The glass would have to be set MUCH higher for the trim to fit properly, it would need to be set flush to the adjacent panels to look right.
I prefer the OE moldings, painted black
I prefer the OE moldings, painted black
Understood. Thanks for clearing it up.The glass would have to be set MUCH higher for the trim to fit properly, it would need to be set flush to the adjacent panels to look right.
I prefer the OE moldings, painted black
Do you have any suggestions (gasket) to use for the rear windshield glass?Here's my reply youl need a tube of urethane windshield caulk what I know about the s10 windsheild is my guess you should start with the trim peice availible several places proubly e baay...I don't know what the other guys are saying about add metal but I would be more inclined to use a razor knife and some strips of plywood (or cardboard)and duck tape to flatten trim onto the glass crack for a couple hours you not going to be out much but an experiment that seems likely to be calculate once you get the s10 trim strip ( there plastic ) there might be less than 1/2" difference on your size of screen : besides'I want to know been thinking the same thing!
I thought you might not be taking glasss out.if not the area ( groove) might be shallower then the attachment material", your windsheild may indeed be set deeper then say the s10 windshield if so you can see if you can measure the groove depth beside the window with a stick see what the average depth is its possible you can cut some of the attachment section off the s10 moulding first see if it seems to fit the opening well enough to where it could be adapted ? The depth of the side that (where its)is glued into the area next to the windsheild ? you will press the down side(moulding) into that groove .I'm guessing about some things and thinking trimming the s10 mouldings" fit (down side) ? could allow you to use it for your gbody ?..OK let's say you can mount it and your top corners are in the right places if not you could make a cut say in the center? (Of winsheild) only if nessesary ?To move the corners inward .This all depends on fitting and triming (looks) So far I haven't said any thing about how the level between the glass and the pillars is lookin because it could be a matter of trimming and useing urethane to set it ( moulding) in a held position untill the urethane hardens..I mentioned cardboard as I had an idea there could be some spring i ness between said pillar,and glass ...that you can guesstimate whether any pressing down while hardening of urethane occurs for instance you can do this pressing all around the windsheild you only have 2 hands cutting a layer of corrugated card board the same width or slightly smaller then useing duct tape over top of the corrugated peices therby keeping a constant springy pressure onto the top of the fitted moulding (all around window) . Some means of holding the edges (moulding)close to the glass and pillar simultaneously all the way around the windsheild . Proubly duct tape or wide frog tape . Il leave that up to you its your project now .good luck..thanks for considering my suggested ideas.. and good luck..it's not likely to be useinble particularly without trimming and fitting.should you manage a couple attachment concepts and the said moulding drys with said urethane it's not coming off the urethane will grip tightly in a few hours time.( over clean surface) .Any trimming occures on the back side of moulding.This is all sort of hypothetical ,Some checking the level of the windshield or repositioning of windsheild might in some way matter! as to what is acceptable only time will tell unless there's more ( content) out there,on the subject that we're not aware of ,and it's a great idea for shure.I’m confused on a couple of things. First: do I order S10 windshield rubber gasket? Second: please clarify what you are saying about using plywood/cardboard to flatten trim?
I wouldn't order for a specific vehicle, I would get in touch with a glass installer as they should have multiple profiles/lengths available.I appreciate both, Spongbob and Ribbedroof’s suggestions. Do the same techniques apply to the rear window? If so, is there a rubber moulding to use from a different vehicle or should I try using the Blazer winds moulding?
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