1979 Malibu wagon 4 speed questions

[Mighty]

Interesting. I kind of wish we had held on to some of the original parts. My brother also has a 85 regal that he bought off my aunt as his first car back In 2001 or so that has a small block in it. I know there’s some original parts in my dads basement from either the Malibu or the regal, or both cars. I remember reading years ago online that Saginaw were very cheap and plentiful if you break one, is that still the case these days does anyone know? Then again you probably wouldn’t want to replace one with the same thing if you’re breaking them. I just want to get it running and cruise around but I’m curious to see if it’ll run a 13 second 1/4 mile which is pretty laughable these days. Back when we were going to the track in 2000 or 2001 13’s was fairly respectable lol. We never ran it with the new cam/intake/carb, and 9 inch rear with the 4.56 but with the factory rearend and whatever gear ratio that might have been it was a low 14 second car with normal tires. From the link above it sounds like the t10 might be the easiest route if the Saginaw ever gives out. I’m going to try to drag it out at my brothers shop this coming week and get some pictures of it.

 

[Mighty]

There’s an under the hood shot I have. It’s been sitting so long the paint on the drivers side head is starting to flake off. Probably has less than 5k miles on it. Manual steering box from a s10 pick up. I was actually pretty surprised at how much my dad could remember about the engine from over 20 years ago when he built it. 4 bolt block .030 over, scat crank, Keith black pistons, couldn’t remember what kind of rods. I’ve been trying to get him to check around for the cam card to get some specs on it. I just remember it being a pretty radical solid lifter so I’d like to know what to adjust the valves to. Cast iron world product sr torquer heads which I think I’d like to replace down the road some day. With some vortec heads or some kind of aluminum heads so I don’t have to change the intake. Then again my brother is a full time mechanic and has 3 different complete LS engines sitting around his shop collecting dust………. A swap like that would probably be a little much for me to complete without his help though lol.

 

[pagrunt]

I remember reading years ago online that Saginaw were very cheap and plentiful if you break one, is that still the case these days does anyone know?

Not today. In the Pittsburgh area I used to get them for $75 for all I could carry. Now I see them running about $300 for junk units.

 

[Mighty]

Dang thanks pagrunt figured that was probably the case.

 

[Mighty]

I’m going to drag the Muncie and t10 out at the shop tomorrow and snap some pictures. Is there anything specific I should look for to help identify what I have? Any numbers I can find and maybe the number of splines? Will posting them in the transmission section on here be more useful at getting views probably? The transmissions and the car are older than I am and by the time I took an interest in cars manual transmissions were on their way out but I’m sure there’s members on here that will be able to tell me exactly what I have.

 

[Mighty]

Going to bump this thread back up. Finally got a free rack in my brothers shop. I took the gas tank out of the car last fall and ordered a new one from rock auto for $164. Laid them side by side and it looks awfully close. I put the battery in it Tuesday night and put the original sending unit in the new tank and for some reason my brother tore into the tailgate and now it’s all apart. I’m pulling the Holley blue fuel pump off of it and putting a mechanical pump on. Tank fit but I took it back out because I’m considering running all new fuel lines. I pounded all of the wheel studs out and am going to put the new ones in next time I’m up there so I can keep the new wheels on it. Also noticed as I racked the car up that the passenger side of the front bumper sagged down an inch or two. I figured we forgot a core support bolt 20 years ago or something. Turns out the nut and washer fell off the bolt at some point but the bushing and everything was still in place luckily so that’s fixed. I started cleaning the interior out and found an envelope full of receipts from the year 2000 that my dad saved of all of the parts he used. Lifetime warranty u-joints, starter, alternator, ball joints but it’s all probably junk advanced auto parts stuff. I’m going to post up some pictures of the underside of the car so some of you more well rounded G body guys can take a look and see if anything sticks out. I’m pretty sure I read that the rear sections of the frames on these cars are bad for rusting but mine doesn’t look too terrible. Also, any opinions on how I should clean up my sending unit and maybe paint it? I know the wagon sending units are almost impossible to find and mine isn’t in too bad of shape so I’m hoping to preserve it. Pictures incoming

 

[Mighty]

 

[Mighty]

Factory saginaw is out now too. Had a little dripping around the driveshaft so wanted to make sure nothing needed replaced. While it’s out we might stick my spare super t10 up in its place and see how much different it is. I’ve seen a good write up on here of this swap.

 

[stew86MCSS396]

I understand at full droop, the slip yoke will be out further but on the ground it will take up some of the space. To me the yoke looks a little extended too much and possibly the source of the leak. I had a M20 in my signature handle and at some point I replaced it with a Saginaw. I fashioned up my own adapter and used the M20s hurst shifter. I can't remember which shifter rods I was able to reuse and which ones I had fabricated on my own. Never had sticky tires but I did drive it gently except those times I forgot to. Never hurt it but I did eventually put the M20 back in. Oh yes signature does imply this was behind a 396.

 

[Mighty]

New driveshaft is coming….