Oxygen regulator questions

Bonnewagon

Lost in the Labyrinth
Supporting Member
Sep 18, 2009
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Queens, NY
While heating up some diamond plate for bending I noticed that the oxygen flow kept increasing. Checking the gauge I saw that the low pressure side was way above what I had it set at. I suspect an internal leak.
I know some can be rebuilt if parts are available. Has anyone done this?

This is a Craftsman single stage oxy-acetylene welding set probably over 40 years old. Checking Sears Parts Direct, no parts available, no substitute regulators available. I have read that Harris produced the Craftsman torch sets so maybe if I could cross reference the Harris part numbers something may be available.

Probably the best route to go is just get some new Harris regulators. I see several models on the Harris site. The 25GX, 301, 425, 801, and 450 stainless diaphragm models all look like they would work. Does anyone have first hand experience with any of these?
 
Some of the Harris can be rebuilt... I ended up just getting one from Harbor Freight. Was the quickest, cheapest option and given how much I use my torches now a days, will last me for a long time
 
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I have a headache perusing the Harris catalog and learning regulator speak. I can get an acetylene regulator that has the 520-B inlet fitting for a 'B' acetylene tank. The Craftsman came with a 510 fitting that required an adapter. Almost all the oxygen inlet fittings are the 540 like the Craftsman and I can get my 9/16-18 'B' hose outlet. I use low pressures so finding the lowest range on the dials gets me a more accurate reading. I prefer a brass 'T' handle vs a plastic knob. Yes, I am a clumsy oaf. :mrgreen:
 
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So I found some really nice Harris oxygen regulators that I will probably just buy one new and be done. As for the acetylene, I find that the more common CGA 510 inlet fittings fit a lot of stuff I will never use. I need the CGA 520 inlet for a 'B' bottle which is harder to find and for some reason much more expensive. I have been using an adapter for all these years with no issues, but the Western site that also sells that adapter says it is for 'temporary' use only. They say use the correct fitting for long term use. Then I see I can get a 520 fitting, but another site says to NEVER swap fittings, due to flow and pressure differences. YIKES!!!!
 
Mark,
My oxy-acetylene setup is probably as old as yours, maybe less. I think I'm using Smiths regulators and handles.
I find that the gauges are also showing wonky readings. I feel that they also need to be rebuilt after years of use.
I got to say, having the outfit has come in very handy.
 
Jack, I can absolutely say that my Craftsman torch kit is probably the best tool I have ever owned. I bought it in 1982, and it shows it. I did unbelievable stuff with it. I even fixed my wife's huge cast iron frying pan [no, she did not hit me with it].

That said, I just pulled the trigger on some new Harris regulators. I went for the 601 series. They are compact in size, and the gauge dials have the larger psi digits on the perimeter. Most others have the kPa predominant and the psi is tiny. I also liked the smaller scale on the oxygen dial so it will be more accurate at the lower pressure that I use. I was even able to get the correct 520 fitting on the acetylene regulator that will fit a standard 'B' cylinder with no adapter. On this model it was only $8 more than the one with that 510 fitting. On the 301 series, the same difference was $50. I did not like the 301 series gauge dials. I am skeptical of the plastic knobs on the 601, so I guess I will have to be careful.

Just to be sure before I spent money, I went out to the garage and hooked up the Craftsman oxygen regulator. I opened the tank valve, and the high side gauge showed 1500 psi, then closed the tank, trapping the 1500 psi in the regulator. The low side showed 20 psi even when closed. I slowly cracked the low side open and the whole 1500 psi whooshed out. THAT is why I pulled the plug on this Craftsman kit. It owes me nothing. Parts are super hard to find, and repair is not advised for amateurs.

The sad part is that after buying new hoses, flashback arrestors, regulators, and various torch tips, I could have gotten an entire brand new Harris torch kit complete with a carrying bag on the Harris closeout page for less money. Who knew? Bang head here >>>>>>> X :mrgreen:
 
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They came today. WOWSERS! They are super nice. Small, but sturdy, and the dials are what I like. They have the correct input fittings too. See pic.
IMG_0848.JPG
 
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While I don't normally use a Hot Red Wrench of any kind in my shop, once upon a time i did manage to attend an auction and came away with a nice set of Victor Gauges, hoses, and the torch and brazing tips. Put the whole kit in a large plastic tool box from Napa and there it sits to this day. But they are there if ever needed. Would still have to pick up some backfire valves in the name of safety but that is still on the list to be taken care of.



Nick
 
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Many guys have no idea what brazing is. When I extended the forks on my 1983 Yamaha QT50, I used 1" stainless steel boat railing tubing up at the triple tree. The forks were 1" chrome plated steel. I used some nickel/silver rods to braze them together. And when I fixed my wife's cast iron frying pan with the broken handle, I brazed them back together. Since then I discovered that a cutting torch can be used to melt and flow cast iron back together. Just keep it hot and let it cool slowly and it won't crack.
 
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Both Brazing, using brass or alloy rod, and silver soldering, have become something of lost arts. The MIG, whether flux core or solid wire and Gas, has proved itself to be easier to both learn to use and to work with. The same is fairly true for body filling using lead. Now I do purely concede that the old school lead that used to be found in body shops was Toxic.
How toxic is toxic? Well consider that back in the time of the Roman Empire, they had figured out a way to take lead and smelt it down and then form it into thin sheets. The artisans would then take those sheets, roll them into tubes couple the tubes together using pitch or tar, and voila! water pipes for incoming fresh water and sewage. What they didn't know was that the lead salts were being leached out of the pipe and into the water moving through it so, over time, a lot of citizens developed lead poisoning and not the kind acquired from being shot; that came later.

The thing here is that lead never did become any less poisonous over time and the ages so once it finished killing the Romans, it moved on to killing people who drank, which is why you can't buy leaded crystal glasses in North America, and then it set its sights on bodymen. Only for the body and fender trade it wasn't consumed by drinking it, it was ingested by both inhalation and by touch.

The new "lead" fillers actually have no lead in them at all.

As with MIG welding you also have to be careful with brazing as there can be noxious or toxic fumes discharged during the fusing process.

On my list of "Needs to be done at Sometime in the Indefinite Future:" I have the body of a wheel barrow that has to be dissected and reconstructed. My Mom< RIP> was a generous soul and the cross the street neighbour took advantage of that to borrow the wheelbarrow after I had specifically told him NO. It came back with the floor of the pan all tore out and I watched him repeatedly ram it into a pile of gravel as if he wanted it to fill itself. Should have gone and retrieved it at that point but knew he would come back over and whine away at Mom until she gave in and let him have it again. Did attempt to repair the damage by making patch panels and brazing them in to sandwich the damage and rebuild the pan floor but never did get around to reassembling the barrow, until that family was long gone and by that time Mom had left as well. Bother> What will likely happen is that I will wind up my air drivin exhaust cut off tool and cut away the whole floor, then separate the layers, discard the original damaged pieces and Mig the repair panels back in. The only thing here is that I will have to carefully grind away all that brazing because MIG and brass do not get along and I don't need any pop up explosions of brass to accidently occur and ruin my day.

As for that trick with fusion welding that cast iron pan using just the torch heat, that sounds almost like old school black smithing. Good trick to know and have handy. THANKS!


Nick
 
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