200r4 transmission
- Thread starter scarborough
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I believe it needs an adapter since you aren’t using an SBC motor and TV cable.
You need a TV cable, the crossmember will have to be modified or get the correct one, and you need the correct bracketry at the carb/throttle body for the TV cable. The trans cooler lines might have to be reworked a little, but nothing too crazy.
Really, it's a relatively straight forward swap. Word on the street is that the driveshaft will work, but I'd make sure that there is a minimum of 1" of slip and modify if needed. But you should be able to reuse your current one.
Really, it's a relatively straight forward swap. Word on the street is that the driveshaft will work, but I'd make sure that there is a minimum of 1" of slip and modify if needed. But you should be able to reuse your current one.
Most 2004r trannys have the multi fit bell housing so it fits chevy and BOP without an adapter.
Dip stick tubes are different between chevys and BOPs.
If running a lock up torque converter i recommend getting a kit that uses a vacuum switch.
The dipstick tube is GM p/n 25508003. There's a rubber grommet it sits in at the bottom, GM p/n 1259475. The red top dipstick is GM p/n 15531900. With the 455, you MIGHT need to modify/relocate the upper bracket to be able to bolt it to the head because of deck height differences. The TV cable for Oldsmobile is GM p/n 25508262 for Olds V8. There's not a tremendous amount of height difference here so I believe the 307 TV cable would work with a 455. Depends on your intake height. If stock, it SHOULD work. You just have to make sure the cable can be adjusted properly. I don't know if there are other cables out there that work better than the GM units. If anyone's done this, please chime in if there is a better cable out there for this.
As far as the lockup feature, JMO..........
If you want to run a lockup converter, the ECM normally tells the converter when to lockup. Without the ECM, you need to tell the converter yourself. IMO, as there's other ways to do the same thing, the B&M kit with adjustable controller seems like the best bet in order to dial it in where you want it, and turn it on or off whenever you want it, without a bunch of extra crap running everywhere. If you run a speedo cable with your setup, then this should work great as it has a signal generator tapping into the speedo cable. Looks very easy to install, relatively.
www.holley.com
As far as the lockup feature, JMO..........
If you want to run a lockup converter, the ECM normally tells the converter when to lockup. Without the ECM, you need to tell the converter yourself. IMO, as there's other ways to do the same thing, the B&M kit with adjustable controller seems like the best bet in order to dial it in where you want it, and turn it on or off whenever you want it, without a bunch of extra crap running everywhere. If you run a speedo cable with your setup, then this should work great as it has a signal generator tapping into the speedo cable. Looks very easy to install, relatively.
B&M 70244 B&M Converter Lockup Controller
The B&M converter lockup controller provides dash-mounted control to govern converter lockup at any speed between 30 and 90 mph. These kits eliminate converter lock and unlock cycling and premature unwanted converter lockup.
www.holley.com
The aftermarket replacement cables work alright, especially if something other than a Qjet is being used. They are adjustable in length in two spots. The factory 307 bracket should work with a 455 and Qjet with a stock cable. Always check TV for full pull and geometry. What crossmember are you planning on using?
Drive shaft is the same length as the TH350, Yoke is same at 27 spline.
Speedometer cable is in the same place.
Transmission mount and crossmember is further back than the TH350. Modify or purchase a crossmember.
Shift shaft is a few inches further back, use shims and longer bolts to move the frame bracket back if using a column shifter.
Upper cooler line should screw right in, the lower line needs a little bend.
200-4Rs all have the universal bellhousing, some are not drilled on all holes. use the TH350 as a template if you need to drill them. Just line up both bellhousings face to face bolt them together on the bottom holes and drill.
Flexplate should have both bolt hole patterns for the converter.
If theTH350 used bolts and nuts on the converter to flex plate you will need metric bolts for the converter.
TH350 dust cover is not a direct fit on the 200-4R.
TV cable and bracket is different than the TH350 kickdown, have to customize that.
Speedometer cable is in the same place.
Transmission mount and crossmember is further back than the TH350. Modify or purchase a crossmember.
Shift shaft is a few inches further back, use shims and longer bolts to move the frame bracket back if using a column shifter.
Upper cooler line should screw right in, the lower line needs a little bend.
200-4Rs all have the universal bellhousing, some are not drilled on all holes. use the TH350 as a template if you need to drill them. Just line up both bellhousings face to face bolt them together on the bottom holes and drill.
Flexplate should have both bolt hole patterns for the converter.
If theTH350 used bolts and nuts on the converter to flex plate you will need metric bolts for the converter.
TH350 dust cover is not a direct fit on the 200-4R.
TV cable and bracket is different than the TH350 kickdown, have to customize that.
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these dip stick tubes do not mount to the head, chevy or BOP. they bolt to the 2 o'clock bell housing to engine bolt hole. this hole is in different locations between chevys and BOPs. hence the different tubes. or at least the bracket on the tube in different, but welded to the tube.
The aftermarket locking ones need the tube tab bent on an Olds, they are in the sbc position. I needed a locking dipstick at the track.
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