The glass would have to be set MUCH higher for the trim to fit properly, it would need to be set flush to the adjacent panels to look right.
I prefer the OE moldings, painted black
I prefer the OE moldings, painted black
MALIBU Windshield Rubber Moulding
- Thread starter Ratchet
- Start date
I thought you might not be taking glasss out.if not the area ( groove) might be shallower then the attachment material", your windsheild may indeed be set deeper then say the s10 windshield if so you can see if you can measure the groove depth beside the window with a stick see what the average depth is its possible you can cut some of the attachment section off the s10 moulding first see if it seems to fit the opening well enough to where it could be adapted ? The depth of the side that (where its)is glued into the area next to the windsheild ? you will press the down side(moulding) into that groove .I'm guessing about some things and thinking trimming the s10 mouldings" fit (down side) ? could allow you to use it for your gbody ?..OK let's say you can mount it and your top corners are in the right places if not you could make a cut say in the center? (Of winsheild) only if nessesary ?To move the corners inward .This all depends on fitting and triming (looks) So far I haven't said any thing about how the level between the glass and the pillars is lookin because it could be a matter of trimming and useing urethane to set it ( moulding) in a held position untill the urethane hardens..I mentioned cardboard as I had an idea there could be some spring i ness between said pillar,and glass ...that you can guesstimate whether any pressing down while hardening of urethane occurs for instance you can do this pressing all around the windsheild you only have 2 hands cutting a layer of corrugated card board the same width or slightly smaller then useing duct tape over top of the corrugated peices therby keeping a constant springy pressure onto the top of the fitted moulding (all around window) . Some means of holding the edges (moulding)close to the glass and pillar simultaneously all the way around the windsheild . Proubly duct tape or wide frog tape . Il leave that up to you its your project now .good luck..thanks for considering my suggested ideas.. and good luck..it's not likely to be useinble particularly without trimming and fitting.should you manage a couple attachment concepts and the said moulding drys with said urethane it's not coming off the urethane will grip tightly in a few hours time.( over clean surface) .Any trimming occures on the back side of moulding.This is all sort of hypothetical ,Some checking the level of the windshield or repositioning of windsheild might in some way matter! as to what is acceptable only time will tell unless there's more ( content) out there,on the subject that we're not aware of ,and it's a great idea for shure.
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You just need a "T" molding...any glass supplier will have it. It gets embedded into the urethane after setting the glass. There are also moldings that attach to the glass before the glass get set, but if you're using the original window cavity, I think the T molding is going to be your best bet.
OKay I've had a couple more thoughts about the subject( moulding mods) if you need to section the peice shorten or lengthen you will end up useing a section coupler. A peice of tin shaped like the moulding that scoots onto both ends of the sectioned moulding .One could be fabed with a wooden form and some steel possibly aluminum ( and painted black) it could be placed in between any sectioned area ( center) it could us some of the urethane to secure its final position and roughly would look like a skinny capital D ...if you were working on a model of car that needed much longer trim say a big Ford you would buy 2 trim peices and cut one half shorter on each to make the middle lenth .it's stuff like this that keeps people from modding there cars ...
I wouldn't order for a specific vehicle, I would get in touch with a glass installer as they should have multiple profiles/lengths available.
I get sometimes we want to do it online the easy way, but some things you just have to bite the bullet and talk to somebody local.
I would NOT splice it. Aside from looking bad, more likely to come out/leak.
This is really not terribly difficult, I think the hardest part is finding one wide enough to cover the big gap around the winshield if not modifying the OE opening
Rear would be the same general idea
Here's a link...notice the length. Most universal molding is going to be long enough to not splice
Original T Mouldings • Universal Economy Moulding
equalizer.com
My feeling is the only way this is going to look good is to raise the windshield to make it flush with the body and also fill the big gap between the windshield and the body so you can use the correct style seal and then you would also have to do the rear glass the same way to match and when you are done with that will it even look right when you still have drivers and passenger side windows that are set really far in.
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