do to tune the carb once it was rebuilt? If you expect 'bolt on and go', that may be your problem.

You really need a service manual for your car.

 

[sonseeker]

Took it ba+ck once again. says everything is within parameters. Had me get in the car ,start engine,put brake on,shift into drive. Says my problem is that transmission pulls rpm down 4-450 rpm,says something wrong with transmission? Had it over to Doc Watson's a few days before that. Jason Watson,Doc's son,drove it and said transmission shifted pretty hard and torque convertor didn't seem quite right but not bad. It does stiff really hard,soBut how does that effect dieseling after turning off. And loading up after warm up and sitting for a couple of hours.
So where do i find a torque convertor and stock valve plate?