2019 Challenger Widebooty HellKitty (she's giving me the meatsweats...)

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Considering that it has 778lb/in springs in the rear that is a lot of compression given the change from static ride height. The general rule of thumb with street tires is that you want them to roll over onto the should to make the most of the tire. These tires are (practically) load rated like an SUV tire.

This car hates tires.

that is alot of spring for the rear so I looked it up and now I am confused....what a found was 359 lbs up front with the 778 lbs in the rear which is backwards of the rates we used for circle tack and road course cars so Dodge must have some tricks up their sleeves for the suspension.


I see if I waited 30 seconds I would not have had to look it up.... 🤔
 
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This thing:

a. wide
b. heavy
c. loud
d. fast
e. scary
f. cost more than my House
g. all of the above


Fixed... 😆🤣😀🤨😢😭

-Gonz
 
Considering that it has 778lb/in springs in the rear that is a lot of compression given the change from static ride height. The general rule of thumb with street tires is that you want them to roll over onto the should to make the most of the tire. These tires are (practically) load rated like an SUV tire.

This car hates tires.

My guess is you need a more aggressive alignment and possibly more air pressure in the tires. General rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000#. Apples and oranges, I know, but on my Camaro I run 34-36ish hot pressures square and the sidewalls are pretty stiff on the Toyo RR. I have to wonder if you're trying to compensate with air where you should be looking at sways, springs, alignment, or something else. Get a tire temp gauge (probe type) and have your little minions get temps in the inside, middle, outside of all 4 tires after a run to see what the balance is like and go from there.

.

I have yet to do this correctly on my car. I've checked temps after the yellow in lap and in those conditions they've been spot on.
 
doing a tire temp on the car is useless unless you have the spares to change or adjust sway bars, change spring rates, redistribute static weight and adjust the rear track bar if you have one. My understanding what Mike wants to do is to work with what he has and improve his times as he goes along while lightening the car by removing the interior and running with less fuel. It gets expensive if you really get into it to it cause you need a scales to check the bias and cross and then you need to remove or move weight around to get the set up you want. Then you stock up the trailer with shocks, springs, rear gears, sway bars and tires before you head to the track. Like Mike said he is working oin his skills and that tells me he's out to have fun challenging his own times. I have been many tracks all over Ontario and it was very competitive and alot of work. It takes a team to win races and it more fun the way Mike is doing it with his family involved. No need to add stress to fun event.
 
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My guess is you need a more aggressive alignment and possibly more air pressure in the tires. General rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000#. Apples and oranges, I know, but on my Camaro I run 34-36ish hot pressures square and the sidewalls are pretty stiff on the Toyo RR. I have to wonder if you're trying to compensate with air where you should be looking at sways, springs, alignment, or something else. Get a tire temp gauge (probe type) and have your little minions get temps in the inside, middle, outside of all 4 tires after a run to see what the balance is like and go from there.

.

I have yet to do this correctly on my car. I've checked temps after the yellow in lap and in those conditions they've been spot on.

Oh I am most definitely tuning the tires to the car. I arrived at the 6psi F/R differential by chalking the tires and testing for roll over. 34/28 cold seems to work well (the rears climb to 30-32 after a hard run) in a car that is 56/44 F to R (not that bad). The mods you've suggested would push me in to another class (or two) higher and potentially void my warranty. It is all one big trade off. I think the alignment specs are on the second page? However:

1599589958623.png


I honestly got a winner off the truck with the alignment in this thing. I believe I must be within +/- 1* of the stock figures before I take any points per club rules.

Here is what some other folks have found: https://www.hellcat.org/threads/track-tire-pressure-for-ps4s.234607/

I so want to put a s(l)ick tire on this thing and see what it will hold. But, I need to kill these ones first.
 
doing a tire temp on the car is useless unless you have the spares to change or adjust sway bars, change spring rates, redistribute static weight and adjust the rear track bar if you have one. My understanding what Mike wants to do is to work with what he has and improve his times as he goes along while lightening the car by removing the interior and running with less fuel. It gets expensive if you really get into it to it cause you need a scales to check the bias and cross and then you need to remove or move weight around to get the set up you want. Then you stock up the trailer with shocks, springs, rear gears, sway bars and tires before you head to the track. Like Mike said he is working oin his skills and that tells me he's out to have fun challenging his own times. I have been many tracks all over Ontario and it was very competitive and alot of work. It takes a team to win races and it more fun the way Mike is doing it with his family involved. No need to add stress to fun event.

Thanks for taking such a lawyery (some might call it objective) perspective on this. I appreciate what Supercharged111 is presenting here because it does make for a fun conversation and is applicable to the bigger picture.

My pit crew is a bit young yet.
 
My oldest is only 7 so not old enough to be by herself by the pit lane wall. I definitely wasn't advocating a max effort approach here, but was suggesting making changes between events to balance the car you want it to be. You also need to be careful you're not developing bad habits or tuning around errant driving techniques. This is the reason I sent a lap video to a pro for analysis. That and I want to go faster. Those pros are smart fellers.
 
Considering that it has 778lb/in springs in the rear that is a lot of compression given the change from static ride height. The general rule of thumb with street tires is that you want them to roll over onto the should to make the most of the tire. These tires are (practically) load rated like an SUV tire.

This car hates tires.

Looks great in the curves. What is your best ET at the track?
 
For the scary part you need a pic of the women & children running scared shitless from the car. It's good to put fear into people & scare them. :devilish:
It's not really that scary looking though I mean, turn the halos off, and it's just a white coupe with a fat arse. 😛
 
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