200r4 transmission

[denny]

what's needed to run a 200 r4 transmission in a 87 Olds cutlass with 455, no computer. I'm currently running a th350.. I no the transmission will need upgrades ( future plans) just wondering what parts I would need beside the transmission and converter.

by the time you get all the upgrades you would be better off installing a gear venders overdrive in that 350. that would give you a 6 speed and a much better transmission (turbo 350). start by getting a price on all the things you need for that 2004r. been there myself.

 

[scoti]

The OD difference (on my calculated combo) would yield 350rpm minimum increase (w/o calculating the benefit of lock-up which would add to that number) over a GV set-up. That difference would have impact on the whole reason for wanting an OD trans or GV set-up. I want to drive on the highway w/traffic @ 70-75mph around 2200rpm. Gear Vendors = $2800 + applicable taxes & shipping costs. A decent trans can be built for 3k.

Beyond the cost & final drive variables, the 1st gear ratios/leverage of the OD transmissions are deeper vs. a th400/350. This is where I like the 200-4r vs the 700. I like the combo of the slightly higher than stock first gear (for the tighter rpm split between the 1-2 shift) w/the lower 4th gear.

 

[vandyman]

I have a 200-4R 1987 CZF with ten thousand miles on a rebuild sitting in my shed doing nothing.

 

[scarborough]

by the time you get all the upgrades you would be better off installing a gear venders overdrive in that 350. that would give you a 6 speed and a much better transmission (turbo 350). start by getting a price on all the things you need for that 2004r. been there myself.

good advice, thanks everyone for the feed back.

 

[scoti]

THM 200-4R Application Chart​

This chart shows all the information I could find on the various 200-4R calibrations.​

Hopefully it will help those looking for good used transmissions/cores or B/D/G-Body owners that had their 200-4R replaced with a wrecking yard unit & fall under the "All 200-4R's are the same Joe, it'll fit" syndrome {my 85 Monte Carlo SS had a code "3OG" trans when I bought it}.

​

1982​	1983	1984	1985	1986	1987	1988	1989	1990	APPLICATION
9AA​	3AA​	4AA​	5AA​	6AA​					Cadillac w/o E.C.S.​
			5AB​	5AC​					UNKNOWN​
9AP​	3AP​	4AP​	5AP​	6AP​					Cadillac with E.C.S.​
	3BR​	4BQ​	5BQ​	6BR​	7BR​				Regal Type-T/GN/GNX​
		4BT​							B/D 4.1 V-6​
	3BY​	4BY​							4.1 V-6​
				6CA​					Pontiac G/P & 2+2 305 H V-8​
					7CC​	8CC​			305 H​
	4CH​	5CH​			7CY​	8CY​			4.3 V-6​
					7CH​	8CH​			4.3 V-6​
			5CY​	6CH​					Pontiac Gran Prix 3.8 V-6​
					7CT​	8CT​	9CT​	0CT​	UNKNOWN​
					7CU​	8CU​	9CU​	0CU​	UNKNOWN​
		4CQ​	5CQ​	6CZ​	7CZ​	8CZ​			Monte Carlo SS 305 G 3.73​
9CR​		4CR​							307 Y V-8​
			5CR​	6CR​	7CR​				305 H V-8​
				6HC​					UNKNOWN​
					7HD​				UNKNOWN​
9HE​		3HE​	4HE​	5HE​					UNKNOWN​
					7HF​				UNKNOWN​
9HG​			4HG​	5HG​					UNKNOWN​
					7HT​				UNKNOWN​
				6KB​					Olds Cutlass 307 Y​
								0KD​	UNKNOWN​
				6KJ​	7KJ​	8KJ​	9KJ​	0KJ​	307 Y 3.08/3.23​
					7KT​	8KT​	9KT​	0KT​	307 Y 2.93​
9OG​		3OG​	4OG​	5OG​	6KC​	7KC​			B/D 307 Y 2.73​
		4OJ​	5OJ​						307 Y V-8​
9OM​	3OM​	4OM​	5OM​						B/D/G DIESEL V-8​
	3OZ​	4OZ​	5OZ​	6KZ​	7KZ​				Hurst Olds/Cutlass 442 3.73​
							9TA​		Pontiac Turbo Trans-Am​

DECIPHERING THE CHART CODES:​

The transmission application tag is located on the passenger side rear of the transmission on the case just above & forward of the trans mount.

1982-1985 transmissions use a two letter code on the tag & 1986-1990 transmissions use a three letter code with an "F" at the end of the code {there may be other letters but all the 86-90 transmissions I've checked have an "F"}.

1982-85 transmissions use a 13 digit numbering system to show what it is & when it was built. These numbers are on the bottom of the transmission tag below the letter code {EXAMPLE: 123 2T85CQ1234}. The first three digits are the Julian date {the date the transmission was built, julian date is the start of trans production so 001 would not be january 1st. The 4th digit is the Plant Shift the transmission was built {1=1st shift; 2=2nd shift; 3=3rd shift}. The 5th digit may be a letter or number & is the code for the Hydramatic plant that the trans was built at. The 6th & 7th digits are the model year of the vehicle the trans was originally installed in. The 8th and 9th digits are the two letter code of the transmission & denotes internal parts & valve body calibration of the unit. The 10th through 13th digits is the serial number of the unit.

