How are the G Force members? And what's with the frame extensions? I see they came about with the 200R4, but why wouldn't you just redrill the frame? The bits where the pipe passes through look pretty wide, do they play nice with a big block?
1983 Big Block Monte Slow Build
- Thread starter Supercharged111
- Start date
G force units are legit and over built! I had one for a 355/TH350 setup and now for my 5.3/4L80 setup. The frame extension are needed on pre 83 cars...there is no mount area to drill holes in.
Was 83 a cutover year? Or being an 83 am I guaranteed to have that frame meat that I need? I found a pic of a g force cross member installed and now understand the need for the extensions. Bear in mind when I ask these easy *ss questions it's because to answer them myself requires a trip to the hangar. Worse yet, half the time when I do go I forget to check on stuff like this. Getting old is a mfer.
Found out which carb I actually have, it's PN 17085212 which comes back as an 85-90 GM 454 truck carb. Wouldn't 85-90 still be a Mark IV? Sure would be nice if it were, then I could hunt down some large ovals and be on my way to some decent power. I guess I need to unearth block and head casting numbers next. I could swear I ran one of them before and it came back as a GenV, but that was years ago.
Forgot to mention this was the coldest start I'd ever gone for. It wasn't all that happy about it and by the time I got it running the choke had opened up and the high idle was no more. I got the ground wet too which is what sent me on the hunt for the carb'd part number so I can go about rejetting.
Forgot to mention this was the coldest start I'd ever gone for. It wasn't all that happy about it and by the time I got it running the choke had opened up and the high idle was no more. I got the ground wet too which is what sent me on the hunt for the carb'd part number so I can go about rejetting.
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Found a really good article to help me better understand the qjet.
So tomorrow or Friday I'll swing out to the hangar, check timing, check vacuum, and yank the carb so I can tear it down and give it a basic rebuild and see what Jets and rods are in it so I can lean it out a bit. Gonna swipe the wideband out of the dually instead of making timed runs to dial it in.
So tomorrow or Friday I'll swing out to the hangar, check timing, check vacuum, and yank the carb so I can tear it down and give it a basic rebuild and see what Jets and rods are in it so I can lean it out a bit. Gonna swipe the wideband out of the dually instead of making timed runs to dial it in.
Finally got to yanking the carb, but first I wanted to check the vacuum it pulls and where the timing was. At 750 RPM, it showed 13-14" of vacuum and an excessive 35ish degrees of timing with the vacuum line disconnected. When I revved the car it went up more, as it should. I don't know how there was no audible knock. I'm going to have to verify the balancer is accurate, the rubber looks good though. Balancer had marks at 0, 8, and 15. The latter 2 should be a far more realistic starting point. For now though, the carb is off so I can scatter it, see what Jets I have, and get smaller ones. I plan to cheat and tune with a wideband, makes real short work of this stuff.
I'd long been suspicious of the timing settings. He said he set it at 64 degrees and I dismissed that as an incoherent rant, but 64 indicated degrees of timing really aren't that much of an exaggeration by the looks of things. The reason I checked vacuum before tearing it out was because the idle screws had zero effect on the idle quality. The qjet tuning article mentioned this could be caused by the needles being pulled out of the Jets. Another potential cause here is that they can't lean the motor out enough to matter because of the elevation change. Now I need to research what kind of vacuum levels I should be anticipating. I feel like my old 289 had high teens for vacuum, but that was back around 2002 so I really don't remember. I suppose I could check my other vehicles for comparison.
Pulled the top off the carb and dug out the main jets. They were 75s, I think I'll order some 70s and 72s to start with.
The bowl was pretty filthy so another reason I'm glad to be doing this. The rod looks like it's marked 53S or 58S. The secondary metering rods are clearly marked EF. You can see the part throttle screw next to the piston spring. This isn't adjustable as the carb sits. That is, at least not until I knock this plug out.
Another emissionism is this riveted on choke housing.
I'm going to remove the housing and likely hot tank the carb at my neighbor's transmission shop. It's not that nasty so should clean up real nice. Also helps the carb was in good working order so no real surprises just yet. What I am completely ignorant to are the air bleeds and what they do.
The bowl was pretty filthy so another reason I'm glad to be doing this. The rod looks like it's marked 53S or 58S. The secondary metering rods are clearly marked EF. You can see the part throttle screw next to the piston spring. This isn't adjustable as the carb sits. That is, at least not until I knock this plug out.
Another emissionism is this riveted on choke housing.
I'm going to remove the housing and likely hot tank the carb at my neighbor's transmission shop. It's not that nasty so should clean up real nice. Also helps the carb was in good working order so no real surprises just yet. What I am completely ignorant to are the air bleeds and what they do.
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So I soaked the Carb in Berryman's overnight, then blasted the carb with Berryman's carb cleaner today and there's still some sh*t sticking in the bottom of the bowl.
I'll snag a wire cup brush for my Dremel from Lowe's tomorrow to get that out but I think to get the rest of the body squeaky clean I'll have to wait for my neighbor to return so I can tank the big 3 body bits. I did some math and it seems that a set of 71 mains will get me dead nuts where the car was in MI on that circuit. That will be my starting point as I'm certain the car was off there as well.
I'll snag a wire cup brush for my Dremel from Lowe's tomorrow to get that out but I think to get the rest of the body squeaky clean I'll have to wait for my neighbor to return so I can tank the big 3 body bits. I did some math and it seems that a set of 71 mains will get me dead nuts where the car was in MI on that circuit. That will be my starting point as I'm certain the car was off there as well.
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