267 4.4 liter issues with carb

[82' monte]

I'm swapping out the rochester 2 barrel carb from my 82' monte carlo has the 267 4.4 liter V8 there are these 2 plugs that go into the 2 barrel carb and i'm not sure what they are for, it seemed to run fine without them plugged i'm wandering are they just for emissions or what i can show pics of the plugs if needed i have a high rise intake manifold that i'm putting on too so i need to know what these plugs do or if i even need them at all also my car doesn't want to idle and missfires when driving and i have no throttle response i was thinking that my timing is off but i had someone change out the timing chain and gears and get the timing all rite then i was told it's the electric choke not letting the motor get gas i unplugged the electric choke and it still ran the same any help would be much appreciated.

 

[AlanB]

Not sure where to start on this one. When you say plugs, do you mean electrical connectors? The blue connector on top of the carb is the Mixture Control Solenoid. The MC Solenoid is adjusted by the computer to control how much fuel goes into the engine. The other plug on the front of the carb is the Throttle Position Sensor. The computer must be able to read this in order to accurately calculate timing and fuel ratio. Both are critical to proper engine performance. You should leave them plugged in at all times.

If you car idles poorly, misfires, and has no throttle response forget about the high rise manifold. It would be out of place on a 267 anyway.

Plug your choke back in. When you choke is cold it closes the choke butterfly on top of the carb to make the car run rich during warmup. As the car warms up the choke gradually opens. Once the engine is fully warm, the choke should be fully open to allow the carb to flow normally. The choke warms up by way of the electrical signal. If you unplug it the choke will not open and the car will run poorly when warm. That is assuming the choke is working at all. Plug it back in and check for proper operation. When dead cold, open the throttle fully once or twice and you should see the choke butterfly close. Start the car, you should see the butterfly open slightly on initial start. As the car warms the butterfly will continue to open more until the car is warmed up.

Lots of things could be causing your drivability issues. I suggest you be more specific about your problems. Are you idle problems when cold, warm, or both? When exactly does it misfire, full throttle, light load, off idle? Keep in mind that 267s are not exactly powerful so what some may consider lack of throttle response may be normal for a 267. Hard to say without feeling it. I'll go out on a limb and say that if your choke is fully open when warm, you are probably running lean. Check for vacuum leaks since there are many vacuum lines that could cause a problem. There are carb adjustments that can be made to compensate but these are not for beginners.

My recommendation is to buy a repair manual for your car and start reading. You need to learn the basics of your car if you want to get everything right. If you're not willing to do this, then step away and find a shop you can trust. Who recommended a timing chain replacement and why?

 

[82' monte]

let me start from the beginning when i first brought the car it spit out a lot white smoke i thought maybe bad head gasket or bad valve stem seals because i put marvel mystery oil and seafoam in gas and brake booster vacum line then drove it down the highway there was white and then blue then after about 30min of driving completly stopped smoking during this whole time the motor was running fine after driving it daily for about a week it just seem to get more sluggish so i thought the timing was off i didn't have a timing light so i took it to my backyard mechanic could be first mistake i did anyways he put a timing light on it and he said the timing would not stay at the right degrees and that my timing chain is loose, so he changed out the timing chain and it is still misfiring so i asked him WTF! and he told me oh it's your electric choke on the carb not letting it get gas anyways he got my car impounded be he left it on the street and ended up giving me these parts and some money i was unsure if they would be right anyway.

when the car is cold it idles rough and dies when it warms up it still idles rough but wont die when i'm driving if i try to open it up it just boggs down or jerks and misfires or as i'm slowing down to a stop light it will die i know the bottom of the motor seems good i know there is no point to really put money into a 267 i can easily come across 350 i just was wanting to get drivability out of the motor until i'm ready to get a 350 basically i'm wandering if what i need is a carb what do i do about the electrical connectors on the 2 barrel because i dont see any electrical plugs on the edelbrock 4 barrel yesterday i pulled off the pvc valve when i put it back on my car started spitting out white/blue smoke more white smoke then i got on the highway and it completly stopped smoking as i was on the highway i tried to open it up and it will pick up speed but it sputters jerks like it's stuck in 3rd gear or something

 

[AlanB]

There are so many things that could cause your problems; Carb, ignition, vacuum leaks, fuel pump, filter, EGR, etc.... Either get a repair manual and start reading, or seek professional help. Keep in mind that if you swap the factory carb for an aftermarket carb you will have to ditch the computer. There are no aftermarket computer controlled carbs available. If you ditch the computer, you must also change the distributor to a vacuum advance model, since the distributor in your car is computer controlled as well. You'll find that lots of guys have done this swap if you search the site.