your fav/ best/ craziest gbody shuffle

[L05edSS]

G-Body Shuffle?

Does anyone else actually *use* this term or is this just some usual urban dictionary fiction? http://fr.urbandictionary.com/define.ph ... id=7461048 The G-Body Shuffle is a term used to describe a characteristic of the 1978-1987 general motors G platform vehicles. (monte carlo, grand prix...

gbodyforum.com

G body shuffle Quarter Warp

I was just surfing the tube of you and found this video. The G-body Shuffle its Real! But take notice how the left rear quarter has a dent in the beginning. Check out the last launch at 1:51 min/sec mark. The Qurter panel dent stretches a few inches more!:eek: That's some scary stuff right...

gbodyforum.com

The G Body Shuffle??

So had my 84 cut about a year, had been sitting for about 10 so it needed new shocks. When i got it back running and took it for a ride, I was shocked at the body shifting or as my Olds guru explained, that's the G body shuffle. You have to drive one to really understand or at least ride in...

gbodyforum.com

ok interesting. i come to learn its where the rear swags side to side unexpectedly even at a later point down track but as urban states gnx dont do it. i'll leave post as is.

 

[Ugly1]

That’s true but leaf spring cars didn’t suck the passenger tire into the wheelwell like link suspension cars do. Every stock suspension non modified a and g body was hard leaned over with the driver side front wheel in the air

Most early factory performance cars with leaf springs, they would add a leaf to the right rear to try and counter act the traction/twist of the car on launch. Well at least Mopar did and Fords probably did. Don’t remember what GM did with their leaf spring setup. But coil springs I don’t think they did anything special.

 

[bracketchev1221]

GM didn't really do much. We would go to the lakewood J-bolt slapper bar to prevent the leaf spring wrap and plant both tires. Chrylsler also had the adjustable pinion snubber that would act like the lakewood bars and then cause the rear end to push down and separate from the body.

 

[CopperNick]

The term "G-Body Shuffle" came up in conversation on a builder series I was watching on Sunday. Had not heard the term before. The explanation offered on screen was that the stock front end suspension, under strong acceleration, tends to unload and/or flex/twist to the point where the car starts to twitch or shift from one side to the other because while there is still weight on the front end, it is not acting on the suspension to the point of keeping it more solidly planted on the pavement. The shuffle portion is actually the rear end stepping out because the "weight transfer" being imposed on the rear end is beyond the ability of the stock rear suspension and sway bar to control.

The suggested cure was ditching the stock parts and going with tubular or boxed aftermarket components that are up to the challenge.

For myself I have already done that for the rear end of my own Monte but the $$$ needed to finish the job and get the upper and lower control arms for the front has become obscene. I actually checked out Hotchkis and CPP and UMI and came away with a greater understanding of the term "avarice". Up here with the exchange and shipping/customs the BITE is somewhere very close to Three Large.



Nick

 

[Ugly1]

The term "G-Body Shuffle" came up in conversation on a builder series I was watching on Sunday. Had not heard the term before. The explanation offered on screen was that the stock front end suspension, under strong acceleration, tends to unload to the point where the car starts to twitch or shift from one side to the other because while there is still weight on the front end, it is not acting on the suspension to the point of keeping it more solidly planted on the pavement. The shuffle portion is actually the rear end stepping out because the "weight transfer" being imposed on the rear end is beyond the ability of the stock rear suspension and sway bar to control.

The suggested cure was ditching the stock parts and going with tubular or boxed aftermarketcomponents that up to the challenge.

For myself I have already done that for the rear end of my own Monte but the $$$ needed to finish the job and get the upper and lower control arms for the front has become obscene. I actually checked out Hotchkis and CPP and UMI and came away with a greater understanding of the term "avarice". Up here with the exchange and shipping/customs the BITE is somewhere very close to Three Large.



Nick

I just sent a package to a friend in NS. The shipping was more than what I paid for the parts!

 

[CopperNick]

Surprised they didn't add a surcharge or customs duties when it crossed the border into Q-bec. The separatists would dearly love to be able to do that if they could and getting to NS usually means having to cross the St. Lawrence and Lower Q-b before getting to the east coast. Only other way would be to export it to the states and then bring it back over the border north of Maine/



Nick

 

[Ugly1]

Surprised they didn't add a surcharge or customs duties when it crossed the border into Q-bec. The separatists would dearly love to be able to do that if they could and getting to NS usually means having to cross the St. Lawrence and Lower Q-b before getting to the east coast. Only other way would be to export it to the states and then bring it back over the border north of Maine/



Nick

Sent it as a present to skip extra BS

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

One of the causes for the shuffle is the stock arm mounted rear sway bars. They don't control the suspension that well and even cause binding. Upgrading to a chassis mounted rear sway bar resolves many of the rear suspension issues. Moreover, a Jeff brace for thd rear chassis helps a lot too. For street driven cars you want to stay with stock rear upper control arms, the boxed ones egg out thd mounting holes in the frame.

 

[64nailhead]

One of the causes for the shuffle is the stock arm mounted rear sway bars. They don't control the suspension that well and even cause binding. Upgrading to a chassis mounted rear sway bar resolves many of the rear suspension issues. Moreover, a Jeff brace for thd rear chassis helps a lot too. For street driven cars you want to stay with stock rear upper control arms, the boxed ones egg out thd mounting holes in the frame.

I agree 100% with ^^^^

A sway bar that isn’t mount to the lower control arms is the solution. And an anti roll bar (ARB) that is frame mounted that attaches directly to the rear solves it completely. The a-arms contribute some.

bracketchev1221 I found before I installed a much stronger sway bar that I was eating up the right rear twice as fast as the left rear tire. And I was definitely steering when the left front was off the ground.

 

[CopperNick]

OKay, more interesting information to work through. Any suggestions as to who offers a frame mounted sway bar or anti-roll bar kit?

As for the upper control arm frame mounts, I doubled them with heavy steel washers a while back because the factory ears were both flimsy and original.



Nick