Which Suspension Parts Company?

ElkySS89

Apprentice
Jun 9, 2024
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I'm seeing a huge variant in prices on front control arms for our cars. I like UMI and have a bunch of their parts on my Firebird but UMI and BMR are so much more expensive than South Side Machine and Speedway. Can someone help me understand? I'm leaning toward SSM, since it seems like a good middle ground. Does anyone have any input on them? I'm building my car as an autocrossable daily driver.
 
Upper or lower control arms? Both?

What are your goals with the car?

I guess what's wrong with the stock ones. Do you just want them to look tubular? Do you want to save weight? Do you want better geometry for handling? Do you want to run coilovers and need a different bracket to mount the new springs?
 
Upper or lower control arms? Both?

What are your goals with the car?

I guess what's wrong with the stock ones. Do you just want them to look tubular? Do you want to save weight? Do you want better geometry for handling? Do you want to run coilovers and need a different bracket to mount the new springs?
Probably just uppers but i may be convinced to get lowers too. The main thing I want is the better geometry. Not super worried bout weigh loss. I'm planning on running Viking coilovers but that may change.
 
First things first, make sure your steering system is in good shape and no wear.

As far as control arms, since you are looking for improved handling, you want something that gives you a better camber curve (taller ball joints) and more caster (upper control arm point moved back at minimum, moving the lower ball joint forward is great too!)

IMO a tube aftermarket arm with stock geometry and stock ball joints is just throwing your money away (unless you are going with a TRZ type setup to save weight in a drag race setup). I guess coilovers force you to get a different lower arm, but if you have to get a new lower arm get one with the lower ball joint position moved forward.

I have 1/2" taller lower ball joints in stock lower arms with replaced bushings and MC upper arms with a taller upper ball joint
I have these, they were my only option since I was able to get the camber in spec without shims, the stock arms (and almost every after market arm) hit my header tube on the passenger side-


Only complaint, I have so much additional caster turned into the car that the tires rub the inner fender at full lock if the car is on the bump stops going into a driveway. If I had to do it again, I'd get an aftermarket lower arm that has the lower ball joint moved forward so I can keep the caster but move the wheel forward in the fender 1" and keep the tire off the inner fender.


I would just avoid a speedway arm as they are much more targeted toward saturday night crash & bash dirt racing replacement.



Long story short, get a 'kit' of arms with the lower ball joint moved forward and upper arm moved back. UMI, BMR, Spohn, doesn't matter in my opinion as long as it's got improved geometry.
 
something to keep in mind and not everyone cares about this.the more rod ends/turn buckle style components that make up the arms the more they're proned to wear as they're a metal to metal component out in the elements compared to a bushed style make up.that wear makes for more NVH over time.again not everyone cares about that type of stuff.
 
something to keep in mind and not everyone cares about this.the more rod ends/turn buckle style components that make up the arms the more they're proned to wear as they're a metal to metal component out in the elements compared to a bushed style make up.that wear makes for more NVH over time.again not everyone cares about that type of stuff.
Yea, my Firebird is all rod-ended stuff. I'm not going that route with this car
 
If you're keeping standard springs, I wouldn't bother with aftermarket upper or lower arms. Just get tall upper balljoints, make sure the bushings are good, or replace them with urethane, and get a good alignment.

On the other hand, if you plan on going with coilovers, you get what you pay for. I would highly suggest to buy one brand, for everything and stick with it. UMI stuff is very nice, and not that bad. Price out RideTech if you want expensive.
 
If you're keeping standard springs, I wouldn't bother with aftermarket upper or lower arms. Just get tall upper balljoints, make sure the bushings are good, or replace them with urethane, and get a good alignment.

On the other hand, if you plan on going with coilovers, you get what you pay for. I would highly suggest to buy one brand, for everything and stick with it. UMI stuff is very nice, and not that bad. Price out RideTech if you want expensive.
Why would coilovers change that? I'm considering UMI Vikings but I don't plan on going very low. 2 inches max.
 
Stock lower arms can't handle a coilover. So that means you'll need to buy a lower as well.
 
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Stock lower arms can't handle a coilover. So that means you'll need to buy a lower as well.
Most of the reason I'm on the fence with whether to get coilovers or not is I'm running an all aluminum LS1. On stock springs, the front sits about 3/4 inch higher than the back with a full tank. I'm considering buying UMI 1 inch springs and cutting the front to go lower, which is what they recommend unless I went coilover
 

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