1984 Cutlass Calais / BBO 455 build thread *UPDATED*

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I just found this thread (having recently joined) and it's definitely got my attention.

I have a 1979 Cutlass Calais with a 260 . . and a good-running-when-pulled 455 from a 1972 Olds 98 I used to own. Of course, the motor's been sitting for about 7 years (time and no money, or money and no time. More recently, no time or money).

Due to things I'd read about clearance issues, etc., I was considering going with a 403 instead, as I know everything would fit, and BELIEVE that:

1) There's more header availability using a SB Olds (is this actually true?)
2) There's more intake manifold availability using a SB Olds (is this actually true?)

Plus, I'll admit, I want to keep my AC.

My intent with the motor is:
1) Must run on 87 octane
2) Must run deceptively smoothly
3) Regardless of whether I go with a 403 or a 455, I'm NOT going for rowdy revving - I'd like peak torque (or at least 90% of peak torque) to happen in, say, the low-to-mid 2000s RPM, and peak horsepower at mid-4000s to 5000 RPM. That's my preference, adjust for reality. I'd prefer to give up a little top end power to have a very broad, flat torque curve.

(by the way, I'm used to thinking in SAE net terms with power because, with the exception of one car, everything I've had was 1972 or later)

So, In addition to my question on header/intake availability (I'd probably just go with W/Z manifolds if I go with a 455), I am wondering:

1) http://www.robertpowersmotorsports.com/G-bodyV6-V8.html says that the lower alternator bracket must come from a 455-equipped car from the 70s. But, someone else has mentioned that, even swapping to a big block, the mounting brackets from the 260 will work with no problems. Which is correct? Do I need a special bracket, or can I use everything (not counting the A/C stuff) in terms of brackets and accessories from my 260?

2) I have ZERO fabrication skills, but since my AC is ice-cold, I want to keep the factory system. Does anyone make any kind of prefabricated brackets that will let me use my stock R4 compressor with the BBO? Barring that, anyone have an altered bracket that will let me do so?

3) I'd like to have a factory-ish looking air-box - I'm not much of a fan of the open element air cleaners - I'd go with either an aftermarket dual-snorkle enclosed one, or something that looks stock for a 455. Doing this, what are my limitations on intakes for the 455 in this car? I do NOT want to cut or alter my hood (want everything to appear stock on the outside)


Thanks....
 
I'm a big block fan for a fast daily drive able car but with zero fabrication skills the sb is a better choice for your first swap. Powers car is an excellent example though 12.3 @ 110 & 15.5 mpg still tuning and jump on the interstate & take her out of state ready with power brakes steering AC etc. Dwight's is another on car domain sorry I don't have the link & I know it also has good pics & info. Dwights like Roberts ran a qjet & overdrive with high stall but lock up converter for better driveability & mileage. I think he ran a best of 12.0 @ 112 & pulled off 20 hwy with a smaller cam! The question isn't how many intakes & headers but any & price. The 455 has both but they are more expensive. Somebody can pipe in on that.
 
(huh,thought I posted a reply, but it's not here...)

Thanks!! Interesting info - wait, is Powers the guy from that robertpowers link I mentioned earlier? If not, who is Powers, and got a link?

12.3 and 15.5 MPG is pretty impressive.

Interestingly, the bone-stock 455 was able to get 15 MPG highway for me when installed in that 1972 Olds 98 . . which comes close to 5000 lbs, doesn't it?

Is Dwight's car also a 455? 20 MPG is impressive for a car that can do 12.0 and has "ancient" technology! Who is Dwight? If you manage to find the link for his car's info, let me know.

And I guess since I'm not going for mega-high revs (will never touch 5500 RPM), the limited intake options and inability to (easily) use headers might not be so much of a problem.

In any case, if the ONLY fabrication using a BBO would require would be for the AC brackets, then I can live with that! If there's much more than that, then it becomes a sort of "well, it depends" proposition for me.
 
Just a quick question... when you did the main and rod bearings did you have anything done to the block other than honing? And the crank did you have it turned? I am just now diving into my 455 and I went to go buy main bearings and rod beari gs and I was told to have the crank turned and balanced 1st or Im wasting my time.
 
Wow guys, sorry for the sporadic updates, between the Cutlass, the Crown Vic, and now the Bronco II, I have too many projects! Small update...

-The motor is going back together now. I chose to redo the ENTIRE fuel system due to all the issues I had with fuel delivery before. The car now sports a RobbMc Performance 1/2" pickup and sending unit, 1/2" fuel line back to front, a RobbMc 550HP fuel pump, and 1/2" dual feed line for my Holley. :mrgreen: If this doesn't solve my fuel issues, I'm going to loose my mind! :shock: Put in a little hotter Lunati Cam: Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/268, Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 219/227, Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .499/.510, LSA/ICL: 112/108. Last but not least, the Hooker ProComp headers are now going to be on the car now, I figure I might as well do it now, while the motor is out of the car... This car WILL be done by spring, so help me god! :roll:


sadisticsavage said:
Just a quick question... when you did the main and rod bearings did you have anything done to the block other than honing? And the crank did you have it turned? I am just now diving into my 455 and I went to go buy main bearings and rod beari gs and I was told to have the crank turned and balanced 1st or Im wasting my time.


The Block was hot tanked and honed, nothing else was done, since it was a low milage motor. The crank was turned .10 under, but not balanced. You should probably have your crank turned, but unless your planning on spinning it above 6000 RPM for long periods of time, or are planning more than a mild to moderate build, there is really no point in balancing the crank...
 
Great job on the build, sorry about the motor though. Man does your Cutlass look sharp, those wheels really set it off. Doing the same build but going to be a 468, just ordered pistons and just picked up my C heads from the shop. Your 400 is that long or short shaft. Most of the older 400's are long shaft. Don't know about sticking with that or converting to the short shaft. Great build though! I also have a pick of the airgap I picked up which I think will just set it off.
 

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Another update, been focusing on the Cutlass for a little while now, and she lives again!

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWsyWTdKB0o&feature=share&list=UUhYW5DI8t5EFRAAmkeuO3PQ[/youtube]

The car now has a hotter cam (Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 219/227 Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .499/.510), BIG hooker SuperComp headers (2in primaries, 3.5in collector), MSD 6AL-2 box with 2 step launch control, line lock, and will soon sport 4000CFM of electric fans too!

Once she is back on the road, there will definitely be more videos!

The next task is building a bullet proof 8.5 10 bolt to go behind it...
 
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