i would be damn sure there is no other rust areas. most of them have hidden rust but if you say the frame and body mounts are good then go for it. every one i have seen with bad floors has had also had bad rockers and from the looks of the quarters i would really really be tearing into it to be damn sure. i have a regal and a cutty that were both southern cars that were suppose to be rust free. the regal for example had 3 body mounts pushed through that you would have never had a clue before pulling the body off and the cutlass had rust in the top part of the drivers door jamb, both fixable but still issues. i bought a 84 cutlass that i ended up parting that looked perfect until we tore into everything and found out country roads can destroy a car in a hurry. im not telling you not to do it, im saying i would be damn sure you know what you are doing first.
1984 Cutlass Calais Build Pics (SOLD)
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Yeah the body mounts are deffinatly good, My old monte had bad body mounts, which was funny because from the otuside, it looked Perfect, had arizona doors on it and an arizona front clip.regalman4925 said:
that car, should have been parted, it was rusty.
The rockers are pretty good on this car, the frame is 100% tho, Ive seen way worse, expecially in the salt belt. hell we made race cars out of worse haha.
Sure I could find a better body, But even 1000$ gbodys up here have rust in the floors.
I got this car, driven to my house for 200$
Interior wise, its getting 2 basic seats that weigh like 20lbs a piece.
Im probably even eliminating the dash.
Ive got about 200 - 250lbs shaved off it already, ym goal is another 400 more Minimum.
Im in process of building my small block in that hp range, and ive got a fully built powerglide with a 3000 stall going in.
Posi and 3.73s should come this week.
Im shooting for low 12s for less then 3g total cost.
are you building the car for raceing? it is possible to find almost rust free cars in the salt belt, im in omaha and i have come up with a few on them over the years. i almost bought a 50,000 mile 86 regal that i swear on everything lokked like it had never left the showroom, it was burgendy and had every option but a roof option(t-top or astro roof) but they wanted 4 grand for it but i build customs and didnt have the heart to alter it so i passed on it. i paid 360 for my 84 cutlass calais and it had a small floor board issue but the rest was all good, i think its because it was garage kept until the starter went out and then sat in a driveway away from salt for over 5 years.
in western NY these cars dont exist because of 6 race tracks around us, plus WNY dumps more salt then anywhere else on a regular basis.
The car is going to be a Rat Rod, summer use, 90% drag strip oriented.
Theres like 2 cars forsale locally for less than 1200, both have rust issues.
We shall see what happens through this build, Im non intrested in a show quality car, its gonna be satin black and Im trying to do the whole car without any bondo. I'll probably even leave most of the dents in it.
I plan on getting a 69 - 71 nova sometime.
The car is going to be a Rat Rod, summer use, 90% drag strip oriented.
Theres like 2 cars forsale locally for less than 1200, both have rust issues.
We shall see what happens through this build, Im non intrested in a show quality car, its gonna be satin black and Im trying to do the whole car without any bondo. I'll probably even leave most of the dents in it.
I plan on getting a 69 - 71 nova sometime.
It seems odd the frame doesn't have any rust. Here in Delaware (just below the rust belt), most of the G-Bodies I have looked at had rust free bodies, but the frame behind the rear wheels is usually shot. As long as the frame is good though, there is nothing wrong with saving it, especially if it was only $200 to start with. The cars here are nothing like what is around in western Pennsylvania though; there aren't anymore older cars around because everything rusts-out so fast (unless they were always garaged and never driven in the winter). I imagine it is the same way, if not worse, in New York.
Yeah I was surprised at the rear frame being solid, but its all good thankfully.
They turn the roads white with salt up here, if they think it might ice over night we get salt.
So these cars end up shot, even turning it into a rat rod.
This car has seen its last winter for as long as I own it 😀
They turn the roads white with salt up here, if they think it might ice over night we get salt.
So these cars end up shot, even turning it into a rat rod.
This car has seen its last winter for as long as I own it 😀
sourced some parts I needed today. Had to drive an hour each way ontop of renting a truck to pick them up 🙁
These cost me 150$ crazy for them, but the door is like mint.
These cost me 150$ crazy for them, but the door is like mint.
The floor is not the biggest problem I see, it's that 1/4 panel rot behind the trim. That will be the biggest PITA to fix. Plus, it probably has rust in other places. Happily, from what I saw, your car seems to be one of the ones that was painted before welding. Mine was not and it rotted out a lot of the box sections because of it. Remember that you can butcher a floor and 99.99999% of the world will never know. The exterior sheet metal is a different story.
yeah im going to cut the rust off behind the wheel.
Ive got a friend who makes stock car bodys, so he can make me a filler panel which will work out good.
I'm a cut and weld kind of guy, not really into glass and bondo.
As far as the chrome trim, Im more then likely losing all of it.
I think im also going to remove most of the trunk floor.
My goal is to get this car down to like 2800lbs.
Ive got a friend who makes stock car bodys, so he can make me a filler panel which will work out good.
I'm a cut and weld kind of guy, not really into glass and bondo.
As far as the chrome trim, Im more then likely losing all of it.
I think im also going to remove most of the trunk floor.
My goal is to get this car down to like 2800lbs.
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