Man your stuff flash rusts there quick. I can literally leave stuff in bare metal for years here without issue. It might get a little dirty and forms kind of a film over it, but nothing like what you get.
BUICK 1964 Skylark Coupe Project
- Thread starter joesregalproject
- Start date
Just the damn humidity. The sandblasted stuff doesn't rust super fast, it can go a month or two before I notice it starting to flash. Shiny sanded metal flashes over faster, a week, maybe two. If you touch the metal with your bare hand it'll be flash rusted by the next morning. I really wish there was something temporary I could spray over freshly cleaned metal that would prevent flashing and wouldn't affect adhesion. There's a bunch of companies that make acid washes but the acid needs to be neutralized with water which kind of defeats the purpose.
I'm beginning to think that between the humidity, precipitation, and how much salt the road crews like to use, I could not live in a worse area, geographically speaking, for corrosion.
Fantastic work man, you're really getting in there! I haven't gotten to that stage yet but definitely will at some point.
I know everyone loves the fiberglass filler due to it being waterproof, but moisture can still find a way in around the edges if you're not careful and then it's trouble. Bronze is an excellent alternative if you're comfy with a torch and a mess.
As for flash rust, I've never tried it but looked into using sodium metasilicate. Yup, the active ingredient in radiator stop leak. Apparently the alkali nature of it protects the metal if you don't wipe or blow it dry, leaving a film. This film could theoretically be removed later when you're ready to paint. Again, I've never tried it but here's some info.
I know everyone loves the fiberglass filler due to it being waterproof, but moisture can still find a way in around the edges if you're not careful and then it's trouble. Bronze is an excellent alternative if you're comfy with a torch and a mess.
As for flash rust, I've never tried it but looked into using sodium metasilicate. Yup, the active ingredient in radiator stop leak. Apparently the alkali nature of it protects the metal if you don't wipe or blow it dry, leaving a film. This film could theoretically be removed later when you're ready to paint. Again, I've never tried it but here's some info.
Thanks.
It would have to be something that can be sprayed on immediately after blasting or sanding when you don't have time to clean everything and spray primer. It'd have to be removable with wax and grease remover or a solvent, or simply not need to be removed at all without affecting adhesion. Something that can be sprayed on out of an aerosol or cheap spray bottle. Ospho is almost perfect except that the acid needs to be neutralized and thoroughly removed with water or it will affect adhesion.
In an ideal world, cleaning everything and shooting primer immediately would be the best solution, but the reality is that it is rarely a realistic solution.
Okay so apparently something like this exists...
www.eastwood.com
Eastwood After Blast Metal Prep
Cleans, degreases, etches blasted metal to improve paint adhesion
www.eastwood.com
I liked Metalux, it used to be an aluminum powder type filler with catalyst; a two part product that you mixed together into a smooth silver colored consistency and then applied to the surface. Used to dry hard and was more or less impervious to rust. By that name it is no longer available but I know that I have encountered other metal filled fillers that would work about the same.
Nick
Nick
I used Sherwin Williams W4K288 on my car when I stripped it to bare metal. If I remember correctly from my painter you want to use an acid type product not an alkali like sodium metasilicate which can cause adhesion problems down the road.
