On my RideTech setup I've got 750 pound springs, and I'm using 18x9.5 wheels with no rubbing.... weird how our two cars can be so different.
18 or 19" tire options for notched frame
- Thread starter Ace Burt
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Agreed....
You mentioned your fender lip measurements as 26.25" @ the rear fender lip on the 'Beating a dead horse' thread & that you considered your car 'pretty low".
I saw that & thought.... No, yours is lowered. Mine @ 22/F & 24/R" is "pretty low". 😊
Yes. That was 6k daily driven miles @ that height. Skinny, 25" tall tire on 15x6's up front; 15x8's rear w/a taller/wider 15" tire. No possible way to put anything larger up front as set-up.
With the big-brake/18" upgrade, I'll probably do 245/40's on 8's in front & 275/40 on 9's in the back. This revised combo would raise the front between 1-1.5" (1" spindle change + 1/2 difference of revised tire height) & slightly lower the rear ( 1/2 difference of revised tire height). Still not enough to clear the front inner fender wells on this car & will require modified inner tubs. The 18x9" wide rear wheel w/5.25"BS on a stock width G-body housing out back should clear fine (but will be close). At this time I don't want to notch the rails or I would. Too many other irons in the fire....
Bigger brakes can push the track width out 5/16 - 3/8" per side vs. stock.
With drop spindles and low BS wheels, you want to put tall ball joints on (at least 1" taller total between the 2), because the stock geometry has positive camber when the tire goes up, moving it closer to the inside of the fender lip.
With tall ball joints, the top of the tire stays neutral camber or moves inside (negative camber) as the wheel goes up.
With drop spindles and low BS wheels, you want to put tall ball joints on (at least 1" taller total between the 2), because the stock geometry has positive camber when the tire goes up, moving it closer to the inside of the fender lip.
With tall ball joints, the top of the tire stays neutral camber or moves inside (negative camber) as the wheel goes up.
True, for common 'short' 2" drop spindles. I don't know exactly where the SSM 'tall' spindle falls is this regard (increased track width).
The ATS-X spindle doesn't impact track width from the stock G-body set-up. The ATS-X (taller) spindle + SPC upper/SpeedTech lower arms are my camber curve correction option.
This is going to end badly. My money is on you having to compensate with a silly amount of static camber to keep it from bashing the wheel lips to hell and back. Each of these cars (below) has a 17x9.5 wheel with a 275/40R17 mounted... with 3rd Gen F-body backspacing (4.5" or more). The Monte Carlo is the only one without any issues because it has a complete stock front suspension (other than lowering springs) - the Buick and the wagon have had a lot of work to compensate. Order a new set of front wheels.
At this point just going to have to see how it all comes together. I appreciate the input and will let you know how it turns out.
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