I bought my truck new in white for this very reason. Even after it had a few small dents in it, most people never saw them. I did a less than perfect quickie respray on it a few years back and it looks really good until I point out where it is not perfect. The secret is blocking things level, and not leaving stuff lumpy, or full of 80 grit sand scratches.
Basic sanding of filler and good, solid (not checked) paint goes like this:
36 grit and/or Surform File to get basic shape in filler
80 grit to refine the filler or do primary shaping if it is not a bad application
220 grit to finish filler or old paint for primer/surfacer
220 grit to block 1st application of primer/surfacer
400 grit to block 2nd application of primer/surfacer or to prep solid paint for new paint. A red Scotchbrite may also be used here, and I tend to use it as a final once over before I apply the final paint.
After paint, and you want to cut and buff, goes something like this:
800 grit to start to remove runs ( on a 3in long piece of paint mixing stick)
1000 grit to finish runs/ start cutting orange peel/dirt
1500-2000 grit final sand before buffing.
Tools I used to do my car: 7 piece hammer and dolly set, Air File, MIG Welder, 4.5 in angle grinder, rt angle die grinder with whiz wheel attachment, straight die grinder with stones and wire wheels, cordless Dremel, scissors, tinner's snips, 3in cutoff tool, blow gun, 18in Dura-Block with 220 grit paper ( bought in a roll), soft sanding block, paint mixing stick wrapped in wet or dry sand paper, Jitterbug sander ( I don't like DA's), small steel bristle hand brushes, chip brushes, Bondo Spreaders, 100 pack of discount razor blades, touch up gun ( 3 of them, but they're less than $10 ea.), top coat gun, and a 1 in putty knife ( for stripping paint and sealant). Some of this stuff is borrowed, some bought new at Harbor Freight tools, Wal Mart, Tool Tent sales, etc.
If you follow my build thread or my Myspace pics, I will be trying to write and document a tutorial on proper block sanding techniques for the beginner. Much of getting it right is based on feel though, as it is as much art and sculpture as it is science. Knowing how a car's metal is supposed to look when it is stamped is the key to making corners and edges look like nothing has ever been touched.
Oh, and if you didn't know, I am not, nor have I ever been a professional in any automotive field. I am a hobbyist and I deliver pizza for a living ( but am going to college for an engineering degree as well). So, what I share is not meant to be taken as gospel. Take it for what it's worth, which is the internet ramblings of another human being. Most of what I say works well for me, but I can't teach the details online, and omit quite a lot. I say this because I don't want to be blamed if you mess something up.
Basic sanding of filler and good, solid (not checked) paint goes like this:
36 grit and/or Surform File to get basic shape in filler
80 grit to refine the filler or do primary shaping if it is not a bad application
220 grit to finish filler or old paint for primer/surfacer
220 grit to block 1st application of primer/surfacer
400 grit to block 2nd application of primer/surfacer or to prep solid paint for new paint. A red Scotchbrite may also be used here, and I tend to use it as a final once over before I apply the final paint.
After paint, and you want to cut and buff, goes something like this:
800 grit to start to remove runs ( on a 3in long piece of paint mixing stick)
1000 grit to finish runs/ start cutting orange peel/dirt
1500-2000 grit final sand before buffing.
Tools I used to do my car: 7 piece hammer and dolly set, Air File, MIG Welder, 4.5 in angle grinder, rt angle die grinder with whiz wheel attachment, straight die grinder with stones and wire wheels, cordless Dremel, scissors, tinner's snips, 3in cutoff tool, blow gun, 18in Dura-Block with 220 grit paper ( bought in a roll), soft sanding block, paint mixing stick wrapped in wet or dry sand paper, Jitterbug sander ( I don't like DA's), small steel bristle hand brushes, chip brushes, Bondo Spreaders, 100 pack of discount razor blades, touch up gun ( 3 of them, but they're less than $10 ea.), top coat gun, and a 1 in putty knife ( for stripping paint and sealant). Some of this stuff is borrowed, some bought new at Harbor Freight tools, Wal Mart, Tool Tent sales, etc.
If you follow my build thread or my Myspace pics, I will be trying to write and document a tutorial on proper block sanding techniques for the beginner. Much of getting it right is based on feel though, as it is as much art and sculpture as it is science. Knowing how a car's metal is supposed to look when it is stamped is the key to making corners and edges look like nothing has ever been touched.
Oh, and if you didn't know, I am not, nor have I ever been a professional in any automotive field. I am a hobbyist and I deliver pizza for a living ( but am going to college for an engineering degree as well). So, what I share is not meant to be taken as gospel. Take it for what it's worth, which is the internet ramblings of another human being. Most of what I say works well for me, but I can't teach the details online, and omit quite a lot. I say this because I don't want to be blamed if you mess something up.
