For those that have removed and reinstalled the TH200-4r trans, how complicated is the process? Are there many bolts, cables, components, etc. that need to be removed/detached/unfastened? Also, upon reinstalling, does one have to calibrate or reprogram any part of the transmission? Is the tv cable literally just snapped into place? I’ve got the space, tools, and mechanical ability, and am tempted to remove and reinstall it myself. Any advice is appreciated.
TH200-4r removal
- Thread starter 88olds32
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Disconnect the shifter linkage, TV cable, unhook speedometer cable, disconnect cooler lines, remove driveshaft, take out the 3 torque converter bolts from the flexplate(flywheel), remove transmission mount bolt from the crossmember. Then use a jack or blocks of wood to support the trans under the pan as you unbolt the 4 bolts holding the crossmember in place. After the crossmember is out of the way, with the trans still being supported loosen the bellhousing bolts. After the bellhousing bolts are removed the trans should come free.
It's pretty straight forward with these cars. Im not sure if the factory exhaust will be in the way so you might have to drop that from the manifold which will suck because the bolts will more than likely break. Im not 100% sure about the TV cable or reprogramming of the new trans so im not gonna lead you wrong 8)
It's pretty straight forward with these cars. Im not sure if the factory exhaust will be in the way so you might have to drop that from the manifold which will suck because the bolts will more than likely break. Im not 100% sure about the TV cable or reprogramming of the new trans so im not gonna lead you wrong 8)
88olds32 said:
The first transmission swap I did was on a 1976 Cutlass Salon with a TH350. I wrecked it because I thought transmission slams were cool ....
I was a 18 yr old kid at the time and figured that if I screwed something up in the process I would still likely come out ahead when considering the cost of paying a professional. It did it on a gravel driveway with crappy tools Based on my experience, the biggest issues can be clearance, lowering the trans and lifting it back into position. I suggest doing the work at least on a flat concrete surface that you aren't concerned about getting dirty. Trans fluid / grease and dirt will spill / leak during the process. If your not using a lift, get the car high enough so you can slide the trans out when you lower it. The TV cable doesn't need to be removed from the transmission but must be removed from the throttle bracket on the Q-jet. It snaps in and can be removed with a set of pliers or channel locks. There is nothing to calibrate or reprogram when reinstalling. Pay close attention to setting up the TV cable properly. which to start, should be pulled all the way out at WOT. If it's not, you will glaze the clutches from low line pressure. If the clutches are glazed, the transmission has to come apart again. Other advice from lessons learned are 1) use LINE WRENCHES to disconnect the transmission fluid lines. Not open end wrenches. 2) take your time and make sure everything is disconnected before lowering the trans. If you don't have a transmission jack, have a friend help you. Good luck.
This trans may also have a couple guide pins between the motor and trans, nothing you need to touch but the trans will need to slide back about an inch then down. The most important thing when reinstalling is getting the torque convertor in the trans correctly, make sure you understand that.
Get a tail plug for the trans. Goes where the driveshaft comes out. Keeps from spilling a lot of fluid. Harbor Freight has them ( IIRC).
Consider thick plastic dropcloth and a handy bag of cat litter. It would have been nice if GM had put a drain plug on the pan...
Or, dump cat litter on the puddle and use a chunk of 2x4 to scrub the kitty litter, drawing the oil up out of the concrete. Old-guy taught me this when I was 18, pumping gas at the Texaco...
Or, dump cat litter on the puddle and use a chunk of 2x4 to scrub the kitty litter, drawing the oil up out of the concrete. Old-guy taught me this when I was 18, pumping gas at the Texaco...
