81 cutlass 455 swap.
- Thread starter Jarhead85
- Start date
307 to 455 olds swap
Changing out a oldsmobile 307 to a Oldsmobile 455, I know the motor mounts are the same ones but do I have to move them on the frame ?
gbodyforum.com
AFAIK, very few currently makes headers for this situation, so you may be limited on exhaust options if on a budget.
American Racing makes 1 7/8" or 2" headers to do what you want but you're looking at breaking a 1600 or 1700 dollar bill just for the headers.
American Racing makes 1 7/8" or 2" headers to do what you want but you're looking at breaking a 1600 or 1700 dollar bill just for the headers.
Thornton Restorations has cast iron manifolds and tubular SS manifolds that would more than likely fit fine. Neither is a hard core performance option though.
That's kinda what I was getting at. There's decent street options like cast iron manifolds and shorties, but if you're going racing and want the "really good stuff" you're limited unless you have a bucket of $$. ARH is some of the best. I think the owner's an Olds guy so that's likely the only reason they even have them.
Hooker, I think, use to make some wrap around the frame headers but not sure if they have those anymore.
Slim pickens.
Okay, then, pure curiousity here......Dig the big block Olds drop but wondering what you were considering for the rest of the drive train? Auto stick versus 4-spd and third pedal? Built TH 400 or a 700R4 or stouter? Run the factory suspension or tweak it some by plugging in slightly stiffer springs and shocks? Lose those press metal rear control arms in favor of some UMI's or Hotchkis or CPP or????? (The list is endless as to suppliers and everyone on the board has their personal favorites) More horsepower needs better brakes for balance so more thinking and bench racing for ideas about that.
Oh, yeah, pictures, pictures, and pictures. The old business about them being better than a thousand words really rings true around here.
Nick
Oh, yeah, pictures, pictures, and pictures. The old business about them being better than a thousand words really rings true around here.
Nick
With the TH400 you might have to tweak the crossmember a little to pick up the rear mount tab. You might also have to swap out your existing prop shaft for one slightly shorter; I'll leave that possibility to someone else to comment on. Other things to consider would include whatever tweaks to the shifter linkages that would need to be performed. The 400 ought to possess a vacuum modulator valve for shifting so the tubing and plumbing that ought to be already resident should work for that. If not, it can be fabricated from brake line and short lengths of vacuum rate rubber hose. Other things to consider: does the 400 converter need a specific flexplate to mate it to the 455? Starter? Brackets and bits to attach the kickdown cable to the carb? Cruise Control, it is there??
With the TKX, you may need to think complete new crossmember that has the adaptability to work with various transmission mounting points. After that, there is the small matter of the third pedal. The Factory version of the clutch pedal mount can be had as a repro from Original Parts or salvaged from a 4 speed car if you can find one. With that in hand you then have two basic options and a lot variations on them.
The first is go OEM mechanical with respect to the clutch linkage. Meaning the OEM Z Bar and the upper and lower rods along with the engine and frame mounted pivot points. This is a lot of work to assemble, ( And I am not the only one on this board to have done it) and it only gives you the equivalent of what the stock assembly would have offered when it came from the factory. You can upgrade the rods for strength and ease of installation using a rod kit; supplier name escapes me but i just picked mine up a few weeks back so still the bag but out in the shop--there is a link attached to a thread on this forum site, probably about ten or more pages back by now, or run a search, or someone will repost it. With the factory assembly you will also have to identify exactly where on the firewall the upper rod is supposed to come through, which can be something of a chore as the firewalls were all the same and supposed to have witness marks punched into the metal to identify that location. Never did really work for me all that accurately.
The second option is to go totally hydraulic and set your clutch pedal and linkage up accordingly. This option come with more work attached to it because you have to deal with both a master cylinder and the slave or actuator cylinder; one located on the firewall and the other down on the bellhousing or in immediate proximity.
For both options there are a lot of videos on You Tube that can be reviewed to get some idea of what has to occur. Take the videos with a box of salt, not just a grain. They can be precise and accurate or just as easily be ridiculously vague and senseless; too much talk and too little show how.
And, as always, someone can usually be found hereabouts who has the experience and knowledge to attempt to talk you through the agony and the angst of it all.
If all else fails, hit the local pool supply store and score a couple of dozen foam rubber bricks!?!? They are a lot easier to throw than wrenches, don't damage what they hit, and don't need to be tracked down and retrieved because you still need the tool for what you are doing.
Nick
With the TKX, you may need to think complete new crossmember that has the adaptability to work with various transmission mounting points. After that, there is the small matter of the third pedal. The Factory version of the clutch pedal mount can be had as a repro from Original Parts or salvaged from a 4 speed car if you can find one. With that in hand you then have two basic options and a lot variations on them.
The first is go OEM mechanical with respect to the clutch linkage. Meaning the OEM Z Bar and the upper and lower rods along with the engine and frame mounted pivot points. This is a lot of work to assemble, ( And I am not the only one on this board to have done it) and it only gives you the equivalent of what the stock assembly would have offered when it came from the factory. You can upgrade the rods for strength and ease of installation using a rod kit; supplier name escapes me but i just picked mine up a few weeks back so still the bag but out in the shop--there is a link attached to a thread on this forum site, probably about ten or more pages back by now, or run a search, or someone will repost it. With the factory assembly you will also have to identify exactly where on the firewall the upper rod is supposed to come through, which can be something of a chore as the firewalls were all the same and supposed to have witness marks punched into the metal to identify that location. Never did really work for me all that accurately.
The second option is to go totally hydraulic and set your clutch pedal and linkage up accordingly. This option come with more work attached to it because you have to deal with both a master cylinder and the slave or actuator cylinder; one located on the firewall and the other down on the bellhousing or in immediate proximity.
For both options there are a lot of videos on You Tube that can be reviewed to get some idea of what has to occur. Take the videos with a box of salt, not just a grain. They can be precise and accurate or just as easily be ridiculously vague and senseless; too much talk and too little show how.
And, as always, someone can usually be found hereabouts who has the experience and knowledge to attempt to talk you through the agony and the angst of it all.
If all else fails, hit the local pool supply store and score a couple of dozen foam rubber bricks!?!? They are a lot easier to throw than wrenches, don't damage what they hit, and don't need to be tracked down and retrieved because you still need the tool for what you are doing.
Nick
So for that linkage upgrade I went diving back into the stacks and finally turned this up. The link is "Clutch Linkage Adjustment and the poster who replied to my Q., was Bonnewagon.
Nick here is the link: https://www.speeddirect.com/shop/pr...1987-chevelle-a-g-body-7509?category=11#attr= And here is the thread where I struggled to figure this all out: https://gbodyforum.com/threads/stock-linkage-z-bar-modification-success.72605/ I think I bought the linkage via Fleabay and it was less than $100.
Nick
Nick here is the link: https://www.speeddirect.com/shop/pr...1987-chevelle-a-g-body-7509?category=11#attr= And here is the thread where I struggled to figure this all out: https://gbodyforum.com/threads/stock-linkage-z-bar-modification-success.72605/ I think I bought the linkage via Fleabay and it was less than $100.
Nick
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