1986-1990 transmissions use a 15 digit numbering system {EXAMPLE: 9 123 2T86CZF 1234}. The 1st digit is the Calender year the unit was built. The 2nd,3rd, & 4th digits are the Julian Date {see above}. The 5th digit is the Plant Shift the trans was built. The 6th digit is the Hydramatic plant the trans was built at. The 7th & 8th digits are the model year of the vehicle the trans was installed in. The 9th & 10th digits are the two letter code of the transmission & denotes internal parts & valve body calibration of the unit. The 11th digit is the letter "F". This denotes that the trans is a 200-4R {GM decided to add a third letter to the code that will show what transmission family it is, 200C = "B", 200-4R = "F", 700-R4 = "M", etc...}. The last 4 numbers are the serial number of the unit.

​

Thank you for providing this info. I was looking stuff up but had not dug-in for specific info. With this posted, I cleaned the tag off the trans sitting on a moving dolly in my shop:
021 -- 1T85CQ0983

The guy I bought it from said he was swapping a 5.3/4l60e into his Monte SS but never mentioned the year & I didn't think to ask.

 

[Screwz]

The OD difference (on my calculated combo) would yield 350rpm minimum increase (w/o calculating the benefit of lock-up which would add to that number) over a GV set-up. That difference would have impact on the whole reason for wanting an OD trans or GV set-up. I want to drive on the highway w/traffic @ 70-75mph around 2200rpm. Gear Vendors = $2800 + applicable taxes & shipping costs. A decent trans can be built for 3k.

Beyond the cost & final drive variables, the 1st gear ratios/leverage of the OD transmissions are deeper vs. a th400/350. This is where I like the 200-4r vs the 700. I like the combo of the slightly higher than stock first gear (for the tighter rpm split between the 1-2 shift) w/the lower 4th gear.

I have been looking at the same 200r4 or GV the price would be about the same d forget you will need a shorter drive shaft with the GV. A 200r4 is probably the way I’ll go . I want to keep my 411 gears

 

[83MonteCarloSS]

The GV vs 200-4r also depends on how much you do yourself.

I love my 200-4r. I bought 3 of them so I've got 2 spares. 2 were out of Monte Carlo SS's and one is a non performance valve body out of a Caddy. I bought 2 for $150 a piece and one for $125. One of them came with the crossmember I needed. I'm using one of the torque converters from one of the SS transmissions.

I tried the transmission to make sure everything was ok before putting any money into it. After making sure there were no issues I pulled it, put the Trans Go shift kit in that came with the upgraded servo, did some mods to the pump, and replaced some clutches that looked questionable.

It runs awesome. I've got $600 to $700 in it and 2 spares just in case. I had to buy an Edelbrock TV bracket adapter and the frame extension to bolt in the crossmember since my car is an 83 and didn't have provisions for the 200-4r.

Couple pictures after the mods before I put it back in.

 

[Longroof79]

The GV vs 200-4r also depends on how much you do yourself.

I love my 200-4r. I bought 3 of them so I've got 2 spares. 2 were out of Monte Carlo SS's and one is a non performance valve body out of a Caddy. I bought 2 for $150 a piece and one for $125. One of them came with the crossmember I needed. I'm using one of the torque converters from one of the SS transmissions.

I tried the transmission to make sure everything was ok before putting any money into it. After making sure there were no issues I pulled it, put the Trans Go shift kit in that came with the upgraded servo, did some mods to the pump, and replaced some clutches that looked questionable.

It runs awesome. I've got $600 to $700 in it and 2 spares just in case. I had to buy an Edelbrock TV bracket adapter and the frame extension to bolt in the crossmember since my car is an 83 and didn't have provisions for the 200-4r.

Couple pictures after the mods before I put it back in.

How do you like the characteristics of the Trans-go shift kit? I was debating whether to go for the Trans-go kit or the CK kit, both come with their own servos.

 

[83MonteCarloSS]

How do you like the characteristics of the Trans-go shift kit? I was debating whether to go for the Trans-go kit or the CK kit, both come with their own servos.

I like it and have no complaints.

I was debating on the CK kit as well.

You still have to figure out the hole sizes you want to drill in the plate. I compared different suggestions I could find.

 

[Longroof79]

I like it and have no complaints.

I was debating on the CK kit as well.

You still have to figure out the hole sizes you want to drill in the plate. I compared different suggestions I could find.

I see one obvious difference between kits. The CK kit already comes with a separator plate that's ready to go, no drilling involved. Whereas the Trans-go kit supplies drill bits to drill out your existing separator plate, which I assume is the kit that you've used.. https://www.ckperformance.com/View/...-WITH-TURBO-BUICK-INTERMEDIATE-SERVO-ASSEMBLY I suppose it's a matter of preference.

Transgo Reprogramming Kit 200-4R-HD2-A TH 200-4R Chevy,GMC,Buick 1981-On | eBay

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