Don't forget the rags to clean yourself up after getting a fluid shower. Seemed like it happened to me every time the Monte's transmission's be fore the 4 speed conversion,
I know a lot of the above information may seem like a lot and some may be jumbled but the main points are:
1. make sure the vehicle is properly supported / raised and that there is enough room to get the trans out once unbolted and lowered to the ground (if a lift is not going to be used)
2. when/if using a floor jack & 2X4 to support the trans make sure the 2X4 is at a diagonal as to not dent the pan; better yet use 2X6 or 2X8 piece of wood or use a transmission jack if possible
3. have either a cap or in a pinch a rubber glove or decent ziplock bag and duct tape and AS SOON AS you pull the driveshaft cap the trans with the cap, spray can cap / glove whatever and tape it up. A suggestion could be to drain the fluid before removing but you really don't have to.
4. A suggestion is to have some way of supporting the engine during trans removal. Remember, the only thing holding the engine are the two engine mounts on the cross-member AND the transmission at the rear; removing the trans in effect removes the engine's third mounting point. Support the engine by the pan by using the same method as supporting the trans, a stack of 2X4s, etc. A couple precautions are to remove the distributor cap (maybe whole distributor), radiator hoses and even fan / clutch.
5. remove the starter; disconnect the trans lines and cap them (not trying to give you crap but you'd be surprised how many people don't think of this until it's too late)
6. if stock exhaust I believe you need to remove the y- / j-pipe & convertor
7. take time and watch how you twist and turn as your back is already going to be hurting trying to crawl underneath the car trying to remove & pull the trans from under the car
8. as stated have the spill dry and/or cat litter, shop towels, throw-away towels, extra shirts / pants available as well as a buddy or two
9. since you're already under there clean and replace ANY trans / assembly-related items, i.e. mount, bolts, dipstick tube oring, wiring connectors, speedo and shifter-cable parts, u-joints, caps, lines and the like.
10. mark the drive shaft so that it is placed / reinstalled properly. I know this may not be 100% necessary but just my personal piece of mind
11. flush the lines / radiator cooler thoroughly; even though the trans "cooler" is just a tube in the radiator still flush it out.
Good luck
1. make sure the vehicle is properly supported / raised and that there is enough room to get the trans out once unbolted and lowered to the ground (if a lift is not going to be used)
2. when/if using a floor jack & 2X4 to support the trans make sure the 2X4 is at a diagonal as to not dent the pan; better yet use 2X6 or 2X8 piece of wood or use a transmission jack if possible
3. have either a cap or in a pinch a rubber glove or decent ziplock bag and duct tape and AS SOON AS you pull the driveshaft cap the trans with the cap, spray can cap / glove whatever and tape it up. A suggestion could be to drain the fluid before removing but you really don't have to.
4. A suggestion is to have some way of supporting the engine during trans removal. Remember, the only thing holding the engine are the two engine mounts on the cross-member AND the transmission at the rear; removing the trans in effect removes the engine's third mounting point. Support the engine by the pan by using the same method as supporting the trans, a stack of 2X4s, etc. A couple precautions are to remove the distributor cap (maybe whole distributor), radiator hoses and even fan / clutch.
5. remove the starter; disconnect the trans lines and cap them (not trying to give you crap but you'd be surprised how many people don't think of this until it's too late)
6. if stock exhaust I believe you need to remove the y- / j-pipe & convertor
7. take time and watch how you twist and turn as your back is already going to be hurting trying to crawl underneath the car trying to remove & pull the trans from under the car
8. as stated have the spill dry and/or cat litter, shop towels, throw-away towels, extra shirts / pants available as well as a buddy or two
9. since you're already under there clean and replace ANY trans / assembly-related items, i.e. mount, bolts, dipstick tube oring, wiring connectors, speedo and shifter-cable parts, u-joints, caps, lines and the like.
10. mark the drive shaft so that it is placed / reinstalled properly. I know this may not be 100% necessary but just my personal piece of mind
11. flush the lines / radiator cooler thoroughly; even though the trans "cooler" is just a tube in the radiator still flush it out.
Good luck
I would strongly suggest some help. It is much easier with two people then one. I have done them alone and it creates some "scary" moments trying to watch, maneuver, run jack and control 200lbs of metal and fluid in an awkward position.
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