Search results

Nah that's how it's been. I worked with a builder to pick out the specs for the parts. Could probably use a bigger cam but for the automatic setup he recommended the summit one. Slightly bigger than stock. Like I said the engine runs well but once I have money saved up I want to build this thing...

Sorry yes. The engine is fine and it will rev when it's not hooked up to the trans, but trying to let the trans to shift on its own the transmission stops at 3000. Now if I took it down myself and hit it really hard it will go all the way to 4500. As far as the engine build itself I've got...

So the engine is healthy and fine completely rebuilt from the ground up. If I leave it out of here at 11 to 5 no problem it's healthy, but if I let the transmission just do its automatic thing it'll get to 3 Grand and just kind of stopped while the transmission does its work. Yeah couple times...

Everyone is saying basically the same thing, which I kind of figured. I just need to redo the rest of the drivetrain. If I'm going to go through the trouble of swapping the trans I'm just going to go ahead and convert it over to manual.

Throttle is adjusted. I have gotten it to max out the revs but only on the freeway and if I get it to kick down just right. I'm assuming it might be the governor.

Yes I had them rebuilt by a local racing shop. They work perfectly fine I just wanted to boost compression.

So currently I have a brand new SBC 350, .030 over, 882 series 194 heads, stock bottom end, Eddelbrock performer intake and Holley 600 cfm carb. All this hooked into a th350 that WAS bolted to the Buick 3.8L v6 and the rear gears are 2.3:1. Im fairly set on reducing the chamber size to 64cc down...

Ok, I took everyone's advise and moved the cable to the proper point. Now it opens fully and the pedal response and feel is much improved. Thank you all for the help.

Thank you, I will do that.

The position of the spring as a little weird but it does have a good amount of preload on it. It does return the pedal when you release.

Here's where I got it set based on the install guide that came with the carb. You're saying to mount it on a hole further forward?

No its original. This car had the v6 in it, which leads me to believe Olds never intended anyone to race that model. If i block the mount on the firewall it should allow more travel without moving the starting point of the cable too much if at all.

Let me clarify, i'm bad at explaining: Pedal to the floor does not open the carb far enough because it hits the carpet. The amount of deflection isn't enough to pull the cable all the way in. I believe the position is fine, this car only has 100k on it. Do I need to modify the pedal or the cable?

I have a few ideas but I need a little advice. Currently the stock pedal hits the trans tunnel and prevents the carb from opening all the way. I can only get the engine to reach 3k rpm. Would it be better to cut the bottom off the pedal or move the pedal away from the firewall? For reference I...

I have a 1980 Cutlass Supreme Brougham currently in the middle of a 350 swap. Been doing some searching but Can't seem to find anywhere that would sell a new OE shroud. Can I make the V6 shroud fit with a bigger radiator? Or does anyone know a good place to get a new one?