You wouldn't get the clicking if the circuit was closed. Either a failed solenoid, or a seized starter.
1987 Monte Carlo SS won’t start just clicks :(
- Thread starter Panga1995
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But the starter and solenoid are brand new? Is it common for a brand new starter to fail ?
In this day of quality & craftsmanship, yes.
I want to thank everyone who has replied, I have double checked battery cables, battery and starter and they are both good clicking is not from starter it is coming from somewhere in the engine compartment on the drivers side. Sounds like a relay or something idk, the car has an scytek astra 777 alarm installed as well as a starter kill relay I have tried to bypass the relay and still only clicking. Could this be an ignition switch? The one located on the steering Column? Car ran before being parked. Now the car doesn’t even turn over and doesn’t sound like starter is engaging
Use a jumper wire from the big top terminal on the starter or from the battery + to the small terminal arrowed in the picture. That will prove whether the starter is working or not.
If it works the problem is in the alarm stuff which I know nothing about. Would need pictures of what is under the hood and schematics for it to diagnose problems.
If it works the problem is in the alarm stuff which I know nothing about. Would need pictures of what is under the hood and schematics for it to diagnose problems.
Do you have this? https://www.scytek.net/main/files/download/manual/galaxy/a20.pdf
Page 6 talks about an override switch so there should be a switch installed somewhere in the car and also how to override with the remote.
No schematic so far which makes sense it would make it easy to render it useless.
Page 6 talks about an override switch so there should be a switch installed somewhere in the car and also how to override with the remote.
No schematic so far which makes sense it would make it easy to render it useless.
Take some booster cables, and test. Connect battery red and black, and the other black to engine block, and touch the red to the terminal on the starter.
Check the starter drive that engages the flywheel I’ve had mine not retract and it did the same thing you stated, may need to shim starter.
Did you happen to test your "brand, new, it's good" starter before installing it? The test itself is just taking a car battery and a pair of jumper cables, attaching the positive side to the positive terminal on the battery and the 3/8ths copper stud on the solenoid, and then attaching the negative to its battery terminal and then just touching the other end to the case. If good the starter should wind up and motor like crazy. Heavy, heavy whir.
IN situ, do you have all the wires that used to be attached to that heavy copper stud and the nut tight? is that skinny wire that goes to one of the #10 studs, think the inboard one nearest the block, attached to the correct stud and the nut tight?
Did you take some time to put that new battery on a charger and bring it right up to full boogie? A dealer can say that his batteries are fully charged but they lose zots just sitting on the shelf and don't get shipped fully charged to begin with. It usually takes a day, depending on the charger to get the battery to a full load.
El Cam's comment about the battery cables is valid. Even though they may appear sound, they can be severely corroded and nasty internally and you would never discover it unless you pealed the insulation away. Easier to score a new pair and have done with it.
Not sure about that alarm. It served your Mom well, I would guess, but they are like most things mechanical and can die of old age and rot and rust. Might be wise to decommission it completely and remove it from whatever circuit it has been tied to.
IN situ, do you have all the wires that used to be attached to that heavy copper stud and the nut tight? is that skinny wire that goes to one of the #10 studs, think the inboard one nearest the block, attached to the correct stud and the nut tight?
Did you take some time to put that new battery on a charger and bring it right up to full boogie? A dealer can say that his batteries are fully charged but they lose zots just sitting on the shelf and don't get shipped fully charged to begin with. It usually takes a day, depending on the charger to get the battery to a full load.
El Cam's comment about the battery cables is valid. Even though they may appear sound, they can be severely corroded and nasty internally and you would never discover it unless you pealed the insulation away. Easier to score a new pair and have done with it.
Not sure about that alarm. It served your Mom well, I would guess, but they are like most things mechanical and can die of old age and rot and rust. Might be wise to decommission it completely and remove it from whatever circuit it has been tied to.
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