Steel Cowl Scoop on Stock hood

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GT_80

Greasemonkey
Apr 23, 2013
240
7
18
Massachusetts
Anyone ever put a steel cowl scoop on a sock steel hood? It is a much cheaper solution than a fiberglass hood, and the fit will be perfect as it is a stock hood plus you could retain the factory bracing.

I am thinking of getting this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/amd-301-scoop-1
AMD-301-SCOOP-1.jpg


and cutting the skin off the top of my factory hood, and welding the scoop on, then finishing the body work off.

Just wondering if anyone has done this.
 

jociha

Master Mechanic
Oct 16, 2012
279
1
18
Look around i think someone makes a complete steel cowl hood for the cutlass.
 

454cutlass

Master Mechanic
Sep 1, 2009
315
24
18
mass
You could do something like this...LOL

2012-10-08144203.jpg
 

GT_80

Greasemonkey
Apr 23, 2013
240
7
18
Massachusetts
jociha said:
Look around i think someone makes a complete steel cowl hood for the cutlass.

the point being I don't want to spend $550+ on a complete hood. I want to use a stock hood and a steel scoop for around $150 and do some bodywork myself.
 

CWPottenger

G-Body Guru
Oct 9, 2012
848
323
43
Yes, you can. Take a. Lot of measurements to get it straight and where you want it.

Very important take your time and spread your welds around to keep the heat down and take breaks to let steel cool slowly. The hood skin is relatively thin and on a big piece like the hood warpage is very easy if you rush the welding. Same for when you sand/grind welds smooth keep moving around and keep heat down.

My hood is not a Cowl Induction, but it is all steel that I fabbed up to my liking.
 

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jetsetw31

G-Body Guru
Sep 9, 2010
678
67
28
Petersburg, VA
CWPottenger said:
Yes, you can. Take a. Lot of measurements to get it straight and where you want it.

Very important take your time and spread your welds around to keep the heat down and take breaks to let steel cool slowly. The hood skin is relatively thin and on a big piece like the hood warpage is very easy if you rush the welding. Same for when you sand/grind welds smooth keep moving around and keep heat down.

My hood is not a Cowl Induction, but it is all steel that I fabbed up to my liking.
Nice job CWPottenger :mrgreen:
 

-83MONTESS-

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 4, 2010
4,570
967
113
Bellevue, Ohio
It's kinda ironic this comes up because my dad is currently fixing a guy's truck with cracks all around the cowl that he welded on. I have seen alot of cracking from the filler when people go this route because of the stress placed on the hood when you open and close it. I went back and forth on going this route to save money when we painted mine but after talking to my dad who has done body work for over 30 years I decided to spend somemore money to ensure I wouldnt have any cracking issues later on. I think I would rather go full fiberglass before trying to weld on a cowl.
 

86-blk442

G-Body Guru
Dec 2, 2008
739
1
16
West Seneca, New York
Not that I mean to second guess you 83, but how well were these cowls welded on? If someone were to talke the time to solid weld one to their hood, I dont see it cracking all that quick. I too am in the body industry and when a job is done right it holds up... Cut corners and get what you pay for.
 

CWPottenger

G-Body Guru
Oct 9, 2012
848
323
43
86-blk442 said:
Not that I mean to second guess you 83, but how well were these cowls welded on? If someone were to talke the time to solid weld one to their hood, I dont see it cracking all that quick. I too am in the body industry and when a job is done right it holds up... Cut corners and get what you pay for.

I'm with you on this one... If welded correctly it won't crack because metal is all one piece again. "Cold weld" it or grind weld all down or grind too thin and yep it will come apart EVERY time. Filler should be minimal as a skim coat, this is the reason you must take time to avoid warpage....
 
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