Which Suspension Parts Company?

[ssn696]

Consider cutting a 1/4 coil from your existing springs to fix the ride height, putting in all new stock bushings and lower ball joints plus 'problem solver' upper control arm cross shaft that can be flipped for more camber and tall upper ball joints to fix the camber change when cornering. Spend the savings on better brakes, such as the Blazer upgrade.

 

[64nailhead]

If budget is not a concern, then the UMI with coilovers are tough to beat. If you're sure you're going to run a 17-18" wheel, then a C5/C6 brake conversion is an unbelievable upgrade for stopping. But the Vette stuff will not work with a stock size wheel. This upgrade can get really spendy - which might be unnecessary for a cruiser. Good luck.

 

[Streetbu]

If you're looking for ease of getting your ride height correct, nothing beats coil overs. That's what I did. Otherwise plan on removing your coils and cutting them several times, and probably still not being happy. Plus the ride is SO much better with my RideTech (Fox) coilovers. MUCH smoother than when I had cut springs and KYB shocks

 

[Clone TIE Pilot]

Be warned that cutting coils increases the spring rate. Stock upper control arms are angled for stock short balljoints. For tall upper balljoints you need either an adaptor wedge plate or a aftermarket upper arm designed for tall upper balljoints to have them at the proper angle.

 

[UC645]

Be warned that cutting coils increases the spring rate. Stock upper control arms are angled for stock short balljoints. For tall.uppwr balljoints you need either an adaptor wedge plate or a aftermarket upper arm designed for tall upper balljoints.

And to add on to that, depending on how much you drop it, tall upper ball joints might not be necessary.

I’m running 1/2” taller lowers and a set of Moog 5660’s with half a coil cut, that’s about a 2.5 drop. Tall uppers moved the ball joint above the control arm pivot, making for radical camber changes under what limited travel my front suspension has.

 

[ssn696]

And to add on to that, depending on how much you drop it, tall upper ball joints might not be necessary.

I’m running 1/2” taller lowers and a set of Moog 5660’s with half a coil cut, that’s about a 2.5 drop. Tall uppers moved the ball joint above the control arm pivot, making for radical camber changes under what limited travel my front suspension has.

Hmmm. I forgot about the stock control arm issue. I originally bought Hotchkis upper arms in 1994 to use the 12" B/D body spindles and 1LE rotors. These dramatically widened the tie rod end spacing, so I moved over to the Blazer packaged hub solution. I ended up buying the matching Hotchkis lower arms and swapping tall ball joints upper/lower to make up the difference. I have not put this all together yet to see whether my sunk cost decision was good or not.

 

[64nailhead]

The proper way to drop the ride height is with drop spindles. Geometry 📐 s maintained with no compromises. For the rear - install relocation brackets for the lower shock mount.

But as Streetbu indicated, coilovers will give you the best ride and handling once you get the spring rate correct.

 

[UC645]

Hmmm. I forgot about the stock control arm issue. I originally bought Hotchkis upper arms in 1994 to use the 12" B/D body spindles and 1LE rotors. These dramatically widened the tie rod end spacing, so I moved over to the Blazer packaged hub solution. I ended up buying the matching Hotchkis lower arms and swapping tall ball joints upper/lower to make up the difference. I have not put this all together yet to see whether my sunk cost decision was good or not.

It’ll depend on your drop and the height of your UBJs. I was running 1” taller uppers, and after talking to SSM swapped them out for standard height uppers. Went from -1 degree static camber to +2 degrees with no ride height change.


And since I forgot it, Speedway uppers are just copies of stock uppers- ball joint pad and all, save for the added 2 degrees or so of caster. Those will have the same issue with ball joint angle stock arms have.

The proper way to drop the ride height is with drop spindles. Geometry 📐 s maintained with no compromises. For the rear - install relocation brackets for the lower shock mount.

But as Streetbu indicated, coilovers will give you the best ride and handling once you get the spring rate correct.

What, you don’t like riding around on your bump stops like the cool kids do?

 

[Rt Jam]

I'm seeing a huge variant in prices on front control arms for our cars. I like UMI and have a bunch of their parts on my Firebird but UMI and BMR are so much more expensive than South Side Machine and Speedway. Can someone help me understand? I'm leaning toward SSM, since it seems like a good middle ground. Does anyone have any input on them? I'm building my car as an autocrossable daily driver.

Many of those mentioned companies have very similar products. Who knows who uses a better tubing, grease nipple or paint. I'm more inclined to spend my money at the engineering behind the product.

It may not be fair to trash a company from something they did long time ago but SSM made rear lower control arms for my Mustang. They had solid bushings and these broke the control arm mounts on my Mustang. I have had a disrespect for any company that does not recognize the need to allow for articulation since.

UMI, has a roto joint to allow for axle articulation. They got my money since I feel they are one of very few companies that recognize the need. So I chose UMI for my front control arms too.