it was pumping. I disconnected the lines from the rad and it was pissin good. Glad I had a pan under there. And it wouldn't just suddenly stop working. There'd be some kind of buildup, not just like the flip of a switch... right?What makes you sure the pump is fine?
The reason I ask is that the pressure has to be there. There is a bypass valve in the pump that can stick (happened on my 200-4r). It's pretty tough to visually tell the difference between 50 and 150 PSI just by looking at an open cooler line. I'm not saying it's thr pump, was just curious how you knew it was fine.it was pumping. I disconnected the lines from the rad and it was pissin good. Glad I had a pan under there. And it wouldn't just suddenly stop working. There'd be some kind of buildup, not just like the flip of a switch... right?
This converter hasn't been cut, and seems to be a stock piece. This was behind a Buick 50, and now another Buick 350, both under my ownership. And a finger width is a bit of an exaggeration. It was a 1/4 inch or thereabout.Ok, I'm going back to shimming the converter. If the transmission worked fine and the only change was the engine install, having to slide the converter almost a fingers width seems excessive. I worked at a trans shop fo 7 years rebuilding 904's, 727's , and 350's. When you get a rebuilt converter, it is thinner than a new one. A lot of stock 350 converters have been rebuilt several times . To rebuild them, they cut them in half and reweld them. Every time they cut them , metal is lost. Maybe the converter is not fully engaged with the pump gears. I have had to shim converters before. If the trans worked fine before, it wouldn't be a big deal to slide some washers in between the flywheel and converter before digging into it...timo22
Define normal engagement. If you mean put it in whatever gear and it idles down and jumps into gear, no. It doesn't idle down, it acts like I didn't do anything, but if I give it some throttle it'll start to move but slowly, like it's slipping. Fluid is a dark red. Fluid smelled fine. There is no kickdown cable, never had a problem without it. Manually shifted it when I needed to on a hill or passing, just as it normally would under acceleration. I drove it last a week ago when it was still 40F. It's 40F today and it wouldn't move without a lot of throttle, 1500rpm is when it started to move. usually it will idle itself along on it's own.like pontiacgp stated, place it in first gear, not drive, but first gear and see what happens. its a diagnostic step to see what all works and what doesn't. does it do into reverse with the normal engagement? what color is the fluid, red, or sh*t brown? what does the fluid smell like, fresh or burnt? double check your throttle cable adjustment.
has the ambient temp dropped since you drove it last? it's possible that the cold weather has caused an internal seal to leak causing this condition.
if the fluid is fresh and red, stop driving it till you get things figured out, or risk doing more damage to it.
joe
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